Advice on building budget 1x10 or 1x11 groupset
Moderator: robbosmans
I'm in the proess of building up a super budget crit bike with a 1x groupset. I'm only looking at SRAM parts (unless anyone knows some black magic to make Camapag work).
My current thinking is to use a 2x crank with a 50-53t narrow wide fitted on the inner position (apparently this works fine), and a Rival/Force Type 2 mech at the back.
Is this going to work? Is there a better option?
Do I really need a narrow-wide AND clutch mech for road use?
Where can I find a budget 50t+ narrow-wide chainring?
My current thinking is to use a 2x crank with a 50-53t narrow wide fitted on the inner position (apparently this works fine), and a Rival/Force Type 2 mech at the back.
Is this going to work? Is there a better option?
Do I really need a narrow-wide AND clutch mech for road use?
Where can I find a budget 50t+ narrow-wide chainring?
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You don't really need a clutch rear mech - any SRAM derailleur will work, the N/W chainring will keep the chain on just fine.
I used to run MTB 1x without clutch for a while, and I'm running 2 of my 3 1x bikes non-clutch, the 3rd being the gravel bike.
If you want a clutch mech, Rival 1 or GX will work, or any MTB derailleur with "Exact Actuation" -> https://www.sram.com/sram/road/technolo ... -actuation
I used to run MTB 1x without clutch for a while, and I'm running 2 of my 3 1x bikes non-clutch, the 3rd being the gravel bike.
If you want a clutch mech, Rival 1 or GX will work, or any MTB derailleur with "Exact Actuation" -> https://www.sram.com/sram/road/technolo ... -actuation
Fair point, will have to check the frame. I meant the inner of the big ring position. I'm in process of calculating what gearing I'll need but I expect dropping to a smaller ring will be detrimental to the sprint (assuming 12t in the rear, a 48t drops ~1mph at 90RPM over a 50t).
You can get any size you like from Garbaruk - I run his rings. Superstar components and B.O.R. (check bike24.com) have cheap 50t road 1x rings. Wolftooth do larger road rings too.
@morganb is right that the inner position might not work depending on your chainstays.
Why a 12t? Use an 11t cassette and you can run a 46t ring which will be fine except for very fast sprints or steep downhills. I did a hilly TT this year with 46 / 11-30.
I used to spend a lot if time tweaking my gearing on here: http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=39, ... 8&UF2=2135
@morganb is right that the inner position might not work depending on your chainstays.
Why a 12t? Use an 11t cassette and you can run a 46t ring which will be fine except for very fast sprints or steep downhills. I did a hilly TT this year with 46 / 11-30.
I used to spend a lot if time tweaking my gearing on here: http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=39, ... 8&UF2=2135
Superstar were my go-to but list 48t as the largest for a 110BCD currently so will check the other options, thanks.
Good point re: 11t, I chose 12 fairly randomly for the calculation, not thinking that an 11t would allow a slightly smaller ring. I'm hesitant to go below 50 because I tend to favor power and lower RPM over spinning, but I can experiment and see what gear I usually sprint in.
Good point re: 11t, I chose 12 fairly randomly for the calculation, not thinking that an 11t would allow a slightly smaller ring. I'm hesitant to go below 50 because I tend to favor power and lower RPM over spinning, but I can experiment and see what gear I usually sprint in.
Last edited by Devon on Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Not only slightly smaller, it's almost a 10% difference, so 4t smaller on the front!
BTW I have a SRAM 50t N/W ring which I used for a Team TT. I got it cheap 2nd hand. Note that the SRAM rings have a built-in offset which meant it didn't clear my chainstay - I had to run it reversed which worked fine.
BTW I have a SRAM 50t N/W ring which I used for a Team TT. I got it cheap 2nd hand. Note that the SRAM rings have a built-in offset which meant it didn't clear my chainstay - I had to run it reversed which worked fine.
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I've been running a 1x cross set up for years with a basic Rival RD and regular cross chainring. But, I have it set up with an FSA Carbon "bash guard" (not really a bash guard, but it keeps the chain in place) and a K-Edge over the top chain keeper. Combined, the bash guard and K-Edge keep the chain on the chain ring.
Okay so I found a NEW Rival 1 crankset with a 50t ring for less than it would cost to build a custom one. Problem solved providing it fits with the frame.
So current setup will be Rival 1 crank with a regular Rival/Force 22 rear mech, running 50:11-28.
So current setup will be Rival 1 crank with a regular Rival/Force 22 rear mech, running 50:11-28.
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I have an S-works crankset from 2013 with the carbon spider and I'd like to run it 1x for a bit. I was thinking I could throw a bigger chainring on the inner spider position and it would be fairly well lined up. Can't use a 1x ring right? Because of the built in offset for 1x cranks?
And what do I do about chainring bolts? The carbon spider uses proprietary bolts so I'm not sure if I can just throw in any random 1x bolts to work. Should I try putting a small ring on the outside position and run the stock bolts? Or make a spacer to take up the space of the outer ring?
And what do I do about chainring bolts? The carbon spider uses proprietary bolts so I'm not sure if I can just throw in any random 1x bolts to work. Should I try putting a small ring on the outside position and run the stock bolts? Or make a spacer to take up the space of the outer ring?