Disc brake pad compounds - best for road use?
Moderator: robbosmans
The time has come to replace the pads on my TRP Spyre SLCs. I'm looking into different pad types (specifically those offered by SwissStop) and I have a number of choices. After some reading into the benefits of each compound I'm at a bit of a loss, as most advice focuses on mountain bike pads.
Any general advice or scientific knowledge as to which compound is best for road use? I'm thinking specifically the avoidance of heat build-up and brake fade on long/fast descents with high brake usage.
Any general advice or scientific knowledge as to which compound is best for road use? I'm thinking specifically the avoidance of heat build-up and brake fade on long/fast descents with high brake usage.
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I went through my OEM resin pads in about 1000mi. After every ride there was a large amount of brake dust on the front and back of my fork. If you do any sort of real descending, get semi-metallic (Disc E) or full-metallic (Disc S) pads. My sintered pads will probably last >3000 miles.
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I considered the same question but I was looking for maximum stopping power. All my research led me back to the the stock semi metallic pads. Also better for durability.
As for heat build up/fade, the heat created will be a direct consequence of the amount of braking force you apply. The heat can only go two places - into the rotor and into the pad. The difference between pad designs will be insignificant with perhaps the exception of the some of the finned options but I don't believe any of those will fit your Spyres. The choice of rotor may make a real difference. I have settle on Shimano IceTech. Generally bigger and heavier rotors will be better.
As for heat build up/fade, the heat created will be a direct consequence of the amount of braking force you apply. The heat can only go two places - into the rotor and into the pad. The difference between pad designs will be insignificant with perhaps the exception of the some of the finned options but I don't believe any of those will fit your Spyres. The choice of rotor may make a real difference. I have settle on Shimano IceTech. Generally bigger and heavier rotors will be better.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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I rode sintered in my TRP HyRds without issue and with an increase in stopping power.
Mr.Gib wrote:I considered the same question but I was looking for maximum stopping power. All my research led me back to the the stock semi metallic pads. Also better for durability.
As for heat build up/fade, the heat created will be a direct consequence of the amount of braking force you apply. The heat can only go two places - into the rotor and into the pad. The difference between pad designs will be insignificant with perhaps the exception of the some of the finned options but I don't believe any of those will fit your Spyres. The choice of rotor may make a real difference. I have settle on Shimano IceTech. Generally bigger and heavier rotors will be better.
Most logical answer here
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
TobinHatesYou wrote:I went through my OEM resin pads in about 1000mi. After every ride there was a large amount of brake dust on the front and back of my fork. If you do any sort of real descending, get semi-metallic (Disc E) or full-metallic (Disc S) pads. My sintered pads will probably last >3000 miles.
Interesting. I got about 3k miles on my first set of resin pads with lots of aggressive descending. the second set seemed to wear out at about 2k miles. Just put new resin pads in, so will keep track of it.
I tried the metallic pads and they seemed like a performance improvement at first, but then they started squealing like a pig. May have to try them again now that I switched from the Ice Tech rotors
Seems there are only two options for the Shimano 805 calipers?
Decent article:
http://road.cc/content/feature/176649-a ... brake-pads
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TonyM wrote:Anyone with some experience with the Swissstop disc brake pads?
Disc E pads work well in all situations.
my brake pads are mostly consumed by hard braking going fast down hill. Sintered pads for me as resin pads uses up very quickly...
I concur the sintered pads make more noises but i found that if i carefully adjust and center the calipers the noises would be much reduces or sometimes fully eliminated.
I concur the sintered pads make more noises but i found that if i carefully adjust and center the calipers the noises would be much reduces or sometimes fully eliminated.
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
There are 2 compatibles designes of metalic pads which can be used in TPR Spyre
(and 1 compatible design of resin pads)
shimano pads marked B01S (Y8C998050) - resin - wide
shimano pads marked E01S (Y8FL98010) - metalic - non-wide
non-shimano pads maked B01S - resin - wide
non-shimano pads maked B01S - metalic - wide
non-shimano pads maked E01S - metalic - wide
(and 1 compatible design of resin pads)
shimano pads marked B01S (Y8C998050) - resin - wide
shimano pads marked E01S (Y8FL98010) - metalic - non-wide
non-shimano pads maked B01S - resin - wide
non-shimano pads maked B01S - metalic - wide
non-shimano pads maked E01S - metalic - wide
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Last edited by ooo on Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Resin for me. Silence is priceless Original TRP are fine, SwissStop Disc 15 bit better, but it's not "wunderpad" in comparison. Both stops my fat butt with more than enough power.
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Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
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Front: good quality semi-metallic and a disc with a large area of contact (doesn't matter for stopping power but matter for pad durability) and good heat management quality.
Rear: cheap full-metallic with the lightest disc as possible, still enough to lock the wheel and slow down for a long time.
Rear: cheap full-metallic with the lightest disc as possible, still enough to lock the wheel and slow down for a long time.
TobinHatesYou wrote:TonyM wrote:Anyone with some experience with the Swissstop disc brake pads?
Disc E pads work well in all situations.
Before I switched to full hydraulic on my cross bike, I managed to wear out the resin pads in a single, muddy, icy, 50-minute cyclocross race but I was also using super-light, highly vented rotors. The next year, while not racing, had a similar issue following a week of rainy gravel riding along the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal, so switched to Shimano Ice-Tech 6-bolt rotors and SwissStop Exotherm pads and did not have to replace the pads again before the swap to full hydraulic (~1700 miles). Unfortunately, Swiss Stop recently announced a recall/cease and desist for all models of the Exotherm pads.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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The E (ebike) pads use the same compound as the Exotherms and have not been recalled.
TobinHatesYou wrote:The E (ebike) pads use the same compound as the Exotherms (...).
Good to know that the "Disc E compound" is used in the "E" as well as in the "EXOTherm"
As I am looking for brake pads for the use in the wet I should most probably look at the "Disc RS compound", right?
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