Installing Campy EPS: what do I need?

[Bobbyc123]

Hi All,

Just looking to revive this thread as i'm looking to build up an EPS v3 bike and would love some advice.

Just wondering if it's as easy as plugging everything together, the main bit that i've seen might be tricky is mounting the battery.

I've currently got a colnago v1r EPS V3 that was built for me, and it seems like the battery is just sitting in the seat tube, not entirely sure how it's secured as it's not using the campag cage mount you can buy. Image Attached.

I'm looking to build an EPS V3 Colnago Concept (except installing BB and cranks as i don't have the tools). But the rest seems reasonably straight forward? (i even have the chainring tool to adjust the FD which is a game changer) Do people recommend the seat tube battery install? will i need that BB plastic sleeve?

Any other advice would be great!

Most people avoid the Campy seat tube mounting hardware.

As in, just wrap it so it doesn't bounce around in the seatube and just let it sit in their without securing it?

That seems like the most straight forward install, unless i'm missing something obvious i don't see why it would need to be secured, especially if the spindles have the EPS sleeve protecting.

[Butcher]

I think the worst part [after running the cables inside the frame] is charging the battery. I have yet to screw up that connector but I tell you, with old man eyes, it's still a pain to twist it into alignment and screwing it in. Fortunately, I only do it a few times a year.

[Bobbyc123]

I think the worst part [after running the cables inside the frame] is charging the battery. I have yet to screw up that connector but I tell you, with old man eyes, it's still a pain to twist it into alignment and screwing it in. Fortunately, I only do it a few times a year.

That's definitely something i've already learnt the hard way. First time i went to charge my other bike, mashed the pins.

[Miller]

For battery fitment in the seat post I used the cheap campag rubber thing and it's fine. When you remove the seat post you have dangling wires though and you need to be careful in reinserting the post.

Mounting into the seat tube with the bottle cage bolts is fiddly but surprisingly do-able. It's very neat and remains the best solution in my opinion.

[tomato]

As others have mentioned, the cable guide magnet kit is worth buying.

[Bobbyc123]

I'm also planning on using the superzero handlebars with the dcr internal routing holes so just realised I could hide the junction box inside the stem.

Apart from needing to take the handlebars off every time I charge it, any other issues anyone might foresee?

[Mockenrue]

Hi All,

Just looking to revive this thread as i'm looking to build up an EPS v3 bike and would love some advice.

Just wondering if it's as easy as plugging everything together, the main bit that i've seen might be tricky is mounting the battery.

I've currently got a colnago v1r EPS V3 that was built for me, and it seems like the battery is just sitting in the seat tube, not entirely sure how it's secured as it's not using the campag cage mount you can buy. Image Attached.

I'm looking to build an EPS V3 Colnago Concept (except installing BB and cranks as i don't have the tools). But the rest seems reasonably straight forward? (i even have the chainring tool to adjust the FD which is a game changer) Do people recommend the seat tube battery install? will i need that BB plastic sleeve?

Any other advice would be great!

Yes, plug it together and follow Campy's instructions for zero-setting. Make sure the RD is engaged on the hook, then go directly to zero-setting (don't start playing with it first).
Your V1R is likely using the Campy 27.2 rubber grommet in the seapost. I don't have first hand knowledge of the Concept, but you should be able to get the battery in it and maybe some foam rubber to hold it in. Most people avoid the Campy seat tube mounting hardware.
Yes, you want to use the sleeve to keep the wires off the crank axle. I found a piece of PVC that fit in there for a better seal. The best solution is a Wisbone or Ceramicspeed T45 BB. By sealing the BB, you don't get any contamination from your seat tube.
I used some surgical foam tubing in the down tube to keep the wire from making noise.

I have a Concept with V3 EPS and can confirm that it takes the 27.2mm seat post adapter.

[GS100]

I'm also planning on using the superzero handlebars with the dcr internal routing holes so just realised I could hide the junction box inside the stem.

Apart from needing to take the handlebars off every time I charge it, any other issues anyone might foresee?

I considered doing that with my v2 as internal routing does make it possible and the box is v small in that generation - however it does have an indicator light that you would no longer be able to see - this would be helpful during install and also indicate battery level I think. V3 charges through the interface too. I think someone else has done this without issue though - possibly Butcher. See other threads.

[GS100]

Oh and I also used foam to pack the battery as I could only secure through one bottle cage holes using the old method. I have no issues with rattling. Guide magnet kit is essential. Battery holder tool is not.

[Bobbyc123]

Hi All,

Just looking to revive this thread as i'm looking to build up an EPS v3 bike and would love some advice.

Just wondering if it's as easy as plugging everything together, the main bit that i've seen might be tricky is mounting the battery.

I've currently got a colnago v1r EPS V3 that was built for me, and it seems like the battery is just sitting in the seat tube, not entirely sure how it's secured as it's not using the campag cage mount you can buy. Image Attached.

I'm looking to build an EPS V3 Colnago Concept (except installing BB and cranks as i don't have the tools). But the rest seems reasonably straight forward? (i even have the chainring tool to adjust the FD which is a game changer) Do people recommend the seat tube battery install? will i need that BB plastic sleeve?

Any other advice would be great!

Yes, plug it together and follow Campy's instructions for zero-setting. Make sure the RD is engaged on the hook, then go directly to zero-setting (don't start playing with it first).
Your V1R is likely using the Campy 27.2 rubber grommet in the seapost. I don't have first hand knowledge of the Concept, but you should be able to get the battery in it and maybe some foam rubber to hold it in. Most people avoid the Campy seat tube mounting hardware.
Yes, you want to use the sleeve to keep the wires off the crank axle. I found a piece of PVC that fit in there for a better seal. The best solution is a Wisbone or Ceramicspeed T45 BB. By sealing the BB, you don't get any contamination from your seat tube.
I used some surgical foam tubing in the down tube to keep the wire from making noise.

I have a Concept with V3 EPS and can confirm that it takes the 27.2mm seat post adapter.

Does the cable from the head tube to the bb head down the downtube?

Did you need to wrap it to stop vibration noise too?

[joeyb1000]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DMI-Tube-Foam- ... SwWnFV8bzJ

I threaded the entire down tube wire inside foam tubing. I cut it so that it goes from the BB to the hole in the frame. You need the BB and the fork out to do it.

[Bobbyc123]

Thanks all for the notes. I finished the build and despite it taking about 6hrs fiddling around it was all relatively straight forward.

I did forget the bb sleeve tho but it looks like the cables are away from the spindle so should be fine.

I managed without the magnet kit. The cable routing were pretty straight so just used some old cables to fish out the connectors.

I wrapped the downtube wire in bit of insulation and then used a few loose zip ties for back up. Took it out today and didn't get any rattle.

I've hidden the junction box in the stem which cleans up the cockpit nicely.

It's been mentioned in plenty of other threads but the thing that helped me most was the front mech alignment tool from campy. That is a game changer.

Pretty happy with how it all turned out. Photos to come!

[Butcher]

Great to hear.

[Miller]

Yes, good to hear. I wouldn't like the interface unit to be hidden though, the indicator lights are useful.

[Bobbyc123]

Yes, good to hear. I wouldn't like the interface unit to be hidden though, the indicator lights are useful.

It's been okay so far. I've had to make an FD adjustment on the road and remembering the timings for the mode button seemed easy enough. Charging once a month should keep me out of trouble.

Specs here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=166146