Thanks! We built that S-Works from the frame up to cut cost. I originally ordered a Pro Disc but just couldn’t live with the rainbow hologram. Notice it's UDI2, not DA. I went from a 56” with a 120mm stem on my old bike to a 58” with a 90 on this one. Couldn’t be happier!
2018 S-Works Tarmac Disc
Moderator: robbosmans
I did the same thing! I have a set of 303 NSW rim brake wheels that I’m going to hate to sell, but I have to say I’m very happy with the Rovals. Sticking with my theory on high end bikes going disc quickly though, I figure I’ll never get more for the rim brake wheels than I will now. The loss is still going to sting though.Stendhal wrote: ↑Mon Sep 10, 2018 6:30 amThat's really smart, I wondered about the same thing. Tried a rim brake non-S Works Tarmac today. As expcted, braking = center mount rim < direct mount rim < disc. I think the proximate advantage of either direct mount or disc is wider tire clearance. My current Pinarello F10 with eecycles center mount brakes barely accomodates 25 mm tires (have to open the brakes to fit). Past that, with the extra weight penalty for disc, I'm hesitating on buying disc. Switching to disc also is a much more expensive proposition; I'd not be able to carry over my current eTap levers and very good Roval CLX32 wheels.KevinM wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 1:49 pmI rode both. The rim brakes do work very well. I chose the disc because I believe that when the time comes to buy my next bike, almost everything high end will be disc, and rim brake bikes will be lower value. It’s a gamble, but that’s why I went disc.Stendhal wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 1:34 amJust test rode an S-Works SL6 disk. I was hping to try the SL6 rim but the shop did not have it.
Damn it was light -- 6.6kg with pedals, size 56. QUESTION: for those who have tried or own both, does the rim model ride similarly to the disk model? I had never used disk brakes before, That so much of the weight of the bike was devoted to stopping (as compared to a rim model) was interesting. If the ride is similar (other than that), the same ride with, say, 300 fewer grams would be ike riding a rocket.
BTW, during the test ride, on a downhill, the seat post slipped and then collapsed, as some have reported of the new Tarmac. If and when I buy one, I'll have the shop use the carbon loctite as recommended. I guess it was a good test of the disk brakes.
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I originally was very "Meh, disc" when I decided to convert, did it more for future proofing reasons than anything else. Then I rode it during a stage race that included both a pretty mountainous stage and a really technical crit: Gotta say, they are quite amazing to race on. Not 'necessary' but pretty damn enjoyable for someone who is admittedly a pretty crap technical rider.
Yesterday I put the stock S-Works rim brake on the scale at the shop; 15.3# w/plastic flat pedals.......in a 61cm!
Stendhal wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 1:34 amJust test rode an S-Works SL6 disk. I was hping to try the SL6 rim but the shop did not have it.
Damn it was light -- 6.6kg with pedals, size 56. QUESTION: for those who have tried or own both, does the rim model ride similarly to the disk model? I had never used disk brakes before, That so much of the weight of the bike was devoted to stopping (as compared to a rim model) was interesting. If the ride is similar (other than that), the same ride with, say, 300 fewer grams would be ike riding a rocket.
BTW, during the test ride, on a downhill, the seat post slipped and then collapsed, as some have reported of the new Tarmac. If and when I buy one, I'll have the shop use the carbon loctite as recommended. I guess it was a good test of the disk brakes.
supernice. i think specialized messed up by not developing a wider carbon stem tho.
SW SL stem doesnt the aesthetic of the spacers, the headset top cap or the toptube/headtube
its way too skinny proportionally when looking at it sideways or down on it.
I swapped to a zipp sl speed cuz i couldnt stand the way it looked. chunkier stem looks so much better
SW SL stem doesnt the aesthetic of the spacers, the headset top cap or the toptube/headtube
its way too skinny proportionally when looking at it sideways or down on it.
I swapped to a zipp sl speed cuz i couldnt stand the way it looked. chunkier stem looks so much better
Talk to your dealer. Specialized doesn’t add every model available to the website. In this case they are pushing S-Works frames.sfo423 wrote:Any idea if the pro disc frame will be available? I don’t see it on the website.
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
I will check for the dimensions of the 3 Allen screws. As for the creaks, I had some from the 1st ride. I sent the bike back to the shop, they completely reinstalled the bearings and crankset but the creaks kept coming back. I took the crankset apart myself, applied some grease on the preload washers and tightened carefully and evenly all the 3 Allen screws but only minor improvement. I suspected the creaking noises came from the preload washers and tiny Allen screws (I even replaced them with the previous generation wavewasher/spacers) but this is not the case. My last guess is that the creaking comes from the bearings. Even if they are brandnew (and ridiculously expensive!), this would not be the 1st time new bearings are flawed. KypTorbjorn wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 3:59 amNot to take away the focus from the previous question, but have you guys experienced any bottom bracket creaking, yet? Mine started on the second ride. Shop said to "break it in" for a couple of weeks, then take it to them for adjustments. I would still like to be able to do my own servicing in the future; do anyone know the dimensions of the super tiny allen key of the three bottom bracket screws on the non-drive side?
I installed Enduro Bearings BB30 adpators for Shimano 24mm crankset. Works like a charm. That way you still keep the stick Ceramic Speed bearings.Kayba wrote: ↑Sun Sep 16, 2018 10:29 amI will check for the dimensions of the 3 Allen screws. As for the creaks, I had some from the 1st ride. I sent the bike back to the shop, they completely reinstalled the bearings and crankset but the creaks kept coming back. I took the crankset apart myself, applied some grease on the preload washers and tightened carefully and evenly all the 3 Allen screws but only minor improvement. I suspected the creaking noises came from the preload washers and tiny Allen screws (I even replaced them with the previous generation wavewasher/spacers) but this is not the case. My last guess is that the creaking comes from the bearings. Even if they are brandnew (and ridiculously expensive!), this would not be the 1st time new bearings are flawed. KypTorbjorn wrote: ↑Sun Sep 09, 2018 3:59 amNot to take away the focus from the previous question, but have you guys experienced any bottom bracket creaking, yet? Mine started on the second ride. Shop said to "break it in" for a couple of weeks, then take it to them for adjustments. I would still like to be able to do my own servicing in the future; do anyone know the dimensions of the super tiny allen key of the three bottom bracket screws on the non-drive side?
Could you translate what those squares and triangles mean?Siok wrote:Fogman you’re pretty sharp.... yes bora one wheels with personalized stickers. Rode them today... loving them
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It's all downhill from here, except for the uphills.
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