BSA Bottom Bracket - grease or anti-seize?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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kidrob
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by kidrob

Beginner question here, sorry. I am installing a SM-BBR60 (Shimano Hollowtech II) atm and now I am highly confused as so many people say so many different things: Use grease or anti-seize when drilling it in (Carbon frame)?

I have Finish Line Ceramic Grease or Tacx Carbon Assembly Compound to choose from. Could also do a mix...

by Weenie


gewichtweenie
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by gewichtweenie

grease. your frame is carbon but the bsa shell is metal. you are threading metal on metal. grease. the anti-seize will just make it gritty :)

Kurets
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by Kurets

The reason for there not being a clear answer is that it doesn't matter much. Both will lubricate the threads and limit water ingress and corrosion in the threads. However, anti-seize will likely do a better job at corrosion protection if you start getting moisture in there. But, if you keep on top of maintaining your bikes you'll most likely replace or refit the BB long before that becomes an issue.

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ms6073
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by ms6073

Before the advent of BB30 and press-fit bottom brackets, it was often suggested to use grease on the threads of the bottom bracket shell, then wrap the threads of the actual bottom bracket with teflon tape (white plumbers tape) to avoid creaking.

Kurets wrote:The reason for there not being a clear answer is that it doesn't matter much.

I was under the impression that grease was fine for Aluminum, Carbon, and steel frames, but it was best to use anti-seize for titanium frames.
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jekyll man
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by jekyll man

Copperslip/ anti-seize.

if you use typical bike grease (lithium based), it will accelerate the galvanic corrosion between the alloy shell and steel, i presume bb cups.
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goodboyr
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by goodboyr

Whatever you do....DO NOT use carbon assembly paste! Any other grease or anti seize is fine.

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kidrob
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by kidrob

oh, wow, that "still" quite some different opinion here... thanks for all the replies so far while I think grease seems to be the save bet

gewichtweenie
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by gewichtweenie

has park tools ever been wrong?

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -section-5

Begin by preparing the threads of the bottom bracket. A thread locker may be used when the frame shell is steel and the cups are either aluminum or steel lockrings. A mild thread locking compound such as Loctite® #242 that is considered “service removable” is preferred. This means that the parts are removable with normal tools, without taking extreme measures. If no thread locking compound is available, grease threads heavily or ASC-1 Anti Seize Compound. For more on thread preparation see Basic Thread Concepts.

If the bottom bracket frame shell is aluminum or titanium, use Park Tool ASC-1 Anti Seize Compound. Even if lockrings are steel, use anti-seize. Anti-seize is available at some bicycle stores, hardware stores, or automotive parts stores. Grease can be used in place of anti-seize, but anti-seize is more durable and provides better lubrication during tightening. Apply this only to the threads.

Plastic lockrings or cups need only grease on the threads. Do not use thread lockers on plastic as the chemical may cause the plastic to become brittle.


in your post you first mentioned anti-seize, and then carbon asembly, which arent the same thing. carbon assembly paste or gel has small gritty particles to aid friction on carbon contacts. both anti-seize and grease are meant for threads

sungod
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by sungod

it's a threaded bb, you use anti-seize as you have static metal-metal contact in an environment likely to get damp/wet

it's preferable that the anti-seize compound is one with a metal filler less noble than the aluminium of the cups (in the event of galvanic corrosion, it's the less noble metal that loses), the park tool one for instance, though you can probably get away with any anti-seize for the likely conditions and life of the cups

Digger90
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by Digger90

Shimano SM-BBR60 cups are aluminium - and the threaded BB shell in your carbon frame is almost certainly aluminium.

So, per Park Tool's recommendation above, use either grease or anti-seize (doesn't matter which) - NOT thread lock.

Kurets
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by Kurets

ms6073 wrote:I was under the impression that grease was fine for Aluminum, Carbon, and steel frames, but it was best to use anti-seize for titanium frames.


You are correct, the aluminium threads on the BB otherwise risk corroding when you have water ingress. This as the dissimilar metals form a galvanic element. I did not mention it as it is a niche consideration. Most often we encounter aluminium-aluminium and aluminium-steel interfaces where grease if sufficient and anti-sieze also works well. You can probably even use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) if you'd want.

sungod
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by sungod

aluminium can also suffer galvanic corrosion vs. carbon fibre (this seems to be behind a number of stuck seat post threads i've seen over the years)

in the op's case, unless the threaded metal insert in the bb shell goes all the way through the shell, there's the opportunity for this to occur, protecting the threaded areas is a no brainer

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

anti seize always unless you want to one day find the BB cups seized. As a mechanic I find this from time to time and is a right ball ache.

glepore
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by glepore

bm0p700f wrote:anti seize always unless you want to one day find the BB cups seized. As a mechanic I find this from time to time and is a right ball ache.

This. Grease is fine for similar metals, but whenever in doubt or with mixed materials, anti seize. Its very messy, use care in applying, but the next wrench will thank you.
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by Weenie


ntb1001
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by ntb1001

Always have used grease...but I'm sure anti-seize is good as well.

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