Weight Weenies

Marin wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:46 am

I prefer 10-15mm, I don't really like the look when the stem sits right on the headset.

Same. Aesthetically speaking, 0mm is ugly, as is negative rise relative to horizontal (a la adam hansen), or even with a deviation from parallel with top tube (e.g. strongly sloping TT and horizontal stem)

Hi, all. and Thanks for your comments.
But some buddies seem to a little bit misunderstand my intention.
My bike fitting is already done about an year ago. I placed 15mm spacers under the stem and 5mm spacer above the stem. and I don't have any thought to change that setting, because it fits me well.
I made this post, because I am just curious about your aesthetic criterion.
Well, as for my opinion, I don't like zero spacer below the stem. I like 5mm spacer above the stem, so for the balance, at least, I prefer 5mm or more spacers under the stem. Maybe 5~10mm looks the best, I think.
Anyway, thank you again, all of you. Maybe my original post might not have given enough explanation about my intention, cause I'm not good at English.
I hope I could return with some other useless(?) question, soon. HaHa~

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a little nub above the stem is okay. it mirrors the space below.

this applies to most stem with traditional styling. it doesnt make sense e.g. on enve stem. but generally those are ugly anyway

donald wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:14 am

Many frames of the same size have different head tube sizes. One 54 cm frame can have a head tube of 125 mm., another 54 could have a 150 mm. head tube. This can affect what is the best fit/spacers for a particular person.

Both my bikes are similar size but angles Of tubes are different.
So on one bike I slam a - 12 ,130 on the other which has the shorter head tube I slam -17 ,130,

Cemicar wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 14, 2018 2:31 pm

While I'd second having 0 spacer being the best, you actually have to insert at least one 5mm spacer between your headset and stem. I don't remember the rationale (too much preload onto the head cap or such), but that's what pretty much today's most bike manufacturers say.

IIRC it was stated that it was to reduce the load on the top bearing when the steerer flexes. Rather than having the rigid stem mashing the top bearing, you at least had a bit of shaft to do the wobbling.

Not sure on the physics, as i've never looked into it, as i have ~10mm on my made to measure frame.

from TDU

good (also the best frame and livery. shame about the spider...)




slammed... looks squished together



velomigucchi wet dream.. s-works...slammed...negative.... uglier than a baboon's behind

Can't help but notice the old style Di2 external junction box. Why aren't they using the handlebar junction box?

Rule #45 // Slam your stem.

A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above. A “slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset.

All questions can be answered here. If it can't, it's not worth asking.

For aesthetics, I am 1 cm spacer below between the stem and headset. And either 0 or 5mm above the stem. Of course I use 1 or 2 or 3 cm below the stem on my bikes and 1 or 2 cm above the stem.

pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:43 pm

Can't help but notice the old style Di2 external junction box. Why aren't they using the handlebar junction box?

Access? Availability? Serviceability?

Four correct answers:

-Slammed below and nothing above (but could be tough on the steerer long term).
-Slammed below and 5mm above
-10mm below and 5mm above.
-Whatever fits the rider best.

IrrelevantD wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:34 pm

Rule #45 // Slam your stem.

A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above. A “slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset.

All questions can be answered here. If it can't, it's not worth asking.

I actually dislike the rules from Velominati as they are quite a joke and mainly made for bikers outside the "traditional bike countries" such as France, Netherland, Belgium, Italy, Spain etc...BUT this time I have to agree with them saying that a ""slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset".

However some biker may have to suffer a little with a slammed stem if their fitness is not the best. Usually not for old people also....

pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:43 pm

Can't help but notice the old style Di2 external junction box. Why aren't they using the handlebar junction box?

I noticed that also

Do they want to save cost or is it better in terms of service??
Definitely not what Shimano would like to see I suppose....

What about someone who has too large of a frame and is able to slam the stem, but is left with a short nubby seat post and like a 90 mm stem to make it fit?

I say it is okay to have 15-20 mm of spacers under the stem as long as the rest of the bicycle is in proportion and you are using at least a 110-120 mm stem. Also, you may compromise the handling of the bicycle if using a stem length of 100 mm or less with certain models.


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fogman wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:35 am

What about someone who has too large of a frame and is able to slam the stem, but is left with a short nubby seat post and like a 90 mm stem to make it fit?

I say it is okay to have 15-20 mm of spacers under the stem as long as the rest of the bicycle is in proportion and you are using at least a 110-120 mm stem. Also, you may compromise the handling of the bicycle if using a stem length of 100 mm or less with certain models.


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RIGHT! Totaly agree

The best (in terms of aesthetics): a slammed stem AND a long stem.

Nothing is more ugly than a short stem or a stem with some spacers or both!

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