Installing Campy EPS: what do I need?

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TonyM
Posts: 3376
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

Hi,

I am considering upgrading my Campy SR mech. to SR EPS V3 on my 2015 C60 (size 48S).

Here is the list of the parts I need to buy anyway I think:
- SR EPS shifters L/R
- FD SR EPS
- RD SR EPS
- Battery Record EPS Power Unit DTI V3
- EPS V3 Battery Charger
- EPS V3 Interface Unit


But do I need to buy also the following parts for the installation ?


- EPS Bottom bracket sleeve
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Campa ... ng-p38373/
--> Do I need it when I use the Campa SR/R crankset with the UT bottom bracket?

- Cable kit for the EPS Power Unit in the seat post
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Campa ... ng-p31570/

- Campagnolo UT-PU0 Internal Installation Tool for the battery
https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=89365

- Campagnolo Record EPS Cable Guide Magnet Kit - UT-CG010EPS
https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=80482

- Campagnolo EPS cable cutting kit
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Campa ... rd-p56714/

- Campagnolo EPS power unit cable holders:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Campa ... en-p55985/

- Campagnolo Stiffness Increaser for EPS Front Derailleur:
https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=58871

- Campagnolo Chaincatcher for EPS Front Derailleurs:
https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;product=175288
Will my K-Edge still be working with the EPS FD or do I need this Campy chain catcher?

- EPS cables:
Are all the necessary EPS cables included in the parts (shifters, FD, RD, battery, V3 unit) or do I need to buy all the cables separately?





.
Last edited by TonyM on Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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dkrissinger
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 12:56 am

by dkrissinger

I have a 48s C60 with SR EPS and did the install myself. You should be fine with the items on the first list, but I would consider the cable install magnet and an adapter to mount the battery into the seatpost. All the electronic cables are included with the interface, battery, shifters and derailleurs. You wont need any additional cable extensions....there will be excess that you can ziptie and shove down the seat tube. You might want to pick up some shrink wrap tubing to tidy things up around the cockpit. Other than that, you should be set.....

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Miller
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

The EPS bottom bracket sleeve keeps EPS cables away from the rotating BB spindle, if a cable rested against the spindle I suppose over time friction could wear a hole in it. If your cable routing keeps the EPS cables away from the sleeve I'd suggest doing without it because if you ever need to do some follow-up EPS maintenance in the BB area the sleeve is a royal pain.

If you put the battery in the seatpost you'll need that cable kit.

The battery installation tool will be very useful if you do a seat-tube battery installation. I taped a bolt with the correct thread into a bit of bamboo cane instead (moi, cheapskate) and that does the job for me.

Cable guide magnet kit will be good for threading EPS cables through seatstays etc. I taped the EPS cable to a bit of derailleur cable for that.

EPS cable cutting kit, I had to look that one up, it for splitting connectors so not as dramatic as that translation. I use a little bit of thin card to go under one connector tab and a fingernail for the other. But be careful the connector tabs are fragile.

Stiffness increaser you could fit later if deemed necessary.

Chaincatcher, the K-Edge will work but the Campag one is really excellent - if you think you need one at all.

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TonyM
Posts: 3376
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

Thanks for the feedback! :thumbup:

BB sleeve: OK understood, no sleeve if possible.
I have to find a way to attach all EPS cables around the bottom bracket area so that they don't touch the BB itself.

Battery cable: OK on the list now as I would like to have the battery in the seat post.

Battery installation tool: I suppose a DIY would be good indeed as this tool looks quite simple but quite expensive for just a one time use.

Cable guide magnet: OK on my list now.

EPS cable cutting kit:
-> Why would I need it actually? if I want to shorten the cables for example?

Cemicar
Posts: 472
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:40 am

by Cemicar

The BB sleeve is actually bundled in the power unit package, so you shouldn't buy it anyway.

One more thing you may need is the cable of the battery charger.
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... 1000,4,167

However I've been using a standard cable instead of the dedicated one, and no issue so far.

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Mockenrue
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Location: Brexshit Britain. Get me out!

by Mockenrue

I've done two V3 builds with the battery in the seat post and I didn't need any extra cables, just the seat post adapter. The magnetic cable guides (or Park equivalent) are a good idea but I don't remember buying anything else.

joeyb1000
Posts: 488
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:37 pm

by joeyb1000

You need the 31,6 seatpost installation grommet. No battery installation tool. No other battery mounting hardware. No extra cables.
You still want the B.B. sleeve. It’s the best way to keep the cables off the B.B. axle.
I like the FD-SR003 chain catcher. No stiffener is needed.
It’s difficult to get the rear derailleur wire in without the magnet tool. Borrow one if you can. You will only need it once.
I put foam surgical hose around the wire from the B.B. to the headtube to stop the noise over bumps.
Many of us needed a dremel tool to clean out the hole for the interface wire on the C60. A small round file will do.
There is no such thing as shortening the cables.

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Miller
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Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

TonyM wrote:EPS cable cutting kit:
-> Why would I need it actually? if I want to shorten the cables for example?


No no, it doesn't cut the cable! That would be drastic. It's a tool to assist in splitting apart the male/female connection plugs.

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TonyM
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by TonyM

Just to give a quick update on that.

I have just finished upgrading my SR mech to SR EPS V3.
Actually quite surprised that Campy did supply various small pieces that were very useful like the grommets for the cables in the frame, the cables for the brakes in the shifters package, the protection for the bottom bracket in the battery package,....

