Hugi DT240 freehub body pulls right off?
Moderator: robbosmans
everywhere i read, people say to remove the cassette and pull off the freehub body by hand.
or use the cassette for leverage.
i've been working on this thing for the past 1/2 hour and cant get it to budge.
any suggestions?
this hub is from mid 2000s
i've tried inserting a skewer from the NDS and catching an interior lip in the end cap and hammering it out
or use the cassette for leverage.
i've been working on this thing for the past 1/2 hour and cant get it to budge.
any suggestions?
this hub is from mid 2000s
i've tried inserting a skewer from the NDS and catching an interior lip in the end cap and hammering it out
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Take the NDS cap off, its much easier. Then put an 8mm allen key through the axle and them use a hammer to get the DS end cap out. Or at least thats what I do...
hammering the skewer from the NDS worked to pop the DS end cap off. and then the freehub body just popped out.dudemanppl wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2018 5:50 amTake the NDS cap off, its much easier. Then put an 8mm allen key through the axle and them use a hammer to get the DS end cap out. Or at least thats what I do...
then the spacer between the star ratchets and the axle... holy cow. that was a father mocker to remove. maybe i should have gone over the axle with some 600 grit so the spacer could go on a little easer.
oh boy, the NDS end cap was the bitch of the bunch to remove. once i had the DS all disassembled, i had to hammer the axle to get the NDS out.
not sure if this hub was ever serviced since i bought it in the mid 2000
I opted to spend the money on the Park AV-5 hub vise which when mounted in a bench vise, makes end-cap removal a non-event and elminiates the need to bang on expensive or in the OP's case, rare hubs. Also, while probably not a consideration for that generation of hub, when using 12mm or 15mm thru-axle end caps, hammering them out is no longer an option.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
Yeah. I'm at 30,000 miles on the original hubshell bearings on one set of MTB 240s. How? Pull the seals, regrease every 6 months.Catagory6 wrote:when your local shop mechanic tells you "... sealed bearings aren't meant to be serviced. they're meant to be replaced... "
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If bearing is rough it has almost 100% damaged inner races - if you clean and put grease in it i dont think it will go for long time
I think the point is that you can prevent damage in the first place with preventative maintenance.kavitator wrote:If bearing is rough it has almost 100% damaged inner races - if you clean and put grease in it i dont think it will go for long time
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Preventative maint by re-grease sounds good. What is your best tool to pick out the cartridge bearing seal?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
box cutter, and work it from the inner race. i've found it pries out much easier than trying to get it from the outer race.
and if you bend the seal, you can flatten it out between 2 flat surfaces, and a lot of pressure.
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