They run really smooth (i spray in bearings olny WD40 before race)
But when i watch FrictionFacts results there can be around 1-2W between the best and worst bearings
Now i will replace with same bearings (EZO steel rubber sealed) - looks like water came in bearings and on soma places there is damaged place where balls run
do you think there is more than 2watts difference or just in head (when rotate crankset backwards it really spins better than with original bearings)
unless there's a different specific definition from ff, 'worst' could be poor tolerance really crap bearings, that are 1.9w worse than 'typical' bearings from 99% of sources, with 'best' being just <= 0.1w less than 'typical'
unless the environment is really clean, bearings without seals are going to collect dust, pollen, and other airborne contaminants, if not cleaned every time maybe it could soon give more drag than seals
if the frame isn't sealed, especially at the seat post, water/dirt can get down into the bb shell, with no inner seals the bearings can easily suffer
then there's individual variation in bearing shell tolerance and the effect that has on drag once pressed into the bb shell (the bearing will very slightly distort), and of course resistance under no/low load may not match behaviour under load
with such marginal effects, unless you know and control all parameters i don't think you can predict effect on drag
I remove seals also from bearings in rear wheels (disc wheel) - it is taiwan and freehub looks like novatec.
Bearings are NBK (trash for road bikes) but here they works well (15mm axle and big bearing with big balls)
I will try again remove inner seals and put oil for chain (dry lube)
For one year it must be good
I have a teflon spray lube used for industrial purposes that litterally "dries" by itself and forms a very light film over the bearings.
I would also clean and respray the bearings once every few rides if you want this method to be efficient.
Adda decent graphite waxed chain and it should make a smooth drivetrain .
LouisN wrote:I have a teflon spray lube used for industrial purposes that literally "dries" by itself and forms a very light film over the bearings.
I wonder if that spray might be decent for chain lube.. outside surfaces? I use a penetrant for pins.
rear disc wheel after one year of removed seals and grease - it is like new. Laso freehub gets only light oil
Chain is cleaned - ridden around 200km - and lubricated with finishLine ceramic wax lube - when it dry out little dry lube will be added.
I leave rear derailiur wheels like they are (shimano Ultegra 6800 and Duraace chain)
Compared to my new road bike with shimano 105 praxis works crankset - it runs much smoother
It will be 24 hours team race this weekend - and nice weather.
I will relube chain couple times (and before that clean it)
Chain lubes and lubes with solid additives, will need to be replaced weekly if you are seeking marginal gains. A number of issues can arise. The additives will fall out of suspension. The carrier oils will pool leaving naked bearing which can corrode, develope scum interacting with airborne particles.
Old fashioned is best, plain light oil for marginal gains or grease.
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