If the shop can compensate that will be a better choice.nulldreiundreissig wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2019 9:20 amThank you very much! That's pretty much what I feared and a large disappointment for me. But It's goof to know the truth.
Now the question is: What would be an appropriate demand for me? Give him another chance to sent me the right bearings, have him paying for my local shop here order and press in ceramic bearings, demand conpensation or should I even consider resigning from the purchase contract and giving the bike back?
The thing is: I don't need a ceramic bearing, since I just started racing and don't think it makes much of a difference. But I paid for a really expensive frameset, of which a 300 usd BB is a substantial part, and when we discussed the built, we agreed to keep it in, because an upgrade to a bb30 powermeter would only be a matter of months. Now I don't have the right bearings, but a PM I can't mount because of this. And no spare bike, which makes it worse.
2018 S-Works Tarmac Disc
Moderator: robbosmans
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Thanks for all the replies!Helmetbox wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2019 9:22 amIf the shop can compensate that will be a better choice.nulldreiundreissig wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2019 9:20 amThank you very much! That's pretty much what I feared and a large disappointment for me. But It's goof to know the truth.
Now the question is: What would be an appropriate demand for me? Give him another chance to sent me the right bearings, have him paying for my local shop here order and press in ceramic bearings, demand conpensation or should I even consider resigning from the purchase contract and giving the bike back?
The thing is: I don't need a ceramic bearing, since I just started racing and don't think it makes much of a difference. But I paid for a really expensive frameset, of which a 300 usd BB is a substantial part, and when we discussed the built, we agreed to keep it in, because an upgrade to a bb30 powermeter would only be a matter of months. Now I don't have the right bearings, but a PM I can't mount because of this. And no spare bike, which makes it worse.
I have sent him another email, gave him 7 days to respond and offer me a solution which is valid for both of us and mentioned a resignation from the purchase contract as the ultima ratio should we not come to an agreement. I'll keep you posted
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I am wanting to get custom Sworks decals for my 56 frame. The website asks for sizes and whatnot, but rather than measure inaccurately by myself the size of the Sworks logo on the downtube and the "S" on the headtube, I was wondering if somebody had done the hard work for me and maybe has vector versions, or anything that could help.
Hello there,
my question is not related to tarmac 2018 but tarmac sl5 year 2015, the width of bottom bracket shell, 61 or 68 mm wide? i think 68, i dont have tools near me at the moment to take all out and measure.
Also i have Tarmac sl5 frame year 2015 and quarq bb30 pf crankset, what would be good bearing, adapters or other options? ( non gluable) ive googled cbearings are not bad, kogels also are good bur im not sure if i need ceramic bearings.
Have a nice day!
my question is not related to tarmac 2018 but tarmac sl5 year 2015, the width of bottom bracket shell, 61 or 68 mm wide? i think 68, i dont have tools near me at the moment to take all out and measure.
Also i have Tarmac sl5 frame year 2015 and quarq bb30 pf crankset, what would be good bearing, adapters or other options? ( non gluable) ive googled cbearings are not bad, kogels also are good bur im not sure if i need ceramic bearings.
Have a nice day!
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Update: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
Lol... 4k without flats... Must not ride in cities..at least not cities like Sydney.nulldreiundreissig wrote:Update: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
Idiots in my city loves smashing glass/beer bottles on roads and bike paths..
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May i ask what make you pick Rotor Aldhu over FSA K-Force Light?nulldreiundreissig wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:34 amUpdate: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
K-Force Light is, well, lighter and cost the same on power2max website.
I kinda like the look of Rotor crank better though.
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and so did I, that's why I chose the Rotor cranks. I also liked the fact that the Rotor Aldhu stuff is modular.
Zurich is far away from being as big as Sydney, but I have to cross the city for most of my usual training rides. I also only started cycling after I moved here a couple of years ago and cannot compare it to other cities. On the other hand: Being a 61kg guy might help with getting 4000km+ out of a pair turbo cottons, too.
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5k+km this year, it's more about how you ride than where you ride.sychen wrote:Lol... 4k without flats... Must not ride in cities..at least not cities like Sydney.nulldreiundreissig wrote:Update: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
Idiots in my city loves smashing glass/beer bottles on roads and bike paths..
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As special kind of Pauline here in Australia would ask, "Please explain!"Nefarious86 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 7:56 pm5k+km this year, it's more about how you ride than where you ride.sychen wrote:Lol... 4k without flats... Must not ride in cities..at least not cities like Sydney.nulldreiundreissig wrote:Update: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
IMG_0686.jpeg
Idiots in my city loves smashing glass/beer bottles on roads and bike paths..
