Loctite 648 BB tips?

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sungod
Posts: 1702
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm

by sungod

stormur wrote:Did you read what you quoted ? NEVER heat it for removal.

Never used press either.

But let assume that I'm wrong, Garmin mechanics are wrong... you're right :mrgreen:


the fact is that bond strength of loctite retaining compounds depends on usage, materials and conditions

your experience based on your usage of 648 and your bike's materials and conditions may well result in a bond weak enough for easy removal, that does not mean that the same is true for all other conditions, only an idiot would claim otherwise

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

ms6073 wrote:
Alexandrumarian wrote:I will soon receive a new PF86 frame and install Campy cups.

While in the past I have advocated for Loctite 609 for PF30/PF86 applications, that was based on bottom bracket shells with alloy inserts. Based on my experience with my 2016 Scott Solace Disc, which has an all carbon bottom bracket shell, I am going to suggest you seriously consider not using any form of Loctite unless absolutely necessary! This past weekend, in order to replace hydraulic brake hose required for DA ST-9170 shifters install, I had to remove a KCNC alloy PF86 assembly which was previously installed used Loctite 609. to To remove the bottom bracket assembly, I first tried my Enduro BRT-003 tool which typically makes easy work of the removal task. Due to the retaining compound, the tool simply pulled the bearings, and so was completely ineffective at removing the cups, so I had to resort to using a Park BBT-90.3 tool and a large hammer to force one side out then the other!

Impact, with the proper tools, is the best way to "break the bond". You can use heat, but you risk softening the resins in the carbon and/or ruining the paint. A proper tool with a good whack is the best way to go about this. I know, it seems a bit barbaric, but it's the least damaging (unless you miss and bash your frame directly instead). The "pullers", will just want to tear away at the carbon fibers gradually, or in the case above, pull out the bearings from the cups themselves. Think about it... the bond is between the outer surface of the cups and the carbon shell and that is the bond you want to break, not the bond between the bearings and the cups.

For sure if you can get away with no Loctite, and the tolerances of the pressfit shell are very good, that is the optimal way to go, but in practice that is very rarely the case. I did not use Loctite with my C60 Threadfit system, but the tolerances are so good that it wasn't necessary. And so far, so good. But that is not the system most PF30 BB's use. Instead, they are carbon shells of varying intolerances, and thus using a retaining compound from the get go is your best insurance against a creak free system down the road.
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flying
Posts: 2861
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

Does anyone make a threaded together BB86 type for Campy?

I know Wheels does not but
I just installed a Wheels Mfg for Shimano BB86 & love it
Great quality no creaks & no need for gap filling bonds etc

Seems like thread together alum shell is a good response to the whole
PF nightmare

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ms6073
Posts: 4289
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

flying wrote:Does anyone make a threaded together BB86 type for Campy?

Sorry, not being familiar with Campy, assuming the outer diameter for the Campy bearings is the same as that of Shimano, why not simply press the Shimano bearings out of the thread-together bottom bracket and press-in the applicable Campy bearings?
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

mchmav
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 12:46 pm

by mchmav

flying wrote:Does anyone make a threaded together BB86 type for Campy?

I know Wheels does not but
I just installed a Wheels Mfg for Shimano BB86 & love it
Great quality no creaks & no need for gap filling bonds etc

Seems like thread together alum shell is a good response to the whole
PF nightmare
Do you mean something like this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142485784827. Alternatively bbinfinite do this https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bb8 ... campagnolo.

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flying
Posts: 2861
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

ms6073 wrote:
flying wrote:Does anyone make a threaded together BB86 type for Campy?

Sorry, not being familiar with Campy, assuming the outer diameter for the Campy bearings is the same as that of Shimano, why not simply press the Shimano bearings out of the thread-together bottom bracket and press-in the applicable Campy bearings?



Interesting thought :thumbup:

Like you though I do not know the specs/diameters

flying
Posts: 2861
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

mchmav wrote:Do you mean something like this


Yes similar
What I use on my PF BB86 Shimano Ultegra Crankset
is this unit from Wheels Mfg
Nice unit & tightens with a 16 notch wrench like Park BBT-29

bb86-out-abec-3.600px_1.jpg


103966-1.jpg

probertsqbe
Posts: 166
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:27 pm

by probertsqbe

Hambini (forum member) is just about to launch a BB86 bottom bracket https://www.hambini.com/

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ms6073
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Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

flying wrote:What I use on my PF BB86 Shimano Ultegra Crankset

I gave the Enduro Torqtite BB86 (same concept as the Wheels Manufacturing BB) a go on my bike, but when paired with an SRM DA 9000 powermeter, the thickness of the drive-side flange made for a less than optimal chainline.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

flying
Posts: 2861
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

ms6073 wrote:I gave the Enduro Torqtite BB86 (same concept as the Wheels Manufacturing BB) a go on my bike, but when paired with an SRM DA 9000 powermeter, the thickness of the drive-side flange made for a less than optimal chainline.


Wow that Powermeter must really add to the Q factor
The flanges of my BB are not even 1/8th in thick

goodboyr
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by goodboyr

That's the gold standard for you....

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