Quick release recommendation
Moderator: robbosmans
Never heard anything unreliable about Dura Ace QR. Go get it.
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
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prendrefeu wrote:I no longer see the need for quick release skewers unless you are actually in a race where seconds make a difference or strict-rules group ride scenario.
Bolt-on skewers are often lighter and more secure.
How much should i torque that down?
With QR (i am used to that), I can get a good feel on what's too lose or too tight.
- prendrefeu
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Go by feel, you'll know when you have it too tight, just like you would know for a quick release.
As another person commented: the bolt-on skewers are sleeker. Sleeker = more aero. They're also lighter. And more secure.
WTF (where W = why) anyone would need a QR skewer in non-race or strict-group-ride scenarios is surprising. You really aren't in a rush to change a flat in reality, and you aren't in a rush when you are taking the wheel on or off for transport. If you think you're in a rush where a few seconds make a difference for some random reason, you may need to really re-evaluate how you interpret time and presence.
Also, bolt-on skewers can get really, really aero if you want them to:
http://www.shop.view-speed.com/View-Spe ... 900-S4.htm
(I do not use these, FYI, just noting how sleek bolt on skewers can get)
As another person commented: the bolt-on skewers are sleeker. Sleeker = more aero. They're also lighter. And more secure.
WTF (where W = why) anyone would need a QR skewer in non-race or strict-group-ride scenarios is surprising. You really aren't in a rush to change a flat in reality, and you aren't in a rush when you are taking the wheel on or off for transport. If you think you're in a rush where a few seconds make a difference for some random reason, you may need to really re-evaluate how you interpret time and presence.
Also, bolt-on skewers can get really, really aero if you want them to:
http://www.shop.view-speed.com/View-Spe ... 900-S4.htm
(I do not use these, FYI, just noting how sleek bolt on skewers can get)
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Are there any downsides to bolt on skewers? Someone earlier on mentioned it might stress the frame?
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- prendrefeu
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How the heck would it stress the frame any more than a quick release also with the same tension?
That does not make any sense.
Just don't over tighten it. Just like you wouldn't over tighten a quick release skewer.
I mean... really... this should be obvious, no?
That does not make any sense.
Just don't over tighten it. Just like you wouldn't over tighten a quick release skewer.
I mean... really... this should be obvious, no?
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Yeah I know what you mean... It didn't make sense to me either...prendrefeu wrote:How the heck would it stress the frame any more than a quick release also with the same tension?
That does not make any sense.
Just don't over tighten it. Just like you wouldn't over tighten a quick release skewer.
I mean... really... this should be obvious, no?
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Been there, when every gram did matter. I was using 27g bolt ons for quite while.
Having only one bike 3 sets of wheels, turbo trainer and few punctures from time to time, it is just not practical. Now using Extralite Aliens 3 55g and new Zipp QR (very good) around 70g as my memory serves me well and KCNC Ti on my mtb rig.
Having only one bike 3 sets of wheels, turbo trainer and few punctures from time to time, it is just not practical. Now using Extralite Aliens 3 55g and new Zipp QR (very good) around 70g as my memory serves me well and KCNC Ti on my mtb rig.
I've never considered bolt on skewers before. What are some examples of affordable good quality lightweight bolt on on skewers? Are they all reliable? What do I need to consider when buying a pair?
I have a pair of eBay lightweight titanium quick release skewers and have found that they just don't clamp hard enough which led to the loss of paint on the inside of my chain stays. They even have brass washers. I thought I'd keep them just for hill climb races but now I'm wondering if bolt on skewers might be the way to go for short races where weight is paramount.
D
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I have a pair of eBay lightweight titanium quick release skewers and have found that they just don't clamp hard enough which led to the loss of paint on the inside of my chain stays. They even have brass washers. I thought I'd keep them just for hill climb races but now I'm wondering if bolt on skewers might be the way to go for short races where weight is paramount.
D
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prendrefeu wrote:How the heck would it stress the frame any more than a quick release also with the same tension?
That does not make any sense.
Just don't over tighten it. Just like you wouldn't over tighten a quick release skewer.
I mean... really... this should be obvious, no?
