I could do with some advice. As an insurance replacement policy I have the option of either a Giant TCR Advanced 2 or an Orbea Orca M30.
The last time I was involved in cycling was c.2010 so things have moved on a bit, to say the least, what has happened to thinner is better on tyres?!?!
I have listed what I see as the positives and negatives of each below;
Orca - looks great and has very good reviews, runs clinchers (which I understand) and the new 105 Groupsets. Negatives, wheels and what looks like slightly more relaxed geometry. In the size I would need I would also need to buy a shorter stem and ideally a chain set as the standard for the size is 170mm
Giant - a brand I am aware of from back in the day, no need for additional kit purchases (e.g. stems), but not sure on the whole tubeless thing.
I really don’t know which one to choose as they both seem very evenly matched on paper - can anyone help me choose!
But for the look take the Orbea!!!!! The Orbea just look fantastic! Also great paintjob! One day I will ride one also.
Giant is more a supermarket bike brand (although their bikes are great). The paintjob is quite boring.
In terms of wheels/ tires I personally use only clincher and not tubeless. I don’t like the use of the sealant etc...too messy. I keep my clincher and a spare tube. Some great tires are still not available in tubeless (Vittoria Corsa, Veloflex Corsa).
Giant TCR size S Stack 529 Reach 378 , from https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/tcr-advanced--2
Giant TCR size M Stack 545 Reach 383
Orbea size 51 Stack 547 Reach 375 , from https://www.orbea.com/us-en/bicycles/orca-m30-18
That means Orbea will always need longer stem to compensate for short of reach VS Giant.
The question for Orbea is "is the headtube too tall?".
if not, then it'll be fine and look better with longer stem than on Giant.
If it is too tall, then good luck with -20 degree stem jam all the way on the head tube and knowing your next bike should have shorter headtube.
Safe bet is to just buy Giant size S. you can always make it taller via spacer.
For Giant, i'd start the fitting with -6 or -10 degree stem to match top tube slope.
For Orbea, i'd start from -17 degree right away to make it low without cutting steerer tube so short, despite having horizontal stem on sloping top tube bike mismatch.
Since 2010, Tires get wider and Cranks get shorter.
Some Triathlete go as short as 145-155mm nowadays.
I 5'6.5 use 165mm.
For the tires, watchout for rim width as well, the best performing combo is wide rim + moderately wide tire that is not wider than the rim.
Put very wide tire on narrow rim and you'll feel somewhat sluggish in corner and have bad aerodynamic.
Orbea's wheel 19mm internal, 24mm external and 30mm deep. This is actually nice and moderately wide (but heavy, like all alloy rims that try to be aero). https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/team-30-comp
Giant PR-2 wheelset from Giant looks to be very narrow though, not sure what is the width.
I am leaning towards the Orbea I think.
Looking at the geometry I JUST end up needing a 53cm, which has a 55cm effective top tube and 380mm reach, looking at the set up of my old bike I was on a 54cm and 383mm but with a much lower stack 545 so am thinking of going for the 53cm getting a 110cm stem and see how I go.
Baring in mind the last time i did any serious riding was 8 years ago i am not overly bothered about slamming myself to the ground in terms of the height of the front end - especially as I don't envisage racing again!
Just a quick note:JoshMA87 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 2:15 pmLooking at the geometry I JUST end up needing a 53cm, which has a 55cm effective top tube and 380mm reach, looking at the set up of my old bike I was on a 54cm and 383mm but with a much lower stack 545 so am thinking of going for the 53cm getting a 110cm stem and see how I go.
Effective top tube, even though still a better way to measure bike than real top tube length,
is no longer a great way to measure bike anymore because seat tube angles varies more than old traditional geometry.
Bike with steep seat tube (but compensate by more set back seat post, doing so clear bigger tire around BB more effectively) will have shorter effective top tube length compare to another bike with same reach but slacker seat tube angle (and less set back seat post).
Thus, just ignore effective top tube length and use reach alone.
also, stem are very cheap.
Kalloy Uno stem which is pretty good (but doesn't look expensive or fancy) are around $25.
so don't take consideration what stem they give you, plan to replace it right away after the fitting.
Think of new Orbea size 53 as your previous bike with built in 2cm spacer that you can not remove.
Think of new Orbea size 51 as your previous bike that shrink 1cm in length so you need 1cm longer stem to match the old reach. or maintain same length and enjoy 1cm less stretch out, etc.
Do you remember old stem angle?
-6 degree and -17 degree stem for the same length of ~110mm are around 2cm different in height.
Basically size 53 with -17 degree stem and size 51 with -6 degree stem are around the same height.
With 51 you have room to go lower (with steeper angle stem), with 53 you have room to go higher (with more relax stem).
which one you'll enjoy more is up to you.
I can only just about remember my old bike size so I think the stem angle is going to be a bit of a push.
Tempted with the 51 - I can make it longer with a stem, but you can’t do much to make a bike look shorter I guess
The increase in stack probably works in the Orbea’s favour here as I end up with a shorter frame/reach without the associated stack reduction
As for the weight of wheels - I’ve put on 10kg’s over the last few years, so I will work on that before worrying about a few 100grams on wheels!!!
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