How much clearance have to need between wheel and tire?
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi, there.
Now im plannig to buy zipp303 V3, soI borrowed that wheel from colleague and installed wheel to my bike.(dogma651)
As you see on the picture, clearance between frame and zipp303 is pretty narrow-almost 3mm- because wheel clearance of my frame(dogma651) is not much wide.
After installation I rode my bike very short time for test-maximum power was under 400watts- and no any problem has occur.
Does any problem is happen if I ride in this status?
How much clearance between wheel and frame is needed as minimum?
Now im plannig to buy zipp303 V3, soI borrowed that wheel from colleague and installed wheel to my bike.(dogma651)
As you see on the picture, clearance between frame and zipp303 is pretty narrow-almost 3mm- because wheel clearance of my frame(dogma651) is not much wide.
After installation I rode my bike very short time for test-maximum power was under 400watts- and no any problem has occur.
Does any problem is happen if I ride in this status?
How much clearance between wheel and frame is needed as minimum?
Last edited by Chans1ee on Sat Jan 06, 2018 3:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Had it been most other wheels I'd probably advise against it but a good condition zipp wheel is probably a good candidate for the job. Keep in mind though that no wheel is completely maintenance free. It only takes one mistake to damage the paintjob. How important is it to you?
I'd say it's ok but it depends on the stiffness of the wheel and the play in your hub and axle. (trueness and dish needs to be very accurate)
A simple test is to put a thumb on the rim and put some pressure sideways. If you can without too much effort get the rim/tire to rub the frame/calipers/brakepads, you need to change something. The weight and power of a rider stresses the wheel sideways a lot.
Because of how a rear wheel is designed, it's less stiff one way than the other. So a centered wheel might not be optimal in this situation.
/a
(I'm not a professional wheelbuilder. Just an amateur .)
I'd say it's ok but it depends on the stiffness of the wheel and the play in your hub and axle. (trueness and dish needs to be very accurate)
A simple test is to put a thumb on the rim and put some pressure sideways. If you can without too much effort get the rim/tire to rub the frame/calipers/brakepads, you need to change something. The weight and power of a rider stresses the wheel sideways a lot.
Because of how a rear wheel is designed, it's less stiff one way than the other. So a centered wheel might not be optimal in this situation.
/a
(I'm not a professional wheelbuilder. Just an amateur .)
Today i checked clearance between wheel and chainstay by ruler and it was 3mm.
That was pretty tight but other dogma651+303 user says It is not big problem, but using 303 with 25C tire makes interference.
Thanks to your kind reply.alcatraz wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:51 amHad it been most other wheels I'd probably advise against it but a good condition zipp wheel is probably a good candidate for the job. Keep in mind though that no wheel is completely maintenance free. It only takes one mistake to damage the paintjob. How important is it to you?
I'd say it's ok but it depends on the stiffness of the wheel and the play in your hub and axle. (trueness and dish needs to be very accurate)
A simple test is to put a thumb on the rim and put some pressure sideways. If you can without too much effort get the rim/tire to rub the frame/calipers/brakepads, you need to change something. The weight and power of a rider stresses the wheel sideways a lot.
Because of how a rear wheel is designed, it's less stiff one way than the other. So a centered wheel might not be optimal in this situation.
/a
(I'm not a professional wheelbuilder. Just an amateur .)
According to your opinion, I put some pressure to side of rim. I dont know 'some pressure' is how much, but considerable pressure(almost 7~8kgf) has needed to contact between rim and frame.
A believe a good rule of thumb is to use your brake pads as a guideline.
Do you get brake rub at a similar or slightly smaller distance?
If your answer is definitely no then I don't see why the wheel should touch. Assuming you don't pick up too much dirt to fill up the gaps.
Pay attention to your skewer tension and that the wheel is always seated properly in the dropouts to ensure it's not rubbing from a simple accidental misalignment.
/a
I had tight clearance between tire and inside chainstays on my Dogma 65.1 when running 25mm tires on 17c internal diameter rims. I placed black electrical tape to protect the paint and to gauge the amount of rub. After a while I checked the tape and there was very minimal to no tire rub evidence on the tape. Definitely did not rub through the tape into paint finish. Also make sure to trim the rubber nibs (hair) if it is a new tire as these tend to “polish” the inside chainstays.
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It's all downhill from here, except for the uphills.
The problem with tyres (such as Conti), is that they actually measure a lot wider on some rims .... therefore, buy a 23 if you want it 25 wide
I'm happy with 25 wide and don't see a need for 28's (I use tubeless) .... I prefer having the tyre width the same as the rim width (I use HED Belgium Plus rims)
I'm happy with 25 wide and don't see a need for 28's (I use tubeless) .... I prefer having the tyre width the same as the rim width (I use HED Belgium Plus rims)
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