Pacenti SL23 cracked, now what?

[ergott]

duplicate

[ergott]

Looks like I can't reuse the spokes, they ends are not even showing at the head of the nipples so they will be too short.

Unless you get an asymmetrical rim the Forza will work with the same spokes. 1mm less spoke:nipple engagement isn't significant.

It is significant if the current spokes aren't even engaging the heads of the nipples! Seriously people.

[alcatraz]

If you use brass nipples you can get away with 1mm shorter spokes but since this is ww's I'd rather recommend alloy nipples and spokes that go into the head of the nipples.

You could also go up one size in nipples and extend the threads 2mm. Alloy has 12/14/16. Brass should have some choices too although I haven't checked.

/a

[ergott]

No. Longer nipples don't magically make the threads engage the head of the nipple. The correct spoke length does. The strength of a nipple whether aluminium or brass is in the head. Not having the spoke thread in means broken nipples.



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[alcatraz]

Nipple heads break from fatigue. Brass doesn't suffer nearly as fast as alloy does.

It's not a solution. It's a compromise.

Drive side spokes are the ones to pop first. Those are the ones you gotta worry about.

/a

[ergott]

I've seen enough nipples pop from spokes being too short.

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[Mtn2]

Hi, I have the usual problem, a set of sl23's with a crack to the rear drive side. Has anybody heard of any issues with cracking to the front rim? Searched net but found nothing. Reason I ask is I am considering changing the rear to a Forza maybe, and leaving the front as it is if there are no issues. If it's a case the fronts are cracking too, may consider changing both, but rather not if not required.

If shipping costs aren't an issue I'd just replace one at a time.

Thanks Ergott and others for the replies.

To be clear, I have no intention in attempting to use the old spokes, they will be new.

On the subject of the rims. As I said, I am going to get the rear replaced as it is cracked. As for the front, as it exists it is 100% serviceable, no issues.

My enquiry is this:

1. I have not myself come across any situations where users have reported cracking to the front rim. Every report I read appears the same, crack to one or more rear drive side spoke drilling. Is this situation the case? Is the sl23 proving to be strong enough to handle the stresses in the front wheel.

2. Money is not the concern here. That said I do not want to scrap a serviceable front rim for no reason. However, if there is evidence that the fronts are cracking too, then I will happily change the front rim at the same time as the rear, just to save problems later.

Question to experts in the know: Are front rims cracking too, or is it that, in your experience, the problem is isolated to just the rear rim?

[ergott]

I didn't see any fronts crack. Maybe buy pair and have the front rim on hand for future replacement.

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[Cervelolite]

I'm on HED Belgium Plus - the finish quality is superb! Had pacentis before and love these more

[Mtn2]

I'm on HED Belgium Plus - the finish quality is superb! Had pacentis before and love these more

I would be on those too if I could afford them

[bm0p700f]

Every time I have rebuilt a sl23 with a Forza new spokes are needed. The forza has a thicker spoke nipple bed.

The he'd Belgium is lovely but tubeless tyres don't seem to ick into place with it.

Madcow is the Easton any better in this regard.

[bm0p700f]

I have never had a front sl23 crack either. I have warrantied slit of them. My own two sets of v1 rims have not cracked though. I run them with tubeless tyres which drops the tension alot. Maybe that has helped or perhaps they crack next week.

[Svetty]

The original Pacenti rims cracked due to the spokes bed being a wee bit thin. It is the rim design that is the problem so a front could crack although it is less likely than a DS rear.
Malcolm's point about tubeless lowering spoke tensions is interesting.

[Toby]

The R90SL is a fantastic rim. They come from the same factory as the Hed and are the same stellar quality. They're just a little lighter and a little less expensive than the hed plus and unlike the Hed the decals are easy to remove on the Eastons. As for 20 hole, they are hard to find since that's not a standard sku that Easton offers. We had Easton custom make them for us. We also introduced our friends at Wheelbuilder in SoCal to them so he also carries the 20h, but other than the two of us and some independent wheel builders that we supply I don't know of anyone who has access to them since they aren't available though normal distribution.

there's not much price difference between the R90SL and the HED Belgium Plus rims .... I opted for the Belgium Plus and am well happy, and they look stunning aswell .... laced to Chris King R45 hubs (ceramic bearing upgrade) and C-Xray spokes .... I am using tubeless tyres.

I have cycled on some poor pothole roads and the wheels are as true as the day I fitted them

All of this is why I've come down to just using (and recommending) the Belgiums for alloy rims: the quality is utterly unmatched, the history is long (with impeccable reliability), the availability is unmatched (easy replacements from a variety of vendors), and while the price is relatively high for alloy rims, it's far less than carbon and the total build price difference isn't great.

[CrossRob]

I had both mine replaced with Kinlin 26t rims after the rear failed. Didn’t need to replace the spokes and just as well at CX-Ray prices.