Ultra Torque L/H thread

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
beanbiken
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by beanbiken

About to commence my new build with a Campy SR crank set. The spindle is held with the L/H threaded bolt. I have both a 3/8 & 1/2 inch torque wrenches but I don't believe either will measure L/H CCW torque. What is the consensuses, do I need to find a specific TW or just do it up tight is good enough? Perhaps with thread locker.......... Never done Campy before but decided I wanted to try it out........ help please

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AJS914
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by AJS914

I've always done it by hand without a torque wrench and have never had one come loose. I also grease the bolt.

by Weenie


beanbiken
Posts: 514
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

Thanks, hoped that woyuld be the way to go and just don't get crazy tightening it up.......... this will be an interesting adventure [for me that is] Hope I like Campy after all this

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Ahhh, coffee & carbon

AJS914
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by AJS914

It's a pretty stout bolt. It's not like you could strip it with hand tools. I use the 10mm key on an extension with a standard 3/8" ratchet. I feel like I tighten it just like I would have done a crank bolt back in the day before there was a torque spec for everything.

You could always tighten some other bolt to the recommended torque so that you get a feel for the amount of pressure to use.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

50Nm is quite a lot. I always do it with both wheels on and firmly planted on the ground versus trying to crank 50Nm while held in a stand. I do not grease the bolt but I do lightly grease both sides of the washer at the bolt head. I do use loctite 222 (purple) on the threads of the bolt.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

beanbiken
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Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

ok, i'd be worried about pulling/galling the thread in the spindle being titanium........
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joejack951
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Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE

by joejack951

If you have a clicker type torque wrench with a reversible ratchet it will work for left hand threads.

beanbiken
Posts: 514
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

I also have 2 reversible/clicker wrenches but I don't believe they "measure" torque CCW...........

BB
Ahhh, coffee & carbon

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

SR is titanium is it not? Do you want anti-seize on the bolt instead of grease? I heard a mechanic mention something about that once (but I just have record so I don't know for sure what the correct prep for SR is). Worth a check though before you install.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

joejack951
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Location: Wilmington, DE

by joejack951

beanbiken wrote:I also have 2 reversible/clicker wrenches but I don't believe they "measure" torque CCW...........

BB


Try it. You might be surprised to find that they do.

beanbiken
Posts: 514
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

joejack951 wrote:
beanbiken wrote:I also have 2 reversible/clicker wrenches but I don't believe they "measure" torque CCW...........

BB


Try it. You might be surprised to find that they do.


Will do........
Ahhh, coffee & carbon

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Mr.Gib wrote:SR is titanium is it not? Do you want anti-seize on the bolt instead of grease? I heard a mechanic mention something about that once (but I just have record so I don't know for sure what the correct prep for SR is). Worth a check though before you install.
That's a good point and it is one of the reasons I use Loctite 222, to have something between the two titanium surfaces plus it secures it just a little bit more as well. Campy's instructions specifically say that to prevent long term oxidation, to use only Loctite 222 on this bolt. If you're going to use something other than Loctite 222, I would use a copper based antieseize before grease. But really it probably isn't going to make a whole lot of difference unless you left it in there unserviced for years and through some good wet winters. The only thing with using Loctite 222 is that once removed it is a good idea to take an awl to the threads to really remove any residual dried Loctite before reinstalling again.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

beanbiken
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

Zinc base anti seize ok?? but that no reaction with Ti?
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MJB
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Location: bottom edge of Australia

by MJB

I've fitted half a dozen UT cups+cranks to my bikes in the past using both grease and Loctite 222 methods on the hirth bolt. I've also used a TR to 40Nm and alternatively a small hand tool T extension fitted to the Campy BB cup tool to fit the cups to the bikes and torqued by hand as tight as . I've never had a squeak or a loose thread anywhere on any UT stuff.

I love UT...........

by Weenie


joejack951
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Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE

by joejack951

beanbiken wrote:Zinc base anti seize ok?? but that no reaction with Ti?


I bought a Stronglight Fission crankset with titanium axle back in the day. It came with copper anti-sieze so I am inclined to think zinc-based anti-sieze is a no-no. Any auto parts store ought to have some small packets of the copper stuff available as it is supplied that way for replacement oxygen sensors. I may even have an extra one I could send you.

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