The obvious weight points to reduce ?
Moderator: robbosmans
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Just switched to 3T ARX LTD carbon stem from the 3T ARX Team alloy and instantly i can feel that my ride feel more "carpet" when going through road bumps or potholes. Many often said that alloy stem is better as a material for stem but i think i am a supporter for going with carbon stem after trying it out myself.
addictR1 wrote:what's the weight of the contact SLR stem?
As stated in the web,
Giant Contact SLR Stem is an ultra-light, full composite construction stem with 31.8mm clamp diameter and a huge 46mm clamping area, featuring titanium hardware. Includes shim for 28.6mm steerer tube.
Ultra-light full-composite construction
31.8mm diameter with shim for 28.6mm steerer tube
31.8mm clamp diameter with 46mm handlebar clamping area
Flip-flop +/-8° adjustable rise
Recessed top cap and semi-integrated first spacer for increased steerer tube interface
Titanium hardware
Weights: 120g - 155g
fairwheelbikes tested that alloy stem, which is one of the stiffest non-sprinter stems in their test, it would be interesting to compare their numbers on deflection with peoples perceptions of material across more stems, because 3T might just make a slightly softer carbon stem, or they may not and it may absorb vibrations more in the carbon version for the same stiffness.Look595 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 22, 2017 12:52 amJust switched to 3T ARX LTD carbon stem from the 3T ARX Team alloy and instantly i can feel that my ride feel more "carpet" when going through road bumps or potholes. Many often said that alloy stem is better as a material for stem but i think i am a supporter for going with carbon stem after trying it out myself.
http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews- ... em-review/
Think off the bike first.
Weight on your body will exhast you much quicker than on the bike so.....
-Make sure your BMI is under 25, and ideally 20-23 range.
-Some helmets are quite heavy, you can easily save 50g to 100g.
-Light carbon soled cycle shoes with a titanium bolt kit.
On the bike.
-OEM saddles are usually heavy some 300g. You can easily get a saddle under 150g.
-OEM Seatposts are also often heavy, here go carbon because it's a bit more comfortable.
-Tires and tubes wheels and tubes are somewhere you can save kgs. But you need to match your weight/terrain/cost/purpose to you. There is no single best choice here. I use higher-end alloy climbing rims (1300g) with thick durable tires (Panaracer Race D Evo 3) and lighter butyl tubes. I have sometimes rough and always debris covered roads and punctures are a constant plague if I try to go lighter or faster with tires. I also bikepack and have limited finances, tubular, tubeless and latex tubes don't really work for me.
-Ti skewers can easily see 50g or more saving.
-SRAM Force or Red groupset with Shimano Dura-Ace brakes and pedals, for IMHO lightest and most reliable.
Weight on your body will exhast you much quicker than on the bike so.....
-Make sure your BMI is under 25, and ideally 20-23 range.
-Some helmets are quite heavy, you can easily save 50g to 100g.
-Light carbon soled cycle shoes with a titanium bolt kit.
On the bike.
-OEM saddles are usually heavy some 300g. You can easily get a saddle under 150g.
-OEM Seatposts are also often heavy, here go carbon because it's a bit more comfortable.
-Tires and tubes wheels and tubes are somewhere you can save kgs. But you need to match your weight/terrain/cost/purpose to you. There is no single best choice here. I use higher-end alloy climbing rims (1300g) with thick durable tires (Panaracer Race D Evo 3) and lighter butyl tubes. I have sometimes rough and always debris covered roads and punctures are a constant plague if I try to go lighter or faster with tires. I also bikepack and have limited finances, tubular, tubeless and latex tubes don't really work for me.
-Ti skewers can easily see 50g or more saving.
-SRAM Force or Red groupset with Shimano Dura-Ace brakes and pedals, for IMHO lightest and most reliable.