ENVE SES 4.5 with ENVE hub => brake rub

[nycebo]

Slightly off topic, how does the carbon enve hubs compare to DT240 and CK r45 for enve wheels (3.4 or 4.5)? Is it worth the upgrade and how easy is their maintanence?

Not even remotely worth the upgrade but it's worth the bling. Candidly, I'd rather have the CK ceramic option if you were going to spray cash. However, this is weight weenies so what price perfection?

[refthimos]

Enve stopped producing their carbon hubs. If you go to the website, sure you'll see them listed as a hub option, but click on "Configure and Buy" and you'll see that they are no longer a build option.

Too many complaints of rubbing and then when shops tried to tighten them up, flange failures.

[biwa]

Slightly off topic, how does the carbon enve hubs compare to DT240 and CK r45 for enve wheels (3.4 or 4.5)? Is it worth the upgrade and how easy is their maintanence?

Not even remotely worth the upgrade but it's worth the bling. Candidly, I'd rather have the CK ceramic option if you were going to spray cash. However, this is weight weenies so what price perfection?

Is the CK ceramic a hassle to maintain? I heard you need to service it at least once a year and it requires special/expensive tool which many shops don't have..

[wheelbuilder]

Slightly off topic, how does the carbon enve hubs compare to DT240 and CK r45 for enve wheels (3.4 or 4.5)? Is it worth the upgrade and how easy is their maintanence?

Not even remotely worth the upgrade but it's worth the bling. Candidly, I'd rather have the CK ceramic option if you were going to spray cash. However, this is weight weenies so what price perfection?

Is the CK ceramic a hassle to maintain? I heard you need to service it at least once a year and it requires special/expensive tool which many shops don't have..

Not a hassle at all. It's actually pretty ingenious. A superbly made and blingy injector tool that you use in conjunction with a grease gun. Remove delrin sleeves from BB, insert tool, and slowly push new grease in while simultaneously pushing old grease out. I have three ck bb's.....two press fit and one bsa, and have the tools for both of them. It's like a brand new bottom bracket whenever the mood to completely clean and refresh the grease strikes you. I guess they are a little expensive at around 200.00 bucks plus you need a real grease gun, but totally worth it my opinion. Not too mention that CK bearings are unmatched to start with.

[nycebo]

Is the CK ceramic a hassle to maintain? I heard you need to service it at least once a year and it requires special/expensive tool which many shops don't have..

I wrench my own bike. Just love knowing everything about it. But, I have my favorite LBS mechanic wrench on two things for me always: the hubs and the brake fluid. I can do them, but I prefer someone with vast and regular experience adjusting the most important parts of the bike.

So, to answer your question: is it a hassle? I can't say but I do it for all my bikes.

[bm0p700f]

shops increasing tension to try to stop brake rub. Those shops should not be allowed anywhere near a wheel.

[biwa]

shops increasing tension to try to stop brake rub. Those shops should not be allowed anywhere near a wheel.

Care to elaborate?

[biwa]

Slightly off topic, how does the carbon enve hubs compare to DT240 and CK r45 for enve wheels (3.4 or 4.5)? Is it worth the upgrade and how easy is their maintanence?

Not even remotely worth the upgrade but it's worth the bling. Candidly, I'd rather have the CK ceramic option if you were going to spray cash. However, this is weight weenies so what price perfection?

Is the CK ceramic a hassle to maintain? I heard you need to service it at least once a year and it requires special/expensive tool which many shops don't have..

Not a hassle at all. It's actually pretty ingenious. A superbly made and blingy injector tool that you use in conjunction with a grease gun. Remove delrin sleeves from BB, insert tool, and slowly push new grease in while simultaneously pushing old grease out. I have three ck bb's.....two press fit and one bsa, and have the tools for both of them. It's like a brand new bottom bracket whenever the mood to completely clean and refresh the grease strikes you. I guess they are a little expensive at around 200.00 bucks plus you need a real grease gun, but totally worth it my opinion. Not too mention that CK bearings are unmatched to start with.

