TIME XPresso 12 Pedal Modification (by EZO bearings)
Moderator: robbosmans
lightweight is enough:)
lightweight
easy click in and out
good amount of float if you have problems with knees
comparable pedal surface area (good power transfer)
significantly less cleats durability
a little bit more fragile
lightweight
easy click in and out
good amount of float if you have problems with knees
comparable pedal surface area (good power transfer)
significantly less cleats durability
a little bit more fragile
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I've tried a lot of pedals and I mean a lot, but Time are the only ones that seem to have the right float and engagement for me (which is not very much). I really wanted to like Speedplay, but they didn't work out for me.
sorry for the flood and my poor english, how can i wrote you for buy any bearings? I'm a new user in the forum and cant send private messages. Thank your very much.mortirolo wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:42 pmSTART (genuine TIME XPresso 12)
Japanese EZO is world leader of precision miniature bearings, so
EZO MR128-2RS ZZ 8x12x3.5mm (Metric)
http://catalog.ezo-usa.com/item/metric- ... gs/mr128zz
Don't buy steel and/or ceramic, ebay trash!
Bearing = NTN, NSK, SKF, FAG, EZO, WIB...
If You need, I can send EZO bearings for 4USD/piece + 6USD shipping cost worldwide.
small help for opening (threadless point):
arrow direction is closing, opposite direction is opening
NTN 6801-2RS 12x21x5mm
This is an NTN, so don't need replacement.
spoke + plastic bushing:
Lenght:
Diameter:
Don't need any device, only your fingers.
1. Gluing (2 threadless point too)
2. Close "adjusting ring" completely and then (IMPORTANT!) turn back to opposite direction (about 45-90... degree).
Try to find where is the sweet spot, where the pedal run freely.
+4g (6x1-2x1)
The inner diameter of the pedal body is 13mm so using a 12x8 is a loose fit isn't it? But then again I'm running chinese xpresso 12s. It's worth checking out though.
I bought some 13x8 bearings but haven't installed them yet. I think I'll switch to (chinese) speedplay pedals. They have zero float options and are basically just as light. The cleats don't wear out nearly as fast which is annoying with xpresso.
I bought some 13x8 bearings but haven't installed them yet. I think I'll switch to (chinese) speedplay pedals. They have zero float options and are basically just as light. The cleats don't wear out nearly as fast which is annoying with xpresso.
I'm attempting this modification on a fairly old set of Xpresso 12s (from circa 2013) which have developed significant play around the spindle.
Alas, I'm defeated at step 1: I can't get the *&%$# adjusting ring off the pedal body! I *think* I'm turning in the right direction (opposite direction of arrow), but they just won't budge . I'm using plumbing pliers and enough force to have left a few nasty marks on the rings even with 2 layers of old innertube between the jaws and the plastic.
Anyone else have this problem? Any ideas? Are those things glued onto the body in older models? Am I just dumb?
I've ordered the special little wrench off ebay and will try again with that once I get it... But at this point, I'm considering extracting the Ti spindle destructively and transplanting it into one of the lower-tier XPresso models that are still available (assuming I can get *that one* open).
Alas, I'm defeated at step 1: I can't get the *&%$# adjusting ring off the pedal body! I *think* I'm turning in the right direction (opposite direction of arrow), but they just won't budge . I'm using plumbing pliers and enough force to have left a few nasty marks on the rings even with 2 layers of old innertube between the jaws and the plastic.
Anyone else have this problem? Any ideas? Are those things glued onto the body in older models? Am I just dumb?
I've ordered the special little wrench off ebay and will try again with that once I get it... But at this point, I'm considering extracting the Ti spindle destructively and transplanting it into one of the lower-tier XPresso models that are still available (assuming I can get *that one* open).
For anyone else in this boat... I finally received the special wrench for this.
Sandwiched the wrench between pedal and crank, clipped in my shoes for leverage. Sharp blow with a mallet on the wrench while holding the pedal steady with the help of the shoe finally got it open. Doing this on a 60kg tank of a stationary bike that won't move and where I don't particularly care about scuffing the cranks helped.
There was some gunk in the threads - I suspect it was glued on. There is no way I could've opened the pedals with pliers nondestructively.