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oops. this is the disc thread
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Avoiding debris etc, don't hug the gutter, check for crap stuck in your tyres, drag a glove or bottle on your tyre if you ride through trash etc. I ride through the city regularly and it's a piece of cake compared to the 2-3 times a week I'm using the M2 and it's endless trash. I ride a mix of cottons, turbo pro, gp4k and Roubaix 28c. Several thousand km total on cottons and only 1 puncture on them, in a crap filled guttter sneaking past a garbage truck.Gary71 wrote:As special kind of Pauline here in Australia would ask, "Please explain!"Nefarious86 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 7:56 pm5k+km this year, it's more about how you ride than where you ride.sychen wrote:Lol... 4k without flats... Must not ride in cities..at least not cities like Sydney.nulldreiundreissig wrote:Update: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
IMG_0686.jpeg
Idiots in my city loves smashing glass/beer bottles on roads and bike paths..
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Using Tapatalk
The Rotor crank looks great! Was that just a straight fit into the original Tarmac Ceramic BB? I'm considering which BB30 options I have other than Specialized's Sworks crank.Hexsense wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:36 pmMay i ask what make you pick Rotor Aldhu over FSA K-Force Light?nulldreiundreissig wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:34 amUpdate: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
K-Force Light is, well, lighter and cost the same on power2max website.
I kinda like the look of Rotor crank better though.
Any thoughts?
Specialized S-Works Venge Disc | 7.8kg
Rose Backroad | 9kg (Deceased R.I.P.)
Canyon Ultimate CF SL | 7.7kg
https://www.findyourroad.co.uk/
Instagram: @miles_bc
Rose Backroad | 9kg (Deceased R.I.P.)
Canyon Ultimate CF SL | 7.7kg
https://www.findyourroad.co.uk/
Instagram: @miles_bc
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I cannot comment on the fit, since I had some trouble with a bodged built, which at first left me without the ceramic bearings (I wrote about my problem a page or two ago). However: Taking out the Ultegra-crankset, threaded BB and cups, pressing in the ceramic bearings and installing the P2M out from the box took my mechanic about an hour. fittinge PM alone should therefore be a pretty straightforward thing.Miles253 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:24 amThe Rotor crank looks great! Was that just a straight fit into the original Tarmac Ceramic BB? I'm considering which BB30 options I have other than Specialized's Sworks crank.Hexsense wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:36 pmMay i ask what make you pick Rotor Aldhu over FSA K-Force Light?nulldreiundreissig wrote: ↑Thu Jun 06, 2019 10:34 amUpdate: Fresh bar tape and Power2max NGeco with a Rotor Aldhu crank. Next steps will be Rotor chainrings, a lighter chain and casette as well as new turbo cottons. 4000km without flats, but my rear tire starts to look pretty worn out.
K-Force Light is, well, lighter and cost the same on power2max website.
I kinda like the look of Rotor crank better though.
Any thoughts?
The crankset itself comes with adaptors/cups for the right spacing. It looks Ok from my point of view, but I have some pictures attached. Btw: Excuse the dirty bike: I did not have time to clean the bike since wednesday's crit
Just found this discussion. Just built up a S-Works Tarmac SL6 disc that sits at 6.89kg with Hollowgram SISL (not SISL2) cranks, Power2Max power meter, pedals and cages. I'm not a huge fan of the murdered out look so I added some color with blue metallic vinyl. It can be removed at any time. The Hollowgram cranks was a cost saving feature because I came from Supersix Evo HiMod but works very nice. Pretty bad photo. I know.
S-Works
Dura Ace Di2, XTR 9100 rotors (I like the look)
CLX 32
S-Works Power Saddle
Cannondale Hollowgram w Power2Max Eco Power meter 52/36
3t Superergo LTD handlebar
Uno 7 debadged stem, black ti bolts
SRAM red 11-30 cassette
Speedplay Zero SS pedals
S-Works
Dura Ace Di2, XTR 9100 rotors (I like the look)
CLX 32
S-Works Power Saddle
Cannondale Hollowgram w Power2Max Eco Power meter 52/36
3t Superergo LTD handlebar
Uno 7 debadged stem, black ti bolts
SRAM red 11-30 cassette
Speedplay Zero SS pedals
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