Always heard an internal cam QR skewer could develop far more clamping force than the bolted skewer, and that the resulting axle compression helped prevent bent or broken axles.
- prendrefeu
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Ok, so then why are skewers on professional track bicycles not QR? Those sprinters certainly generate more power and force on their equipment, no?
Those are (a form of) bolt on skewers, certainly not using any CAM action in their generation of inward clamping force.
(before anyone states "it's because the hubs are designed that way!" - yes, and track hubs can also be designed to take hollow axles allowing for separate skewers - the concept is essentially the same)
To say that more force would prevent a broken axle is ludicrous.
How much force do you need? The same amount of ideal tightness exists on both the QR and the bolt-on skewer. If you think that having it tighter is a good thing you'll be binding the frame in and tightening against the hub too much.
As for the hassle of changing wheels - sure, if that was an issue for you, okay?
Those are (a form of) bolt on skewers, certainly not using any CAM action in their generation of inward clamping force.
(before anyone states "it's because the hubs are designed that way!" - yes, and track hubs can also be designed to take hollow axles allowing for separate skewers - the concept is essentially the same)
To say that more force would prevent a broken axle is ludicrous.
How much force do you need? The same amount of ideal tightness exists on both the QR and the bolt-on skewer. If you think that having it tighter is a good thing you'll be binding the frame in and tightening against the hub too much.
As for the hassle of changing wheels - sure, if that was an issue for you, okay?
Last edited by prendrefeu on Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Yup. Bolt up skewers you end up winding the shaft up instead of generating endload, especially when they get a bit older, and not as smooth/lubricated between the cups/bolts and thread.bremerradkurier wrote:Always heard an internal cam QR skewer could develop far more clamping force than the bolted skewer
Unlikely. Unless the shaft was some sort of ultra exotic alloy and a *very* tight fit.and that the resulting axle compression helped prevent bent or broken axles.
No they aren't bolt up skewers, They are either nuts on the end of a 10mm axle (usually steel) or M6(?) bolts threaded directly into the end of the axle. Not one 120mm long nut/bolt. So your threaded interface is immediately the other side of the drop out, not one at each end of the axle. So no flex, stretch or wind up.prendrefeu wrote:Ok, so then why are skewers on professional track bicycles not QR? Those sprinters certainly generate more power and force on their equipment, no?
Those are (a form of) bolt on skewers, certainly not using any CAM action in their generation of inward clamping force.
They also tend to use bloody big spanners to do them up.
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The one thing I like about QR over bolt on is the ease of pulling off the front wheel to put the bike on the roof rack.
One thing I have to be cautious of with my track bike is that when I am moving it around, it is not uncommon for me to tighten the bolts down by hand just to get the wheel on as I roll into the track. I have to make sure I then fully tighten as necessary. The rear is less of a concern as the chain and track ends will keep it on the bike, and I will know very quickly if I didn't tighten properly. Also, my track bike uses 15mm nuts, which requires another wrench - I keep a second one in the trunk of my car.
I do race on the track with a front Road wheel on a bolt-on skewer. It requires a 5mm allen wrench to bolt it down. On the road bike, I don't know how much I would like using the mini tool I carry to remove it in case of a flat, but that is a minor concern.
One thing I have to be cautious of with my track bike is that when I am moving it around, it is not uncommon for me to tighten the bolts down by hand just to get the wheel on as I roll into the track. I have to make sure I then fully tighten as necessary. The rear is less of a concern as the chain and track ends will keep it on the bike, and I will know very quickly if I didn't tighten properly. Also, my track bike uses 15mm nuts, which requires another wrench - I keep a second one in the trunk of my car.
I do race on the track with a front Road wheel on a bolt-on skewer. It requires a 5mm allen wrench to bolt it down. On the road bike, I don't know how much I would like using the mini tool I carry to remove it in case of a flat, but that is a minor concern.
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I'm using the J&L eBay ones right now, 27g and it has a M5 bolt end. I've used Tune Skylines for more than a year with no trouble as well, only changed it out due to a change in colour scheme. The Tune ones saves 10g more and I'll love to get back to them if I find them for cheap on eBay, but the former has the advantage of using a common allen key which I would bring anyway.
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