Weight Weenies

I need to remove a 2013 Veloce Power Torque crankset from a frame I am selling. The Park bearing puller just broke under the strain. What is the best tool? It's an aluminium crankset and I can see that the carbon and aluminium versions require different tools. I'm trying not to spend too much money as I wont be keeping the crankset and will have no further use for the tool.

You need to watch your technique on this. It's important that the centre punch part of the puller doesn't bear straight onto the material of the crank arm cos that's never going to work. Campag sold a little thing to screw into the end of the spindle to take the strain. When I had a PT crank I just unscrewed the fixing bolt a couple of turns and used that to press against. The crank came off without much drama. Of course if yours has been in place for four years it might be well attached to the spindle.

Maybe pour some boiling water over the crank arm before your next attempt? Should somewhat relax the grip of the crank material on the spindle.

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wilwil wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 22, 2017 4:25 pm

I need to remove a 2013 Veloce Power Torque crankset from a frame I am selling. The Park bearing puller just broke under the strain. What is the best tool? It's an aluminium crankset and I can see that the carbon and aluminium versions require different tools. I'm trying not to spend too much money as I wont be keeping the crankset and will have no further use for the tool.

The Park tool (CBP-3) is not very satisfactory - the plasic tie-bar that they use to hold the feet of the puller "together" was never really strong enough for the job.

If you have CBP-3 though, I'd guess you have the card shims and the plug for the end of the BB axle somewhat like the Campag item UT-BB095 and UT-BB090 respectively (UT-BB090 doesn't srew in, in fact, as Miller mentions, it's just got a shoulder to hold it centred).

That being the case, you could buy the Facom U301 flywheel / bearing puller, which is the one that Campagnolo have always recommended (about £45.00 from online tool vendors), which you can of course then keep as it's a general purpose medium sized bearing puller, lifetime warrantied, with a mechanism that pulls the feet "inwards" and you increase the pressure on the jack (which is why it work so well with PT cranks).

An alternative would be the VAR P12600 puller which works on the carbon or the alloy versions and you could sell on with the crankset, if that's what you are doing with it as the new owner may well need it ...

I had to do this approx 1 month ago. I purchased a cheap bearing puller ($30) no dissimilar to this one http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Produc ... 0/SPO69232

I then screwed the hex screw out just a little, put a 20cent coin on top of it and the did the extraction slowly. Worked just fine though the coin was almost pierced by the pressure of the extractor.

Usual disclaimers: this is not the campy recommended method. This method applies the extraction force to the thread and Not the end of the axle as campus plug would and therefore may damage your thread if you are not careful. User discretion is advisable.

It was cheap though (and pretty quick). All the best.

Yes I have the flat campy plug but I had use a socket so the puller could reach. I bought the Park plastic protector for the claws to grip on but this just cracked immediately. Does tha Facom U301 remove UT bearings too? If so it would be well worth buying as my other bikes are UT.

wilwil wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 24, 2017 12:51 pm

Yes I have the flat campy plug but I had use a socket so the puller could reach. I bought the Park plastic protector for the claws to grip on but this just cracked immediately. Does tha Facom U301 remove UT bearings too? If so it would be well worth buying as my other bikes are UT.

I looked at the Facom and the jaws look a little fat to do the job. Compare to the specific bearing puller by Park. It also comes with the bearing installer that you need. Or is this the one you broke? In which case, I'm sorry I mentioned it. I've only used it on UT bearings.

I use the cycles toold for power torque by far the best tools for the job. The park tool set does the job though if used right, maybe you did something wrong. If the tin washer is left behind after the crank bolt is removed the puller won't work if I remember right.

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Ok, I'll give it a try!