The installation went very smooth on the C60 (2015). With the use of cable magnet kit all easy.
I have also installed the stiffness increaser but I doubt that it is needed. I have also installed the chain catcher in case.

In terms of optics I used some heat shrink tubes for the EPS cable together with the rear brake cable so that it is nice and clean.
The EPS V3 shifts very nicely (although my mech was also ver good). You just don't have to press hard on the shifter anymore. Just a tap on the button.

Only disappointment is that you cannot select the crankset and cassette in MyCampy currently. It is set to 52-36/11-29 without any possibility to change it Image

Image

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Calnago
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by Calnago

TonyM wrote: Only disappointment is that you cannot select the crankset and cassette in MyCampy currently. It is set to 52-36/11-29 without any possibility to change it Image
Yeah, that bugs me mostly because it makes me wonder what other murkiness lies within and makes me somewhat leery of playing with a bunch of settings simply for the sake of knowing what every little setting is capable of. Don’t want to brick a perfectly functioning system because of a firmware or software glitch somewhere. Have you gone in and played with some different configurations like speed of shifting (fast to slow), force of shifting (Hard, medium, soft, aka “how do you like your eggs), etc. or switched the functions of buttons around? There’s quite a lot you can configure which, quite frankly doesn’t excite me too much. Same as Di2.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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TonyM
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Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

As I first used the Di2 last fall/ winter I did try everything on the Di2 but that was more like playing with it I suppose.
At the end I ended up using the fastest settings etc...and the semi synchro shifting which avoid the cross chain.
Not to forget the really nice feature with the buttons on the top of the shifters which controls the Garmin Edge.

On the EPS I choose the option "race" with hard/ hard etc... and during my first ride yesterday I actually liked it. Quite similar to my SR mech. that I liked.
So so need for me to try the other settings like normal or soft. I don't think I am also going to try all options in my Campy with My Sessions etc....
I just choose the adequate groupset, crankset and cassette in My Garage with the hope that this will be used in MyEPS and that I finally will have the correct gearing. But the gearing did not changed.

Bobbyc123
Posts: 268
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:40 am

by Bobbyc123

Hi All,

Just looking to revive this thread as i'm looking to build up an EPS v3 bike and would love some advice.

Just wondering if it's as easy as plugging everything together, the main bit that i've seen might be tricky is mounting the battery.

I've currently got a colnago v1r EPS V3 that was built for me, and it seems like the battery is just sitting in the seat tube, not entirely sure how it's secured as it's not using the campag cage mount you can buy. Image Attached.

I'm looking to build an EPS V3 Colnago Concept (except installing BB and cranks as i don't have the tools). But the rest seems reasonably straight forward? (i even have the chainring tool to adjust the FD which is a game changer) Do people recommend the seat tube battery install? will i need that BB plastic sleeve?

Any other advice would be great!
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Miller
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

I had an EPS V2 bike where I ended up just leaving the power unit sitting in the seat tube. It was fine. For v3 it got easier and people tend to put the pencil-like power unit in the seat post.

Assembly is as easy as carefully plugging things together. Pay attention to plug orientation. Watch the campag videos especially for zero setting.

Doing the Crank is easy, get hold of a big 10mm hex key.

joeyb1000
Posts: 488
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:37 pm

by joeyb1000

Bobbyc123 wrote:
Mon Apr 12, 2021 5:37 pm
Hi All,

Just looking to revive this thread as i'm looking to build up an EPS v3 bike and would love some advice.

Just wondering if it's as easy as plugging everything together, the main bit that i've seen might be tricky is mounting the battery.

I've currently got a colnago v1r EPS V3 that was built for me, and it seems like the battery is just sitting in the seat tube, not entirely sure how it's secured as it's not using the campag cage mount you can buy. Image Attached.

I'm looking to build an EPS V3 Colnago Concept (except installing BB and cranks as i don't have the tools). But the rest seems reasonably straight forward? (i even have the chainring tool to adjust the FD which is a game changer) Do people recommend the seat tube battery install? will i need that BB plastic sleeve?

Any other advice would be great!
Yes, plug it together and follow Campy's instructions for zero-setting. Make sure the RD is engaged on the hook, then go directly to zero-setting (don't start playing with it first).
Your V1R is likely using the Campy 27.2 rubber grommet in the seapost. I don't have first hand knowledge of the Concept, but you should be able to get the battery in it and maybe some foam rubber to hold it in. Most people avoid the Campy seat tube mounting hardware.
Yes, you want to use the sleeve to keep the wires off the crank axle. I found a piece of PVC that fit in there for a better seal. The best solution is a Wisbone or Ceramicspeed T45 BB. By sealing the BB, you don't get any contamination from your seat tube.
I used some surgical foam tubing in the down tube to keep the wire from making noise.

Bobbyc123
Posts: 268
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:40 am

by Bobbyc123

Miller wrote:
Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:13 pm
I had an EPS V2 bike where I ended up just leaving the power unit sitting in the seat tube. It was fine. For v3 it got easier and people tend to put the pencil-like power unit in the seat post.

Assembly is as easy as carefully plugging things together. Pay attention to plug orientation. Watch the campag videos especially for zero setting.

Doing the Crank is easy, get hold of a big 10mm hex key.
Thanks!

Re the cranks, the bike came to me with shimano bearings in the Colnago BB cups, so i'll need workshop tools to get those out, fit the new cups, campy cups, and install cranks etc.

Re the battery, either seat tube or post, should i be buying one of those additional adapters to secure it?

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