PSA - B.O.R. German Sealant (UPDATE) - DO NOT BUY
Moderator: robbosmans
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UPDATE SUMMARY: Do not buy B.O.R. sealant.
Just a quick note for anyone with experience with this particular sealant.
Today I had a puncture. 100km old Schwalbe Pro One 25c with 30ml of B.O.R. sealant in it. Puncture is small. 1-2mm in the very middle of the tire (see image) and the sealant did not seal, at all. I had the wheel turning and all that did was guarantee a nice spray of sealant across my down tube, for and brake callipers as well as the rest of the pavement. This sealant seems not to work at all. I had just put he sealant in 3 weeks ago so it was not old either.
Now, I will try the glitter route. I repaired the puncture with “anchovies” and it has now sealed. I have placed new sealant in and this time it did seal but it took….30 seconds to do so on what would have been left a very very very small air gap between the anchovy and the tire.
So, either this sealant is pure rubbish (if anyone can confirm, that would be great) or it just needs the glitter treatment to simulate orange seal.
UPDATE:
I got some glitter and some stars like a well known youtube video that suggests using that (not specifically the stars, but the guy used them anyway) to see if I can make the B.O.R. sealant work. It doesn't.
I went out for a ride again today and the anchovy puncture repair I did opened up. I did not install it properly. My bad, but the hole is considerably smaller than the original puncture anyway so I kept rolling to make sure that the sealant would do its job. It didn't.
Not only did it cause a beautiful golden glittery white spray on the streets, it emptied most of the sealant on my downtube, fork and brake calipers as before, leaving my frame with a horrible rubbery coating. It is not difficult to clean the dried, elastic-ish, sealant from the frame, but it gets everywhere and it is incredibly annoying.
For anyone in Germany, where can you buy Orange Seal from? If you don't know but you run tubeless, what sealant have you bought that you have experienced a puncture with that works as it should?
Do yourself a favour. If you are in Germany and you are thinking of buying the B.O.R sealant: don't.
Just a quick note for anyone with experience with this particular sealant.
Today I had a puncture. 100km old Schwalbe Pro One 25c with 30ml of B.O.R. sealant in it. Puncture is small. 1-2mm in the very middle of the tire (see image) and the sealant did not seal, at all. I had the wheel turning and all that did was guarantee a nice spray of sealant across my down tube, for and brake callipers as well as the rest of the pavement. This sealant seems not to work at all. I had just put he sealant in 3 weeks ago so it was not old either.
Now, I will try the glitter route. I repaired the puncture with “anchovies” and it has now sealed. I have placed new sealant in and this time it did seal but it took….30 seconds to do so on what would have been left a very very very small air gap between the anchovy and the tire.
So, either this sealant is pure rubbish (if anyone can confirm, that would be great) or it just needs the glitter treatment to simulate orange seal.
UPDATE:
I got some glitter and some stars like a well known youtube video that suggests using that (not specifically the stars, but the guy used them anyway) to see if I can make the B.O.R. sealant work. It doesn't.
I went out for a ride again today and the anchovy puncture repair I did opened up. I did not install it properly. My bad, but the hole is considerably smaller than the original puncture anyway so I kept rolling to make sure that the sealant would do its job. It didn't.
Not only did it cause a beautiful golden glittery white spray on the streets, it emptied most of the sealant on my downtube, fork and brake calipers as before, leaving my frame with a horrible rubbery coating. It is not difficult to clean the dried, elastic-ish, sealant from the frame, but it gets everywhere and it is incredibly annoying.
For anyone in Germany, where can you buy Orange Seal from? If you don't know but you run tubeless, what sealant have you bought that you have experienced a puncture with that works as it should?
Do yourself a favour. If you are in Germany and you are thinking of buying the B.O.R sealant: don't.
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Updated with PSA and question for those living in Germany.
Road tubeless doesn't work like MTB due to the higher pressures. The sealant is needed for mounting, but not for puncture repair - you have to put a tube in then.
- Frankie - B
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Sealant that is designed for mtb's can't work the same with the higher pressure in a road tire. I have had some success with stans/schwalbe sealant, but recently discovered joes no flats road sealant. This is thicker and works at higher pressure. Their eco sealant works great as well. I suppose because of the bigger particles in it.
When you encounter a 2 mm hole in your tire, best practice is to patch it from the inside of the tire with a normal patch. Let it dry then reinstall. Clean the inside of the tire with a scrubbing sponge before you apply the patch.
When you encounter a 2 mm hole in your tire, best practice is to patch it from the inside of the tire with a normal patch. Let it dry then reinstall. Clean the inside of the tire with a scrubbing sponge before you apply the patch.
If you want to see 'meh' content of me and my bike you can follow my life in pictures here!'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'
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depends on the size, location, nature of puncture, tire pressure, etc
if you have a puncture that the sealant wont seal, just patch the tire from the inside.
had a similar puncture down the centerline of a 25c pro one. if i flex the tire i can see the rubber cords (?) showing. apparently the sealant and its particulates isnt viscous enough to plug it up. stuck a no-glue patch on the inside of the tube (barely even "sanded down" the area) ..... works absolutely fine and been riding it without issue. any potential permeability running along the patch surface then would easily get plugged up by the sealant. net result is the tire loses pressure no more than it did before.
if you have a puncture that the sealant wont seal, just patch the tire from the inside.
had a similar puncture down the centerline of a 25c pro one. if i flex the tire i can see the rubber cords (?) showing. apparently the sealant and its particulates isnt viscous enough to plug it up. stuck a no-glue patch on the inside of the tube (barely even "sanded down" the area) ..... works absolutely fine and been riding it without issue. any potential permeability running along the patch surface then would easily get plugged up by the sealant. net result is the tire loses pressure no more than it did before.
