For this I read - don't have enough experience and/or bike handling skills to know how to brake properly.For all of you hating on disc, stop being trolls! It's entirely personal preference as to what stopping mechanism someone wants to use based on where they live. I personally live in San Francisco where we have some crazy big hills with steep grades and it's often foggy meaning the air is damp. Carbon rim braking is terrifying at times and having to pull hard with four fingers while trying to modulate and dodge things in the road is not fun. Disc brakes remove all of that. I can use one finger and quickly tap as needed. I've PRed on all downhill sections of my normal rides after moving to disc brakes and don't notice an extra 250g when going up hill.
Alright, how to reduce weight for Tarmac Sworks sl6 disc
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Tarmac SL6 & Campag Record EPS https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 0&t=153968
"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen
"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen
We get it.. You don't like or want disc.liam7020 wrote:
For this I read - don't have enough experience and/or bike handling skills to know how to brake properly.
But we do.. Don't need to troll treads just to belittle our choice in equipment.
You obviously have no valid input in these type of treads so kindly stay away.
Happy to see your arguments for any threads that discuss the merits of disc vs rim brakes.. In which this thread is not.
As to the topic at hand..
400g easy from 1kg-ish wheelset.
150g can be lost on a saddle
50g on a bar
50-100g on crankset choice and/or power meter.
Didn't say would be cheap though.
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Which cassette would you go for instead of dura ace ?L3X wrote:I'd just go with DA9170 except for the crank and the cassette. Go with a light pair of wheels (i.e. Leightweights, Bike Ahead Biturbo), cockpit (i.e. THM/MCFK), and crank (i.e. THM) and you end up with a really nice & pretty light bike. Additionally, you're wallet will be a lot lighter as well
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that's what I thought until I switched from SRAM Red + Juintech F1 to Shimano 9170 full hydro di2. Fist the master cylinder cap on the shifter uses plastic thread and it was striped on the first bleed, then the front caliper developed leaks from the piston seal, had to be replaced. Now the right shifter lever would not return after pressed, the return spring looks fine so it must be an issue from the master cylinder.
Boy do I wish to go back to mechanical disk, good old cable never fails