mudguard no clearance
Moderator: robbosmans
I have a Willier Triestina as cummutor. On rainy days my feet are soaking wet, and that's what I want to change by mounting muduards on it.
Unfortunately there is not enough space between the 25mm tire and the frame/brakes.
What fender can I use?
Unfortunately there is not enough space between the 25mm tire and the frame/brakes.
What fender can I use?
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They said they were concerned about wet feet so raceblades certainly won't help.. maybe the long version but not the normal ones
I've never seen a set of fenders that will keep the water from hitting your feet without some MacGyver'ing an extension on the front...
Couple of things... that extension is within 4cm from the ground. Nothing gets thrown at my feet, even the bottom where water can often just start streaming in through the cleat holes.
The other thing is that flap is stiff enough that it won't blow back in the wind, even on a 40mph descent, enough that it interferes with my pedaling on turns or so much that it effectively is not serving it's purpose anymore. I've seen quite a few loosey goosey flaps that just flail around and get blown back so far that they almost act as a guide for the water to your feet.
To the OP: The bike you show in the pics simply does not have enough clearance to mount full coverage fenders under the brakes and fork, either front or back so you are limited to a "split" or "half" fendered arrangement at best, which isn't that great. My guideline for clearance in order to be able to do the install that I have done is a strong 6mm of clearance between the tire and the fork/front brake and rear brake bridge/rear brake. That means if I can't wave a 6mm Allen key lengthwise like a wand between the fork/rear brake bridge and brake calipers around the tire, then there will simply not be enough useable clearance for me to be happy with.
Couple of things... that extension is within 4cm from the ground. Nothing gets thrown at my feet, even the bottom where water can often just start streaming in through the cleat holes.
The other thing is that flap is stiff enough that it won't blow back in the wind, even on a 40mph descent, enough that it interferes with my pedaling on turns or so much that it effectively is not serving it's purpose anymore. I've seen quite a few loosey goosey flaps that just flail around and get blown back so far that they almost act as a guide for the water to your feet.
To the OP: The bike you show in the pics simply does not have enough clearance to mount full coverage fenders under the brakes and fork, either front or back so you are limited to a "split" or "half" fendered arrangement at best, which isn't that great. My guideline for clearance in order to be able to do the install that I have done is a strong 6mm of clearance between the tire and the fork/front brake and rear brake bridge/rear brake. That means if I can't wave a 6mm Allen key lengthwise like a wand between the fork/rear brake bridge and brake calipers around the tire, then there will simply not be enough useable clearance for me to be happy with.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
After a Seattle/Pacific Northwest winter with normal Raceblades, I've found that the lack of fin IN FRONT of the caliper is what gets my feet wet, especially turning at low speeds. Because of the rotation of the front wheel, water is kicked up and forward (guided by the fender). Without full fenders that extend far past the front of the caliper, the water shoots up and then back at you. I think when riding in a straight line it just sprays the headtube and caliper itself but if you're leaning the bike it outwardly gets all over your feet.
That said, they are also a bit short as you mentioned without some hackjob extension, though this mostly affects what gets on your drive train and the poor sod behind you.
That said, they are also a bit short as you mentioned without some hackjob extension, though this mostly affects what gets on your drive train and the poor sod behind you.
Yup, definitely like a "rain bike" that you can have a full fender that extends underneath the fork and the brake caliper and beyond so that the back spray doesn't come hitting you in the face...
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
+ 1 to Calnago and bilwit
That said, you might try to mount 23 tires. That might give you just enough clearance to mount Portand Design Works full metal fenders. They are very narrow, especially under the front fork. If not, then MacGyver is the only one who can help. Splitting a pair of Spencer Omega fenders wouldn't be a bad solution. Use a Problem Solver fender nut to mount the rear end to the back side of the fork.
This guy nailed it:
viewtopic.php?t=142434
That said, you might try to mount 23 tires. That might give you just enough clearance to mount Portand Design Works full metal fenders. They are very narrow, especially under the front fork. If not, then MacGyver is the only one who can help. Splitting a pair of Spencer Omega fenders wouldn't be a bad solution. Use a Problem Solver fender nut to mount the rear end to the back side of the fork.
This guy nailed it:
viewtopic.php?t=142434
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The main issue is to extend the back of the fender so it gets to within a couple inches of the ground. I recommend a Buddyflap. It doesn't twist, it stops the rain superbly, it's cheap, it looks good. Enough said.
Raceblades are good but I'd strongly recommend getting the wider versions. They tend to vibrate and slip a bit, so if you have a close fit under them they rub or they don't protect as well as you'd want. Get the bigger ones in a 35 mm size or larger and they do the job very nicely; the wider size also makes them stabler as well. You can also use standard SKS fenders very easily and use plastic-covered stainless P-clamps as mounts at the fork tips. Those are stabler than Raceblades although not as easily removable.
I've ridden in the Northwest for years and never had a serious issue with no fender in front of the fork. However, if you really want something there, you can bend a Blackburn stainless rack support so it bolts to the top of a short section of fender and then rises up and over the front caliper and clamps between the caliper and the front of the fork. It's easy to make and if you really want that spot covered, it'll give you the clearance you need and can integrate cosmetically very nicely with the fender behind the fork.
Raceblades are good but I'd strongly recommend getting the wider versions. They tend to vibrate and slip a bit, so if you have a close fit under them they rub or they don't protect as well as you'd want. Get the bigger ones in a 35 mm size or larger and they do the job very nicely; the wider size also makes them stabler as well. You can also use standard SKS fenders very easily and use plastic-covered stainless P-clamps as mounts at the fork tips. Those are stabler than Raceblades although not as easily removable.
I've ridden in the Northwest for years and never had a serious issue with no fender in front of the fork. However, if you really want something there, you can bend a Blackburn stainless rack support so it bolts to the top of a short section of fender and then rises up and over the front caliper and clamps between the caliper and the front of the fork. It's easy to make and if you really want that spot covered, it'll give you the clearance you need and can integrate cosmetically very nicely with the fender behind the fork.