Are we talking about the BB or the hubs here? I'm interested in the CK hubs maintenance, and would love to hear your take if you have experiences with them.

[wheelbuilder]

Not even remotely worth the upgrade but it's worth the bling. Candidly, I'd rather have the CK ceramic option if you were going to spray cash. However, this is weight weenies so what price perfection?

Is the CK ceramic a hassle to maintain? I heard you need to service it at least once a year and it requires special/expensive tool which many shops don't have..

Not a hassle at all. It's actually pretty ingenious. A superbly made and blingy injector tool that you use in conjunction with a grease gun. Remove delrin sleeves from BB, insert tool, and slowly push new grease in while simultaneously pushing old grease out. I have three ck bb's.....two press fit and one bsa, and have the tools for both of them. It's like a brand new bottom bracket whenever the mood to completely clean and refresh the grease strikes you. I guess they are a little expensive at around 200.00 bucks plus you need a real grease gun, but totally worth it my opinion. Not too mention that CK bearings are unmatched to start with.

Are we talking about the BB or the hubs here? I'm interested in the CK hubs maintenance, and would love to hear your take if you have experiences with them.

Shit. Sorry man. I thought we were discussing bottom brackets. Not sure why I thought that as the thread is clearly about hubs.....I have one set of hubs, and it requires 2 5mm allens, and depending on your version, a 2.5mm allen. Super easy to remove axle/ring drive and clean/lube. If you do this regularly, the bearings will likely never need replacing which eliminates the need for the specialized tool..........Ive had mine for eight years.

[ergott]

shops increasing tension to try to stop brake rub. Those shops should not be allowed anywhere near a wheel.

Care to elaborate?

This should be sticky it's been linked to so many times.

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunki ... _3449.html

[ergott]

Im 62kg and easily induced brake rub with the rim built to a DT240. IMO a wheel is poorly designed if its easy to induce brake rub - its automatically thrown in the 'do not buy' basket. Enve is crap haha

Don't blame the rim, blame the hub. Chris King version will improve this. DT just doesn't make sense for low spoke count wheels.

[VTR1000SP2]

Interesting - just wonder how many people have experienced issues with their enve carbon rear hub ?

I have a set of 7.8s with carbon hubs and the rear would rub occasionally but this was remedied with a switch to CX-Sprints.

Future enve wheelsets will be either laced more appropriately with the correct spoke for the rear and either a Carbon-Ti or Wheels Mfg hub.


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[titaniumconfidential]

My ENVE 4.5 also rubbed and went out of true as soon as I did my first ride.
Built by enve with CK hubs.
I honestly trust better an experienced single wheel builder than a large company when building wheels.
Wheelbuilding is a game of patience. True it can be done in 30 mins a wheel but to do a real solid job it takes what it takes.

What I also learnt is that a lot of spoke tension QC are done without the tire and tube actually mounted on the wheel.

If the tire is inflated at high PSI some of the spoke tension will inevitably vary and that’s what I think caused your rub.

It’s good to equalize spoke tension without the tire first, but also check again with the tire mounted to see if there is any obvious slack spoke


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[ergott]

It’s good to equalize spoke tension without the tire first, but also check again with the tire mounted to see if there is any obvious slack spoke

Problem is the internal nipples. You have to do so much more work to finish wheel, install rim strip/tire/tube, check, repeat. Another reason I do more work with other carbon rim manufactureres these days.

[BdaGhisallo]

It’s good to equalize spoke tension without the tire first, but also check again with the tire mounted to see if there is any obvious slack spoke

Problem is the internal nipples. You have to do so much more work to finish wheel, install rim strip/tire/tube, check, repeat. Another reason I do more work with other carbon rim manufactureres these days.

Is it safe to assume that this is not much of a problem with tubular rims?