My bike is very comfortable with this setup, I don't need more:) And the higher the better for rolling resistance. I don't ride gravel.. 6 bars for 28mm tyres is not something extraordinary, is it? I am try going slightly less and try your suggestion but this can not be the reason for sealant leakage, right?
Just checked the Schwalbe site, and any "tyre pressure recommendation" text that includes that little gem would have me clicking elsewhere. It's rubbish. The pressures quoted are all on the high side as well. And if i always took note of min and max tyre pressure on the sidewall, i'd not be able to ride my MTB!hannawald wrote:That's about what Schwalbe recommends for their tyres. I am 81kgs, so a bit more with gear.
My bike is very comfortable with this setup, I don't need more:) And the higher the better for rolling resistance.
It's on the high end of what you'd call normal. I'm heavier than you and run less pressure in smaller tyres with panniers and a rack fitted......hannawald wrote:6 bars for 28mm tyres is not something extraordinary, is it? I am try going slightly less and try your suggestion but this can not be the reason for sealant leakage, right?
FWIW, sealant leakage through the nipple holes could be due to a leak through the rim joint if it's pinned instead of welded, which is essentially a problem with the taping.
maybe it doesn´t matter, i just can´t remember I had these problems on mtb..I changed the tape and paid to my service to do it but it is here again..so I am just asking whether is normal or I should worry..
tyre levers were not needed and it took me approx 8 minutes to fit (keep squeezing/pinching the sidewalls and eventually it will fit easily
then ..... I tried to pump up the tyre but it would not pump as the air was leaking out the sides (I was going to pump it up, then leave it overnight, then add sealant today)
added approx 30ml of Orange sealant, and it sealed and has held air overnight, so I'm happy (a fair bit of sealant leaked out from the sides so I may add a bit more sealant today)
Canyon Endurace AL
Whyte Suffolk Gravel Bike
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I have found some tubeless tyres dont even lock into the bead of hed rims, the loose fit that this rims gives maybe a contributing factor. The irc's though do lock into place.
hannawald wrote:is it normal to have sealant under the tape? I put the tyres away and cleaned everything , but there is sealant under the tape...i read that it´s not good for the aluminium nipples as they can be scratched and it could cause corrosion..
Sometimes I get a little bit of sealant in between layers of tape at the end of my wrap, but no, sealant consistently under the full circumference of the tape means you didn’t wrap tightly enough or press down firmly enough.
I also can’t really see what’s going on in that photo. Do you have a clear orange tape on top of a black layer of tape?
I have discovered 2 potential issues..my rims are 17,5mm inner width and the manufacturer recommends 19mm tape but my tape was 22mm..
The valve hole in the rim is preshaped so the manufacturer recommends conical tubeless valve, but I have american classic tubeless valve, which is not typically conical, but use a rubber seal of 2 different diameters so it is probably fine?
what is recommended: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/sch ... 0mm-442497
what I have: https://amclassic.com/index.php/tubeles ... -pair.html
1) It creates a better seal
2) It prevents sealant from getting under the tape
3) It prevents the tape from shifting at all
I dislike the American Classic and old Orange Seal valves. The valves with the conical stoppers are the best.
TobinHatesYou wrote:I use 25mm tape on 19mm inner width rims. I actually prefer the tape climb up the sides of the rims...
While I would think that running the tape that high would interfere with the proper 'popping' of the tire bead into the groove, it would prevent the tape from rolling back and sticking to the tire bead which I have observed using Gorilla tape on carbon wheels.
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