Bondurant wrote:It is supposed to be for puncture repair as well AFAIK, otherwise what's the point in tubeless?
Exactly.
- WinterRider
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Tubeless tyre road side repair.. via The Cycle Clinic.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news ... ide-repair
Well done.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news ... ide-repair
Well done.
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
- WinterRider
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Marin wrote:Bondurant wrote:It is supposed to be for puncture repair as well AFAIK, otherwise what's the point in tubeless?
Exactly.
Hey Marin,
Did you see the clip of Malcolm's per repair.. I posted link. Wonder.. could sealing be somewhat determined on tire quality.. I suspect so.
Thanks,
Jay
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
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This is the first time I read about a difference between MTB and Road sealants. On that note, most of the samples of successful sealing I have seen come with Orange Seal. I managed to find a UK supplier that ships to Germany so I am waiting for that.
I guess it does make sense to distinguish sealant effective prowess with tire pressure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOi4czjB1No
This is not the only video that shows the usefulness of tubeless. On the same note, now that Frankie-B points out the difference between tire pressures, I see why the sealant I am using failed. It did hold about 30psi on my tires so I was able to ride the bike home for 5km. The tire is strong enough that the deformation is not much so you can still ride the bike home and not have to deal with the puncture on the side of the road.
I guess it does make sense to distinguish sealant effective prowess with tire pressure.
Bondurant wrote:It is supposed to be for puncture repair as well AFAIK, otherwise what's the point in tubeless?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOi4czjB1No
This is not the only video that shows the usefulness of tubeless. On the same note, now that Frankie-B points out the difference between tire pressures, I see why the sealant I am using failed. It did hold about 30psi on my tires so I was able to ride the bike home for 5km. The tire is strong enough that the deformation is not much so you can still ride the bike home and not have to deal with the puncture on the side of the road.
The tire chosen matters a lot for road tubeless. I have found that, using Stan's sealant, my Schwalbe Pro One tires would practically never seal. Even for tiny punctures. However, Hutchinson Fusion 5 tires seal just fine with the same puncture. Also the Hutchinson are easier to patch in the event of a huge puncture. I think that the difference is that the Schwalbe has a very thin casing and you can see the threads in the material on the inside on the tire. The Hutchinson has a rubber coating on the inside. This makes patches stick better and it also seals better. The suppleness of the Pro One is supposed to be better than the Hutchinson but I can't really tell any difference.
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Marin wrote:Road tubeless doesn't work like MTB due to the higher pressures. The sealant is needed for mounting, but not for puncture repair - you have to put a tube in then.
Are you just making shit up as you go? Some punctures are definitely tough to seal if you have a ridiculous 110psi in a tubeless tire, but they will still seal eventually, probably before you even lose 5psi for a typical glass cut or goathead.
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djwalker wrote:The tire chosen matters a lot for road tubeless. I have found that, using Stan's sealant, my Schwalbe Pro One tires would practically never seal. Even for tiny punctures. However, Hutchinson Fusion 5 tires seal just fine with the same puncture. Also the Hutchinson are easier to patch in the event of a huge puncture. I think that the difference is that the Schwalbe has a very thin casing and you can see the threads in the material on the inside on the tire. The Hutchinson has a rubber coating on the inside. This makes patches stick better and it also seals better. The suppleness of the Pro One is supposed to be better than the Hutchinson but I can't really tell any difference.
Stop. Using. Stan's.
Orange Seal is better in just about every metric. It's easier to work with, it seals better and it lasts a lot longer before drying up. I'm experimenting with Slime ATR in my rear tire. The liquid latex portion seems promising, though the 'web fibers' might have a clumping issue (not a really big deal.)
- WinterRider
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TobinHatesYou wrote:djwalker wrote:The tire chosen matters a lot for road tubeless. I have found that, using Stan's sealant, my Schwalbe Pro One tires would practically never seal. Even for tiny punctures. However, Hutchinson Fusion 5 tires seal just fine with the same puncture. Also the Hutchinson are easier to patch in the event of a huge puncture. I think that the difference is that the Schwalbe has a very thin casing and you can see the threads in the material on the inside on the tire. The Hutchinson has a rubber coating on the inside. This makes patches stick better and it also seals better. The suppleness of the Pro One is supposed to be better than the Hutchinson but I can't really tell any difference.
Stop. Using. Stan's.
Orange Seal is better in just about every metric. It's easier to work with, it seals better and it lasts a lot longer before drying up. I'm experimenting with Slime ATR in my rear tire. The liquid latex portion seems promising, though the 'web fibers' might have a clumping issue (not a really big deal.)
Methinks the clumping is a big issue. Tried similar product.. the mass of fibers is bovine dung.
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
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WinterRider wrote:Marin wrote:Bondurant wrote:It is supposed to be for puncture repair as well AFAIK, otherwise what's the point in tubeless?
Exactly.
Hey Marin,
Did you see the clip of Malcolm's per repair.. I posted link. Wonder.. could sealing be somewhat determined on tire quality.. I suspect so.
Thanks,
Jay
Just use DynaPlug instead of the tire worms Malcolm Borg used. They are easier to apply and don't need glue they self-vulcanize to the existing rubber on the tire. Yes there is a small metal tip, but it will never come close to hitting your tire bed.