First few rides were great, silent.
Then, initially only when out of the saddle, an irritating click every revolution. I removed the cranks, re-greased the bearings, reassembled, and silent again for maybe 200km.
The click returned after about 100km, so I removed the cranks again, re-greased bearing-cup interface again, silence again for another 100km and then it returned. It's worse when out of the saddle but also when seated and pedalling under load.
So now I'm having to remove and re-grease the inside of the cups every couple of rides because the click is driving me mad. The bearings are super smooth when I remove the cranks but I've noticed a bit of wear on the anodising on the inside of the drive side cup. I've tried different types of grease, but none have eliminated the click for long. The cranks are torqued correctly, wave washer and spring clip fitted as they should be.
The noise is definitely caused by movement of the bearing in the cup. I can occasionally simulate the noise by pushing the non-drive crank towards the bottom bracket. I removed the spring temporarily to ensure that it wasn't the cause, but the noise was still there.
I'm 70kg, and would say I have a pretty smooth pedal action.
Any remedies for this click?
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
If the clip were correctly installed you would not be able to move the crank laterally more than a small fraction of a mm. Undetectable on the bikes I have.
Are the holes for the clip worn?
I can only see one other possibility.
Have the bearings ever been removed from the cranks?
ie is this a new crankset? or used with an unknown history?
How about the cups?
How many drivers does a buggy have?
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
Colnago actually recommends a dry install of the cups and i think that would be perfectly fine as well given how good and round both the Threadfit cups and the Campy cups are. So, I would either do that or use the Morgan Blue stuff I mentioned. Basically it's a high adhesion anti seize kind of product. Good luck.
Edit: All the stuff here also assumes that you're dead sure the click is coming from the BB area. Sure sounds like it is, but I think we've all been fooled before when finding some obnoxioius little thing elsewhere that was overlooked. And if you used something like Loctite 609 as the retaining compound, be sure to scrape all the residue off the inside of the Threadfit cups before you install new ones. And Exacto knife is good for this.
The bearings in the cups are not tight, they can slide in quite easily by hand, perfect fit. Only way the anodization of the cups would wear off is from repeated movement between the outer race of the bearing and the inside of the cups but under normal circumstances (cups properly aligned with each other) the grease should prevent that.c60rider wrote:...It's normal for the anodising on the inside of the bearing cup to have some marks on it as that's normally the bearing being squeezed into the cup as it's supposed to be tight.
Calnago wrote:The bearings in the cups are not tight, they can slide in quite easily by hand, perfect fit. Only way the anodization of the cups would wear off is from repeated movement between the outer race of the bearing and the inside of the cups but under normal circumstances (cups properly aligned with each other) the grease should prevent that.c60rider wrote:...It's normal for the anodising on the inside of the bearing cup to have some marks on it as that's normally the bearing being squeezed into the cup as it's supposed to be tight.
I'll certainly bow to greater knowledge than me on this as my experience is based on 2009 super record, 2011 record and brand new P2M NG. The cups in the super record and record are different materials and the marks as such on the super record are from getting the cranks in and out. They've never been slide in easy by hand and when trying to remove them they've always had to be wrestled out even when one side has come out so not just down to the hirth joint locked together. I remove them at least annually. The record cups have been far worse and the drive side has marked up quite a lot. Whether this has been caused by me having to wrestle them in and out it's possible. Both are fitted into threaded bbs and both remain incredibly smooth and silent once in. They've got 1000s of miles on them so pretty impressive overall. Historically I've only ever used a thin oil in between the cups and the outer of the bearings so I'm interested to see how the morgan blue works now I've just started using that.
Also, I'd definitely use a thicker grease between the outer races of the bearings and the inside of the cups, like the consistency of the grease that comes already applied to the insides of new cups. Oil is just too thin and would quickly get washed away and that may be why the scoring is occurring.
Also, when I mention Morgan Blue Aquaproof Paste, that does NOT go anywhere near the bearings. It goes in the interface between the cups and the frame (in the case of a pressfit application) and if you're using a threaded BB it would go on the threads of the cup and the frame shell, just as a copper based antiseize would.
Since you said you were using a threaded BB, has it been faced properly to your knowledge? That alone can make a big difference in just how perfectly those two cups, once torqued up, will be aligned with each other.
@Calnago, do you think its easier to remove the press fit cups with a headset cup removal tool while the thread fit cups are still in the frame, or remove the thread fit cups first before removing the press fit cups? Also, do you think a very thin layer of aqua proof on the inside of the bearing cup would prevent further noises at the bearing - cup interface, particularly as the noise seems to occur when the thinner types of grease have been squeezed out?
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