Best frame for short bike racer

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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LouisN
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

I'm looking for the best frame geometry possible for a short racer.
5'3" (1,60m) tall women.
28.25" (72cm) inseam (short legs).
Lowest front end possible. The road bike would also be used on TT's with add-on extensions.
Following the "race what you can afford to replace" statement, framesets in the $1000. range are targeted.
Thanks for your suggestions :beerchug:
I've targeted the Cannondale CAAD12 (even the CAAD10) but wondering wich size has the less drawbacks possible between size 44 (short top tube, angles) and 48 ( higher front end , saddle position (aft)...
Louis :)
Last edited by LouisN on Mon Jul 10, 2017 4:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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LouisN
Posts: 2360
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

Seems like the CAAD12 is not a good choice.
Only available in size 48, seat tube lenght 53.5 . EDIT: Found it. They're available like the CAAD10 in women's sizes :oops:
Best choice seems like the CAAD10 in size 48 "standard". Women's 44's top tube is SHORT !! And angles, I really don't know...

I'm beginning to look at the Trek Emonda ALR in size 47. Size 50....I don't like the "high" front end ( 130 mm head tube lenght :o !!) .

Used frames choices welcomed also :) ...

Louis :)
Last edited by LouisN on Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


shimmeD
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by shimmeD

Argon18? Fuji?
Less is more.

kulivontot
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Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm

by kulivontot

Here's the deal with smaller frames, especially if the limiting factor is reach, not seat tube length. To reduce to tube length you have to either bring the seattube-toptube junction forward or the toptube-headtube junction backwards. Changing the former is somewhat counter productive as it also increases the seattube angle which increases the effective reach since you need more saddle setback to have the same horizontal saddle-bottom bracket distance. On the front end it typically means moving the front wheel closer to the downtube, increasing toe overlap or changing the fork angle, effecting handling. There's a physical limit on changing either of these dimensions, so for very short riders sometimes the only realistic option is moving to smaller wheel diameters like 650c (which is what canyon has started doing for some of their women's frames). Frames with a rear wheel cutout can actually relax some of these constraints by shortening the top tube without changing seat tube angle (canyon aeroad and Cervelo S5 are good examples)
Tl;dr
Look at stack and reach instead of top tube / seat tube length. Consider ludicrously short stems or smaller wheels if you really cannot fit a stock frame geometry.

fromtrektocolnago
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Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:15 pm

by fromtrektocolnago

what about colnago. my c-59 came in both 42 and 45cm sloping versions. i believe these sizes carry throughout colnago's portfolio
Colnago C-59 (Dura Ace)
Firefly(Ultegra)
Trek 5200(ultegra)

mike
Resident Pro
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 9:42 pm

by mike

I would go with a sloping frame. colnago makes excellent small frames. I would try the smallest sloping frame and see how it works for you.

danbjpa
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by danbjpa

Scott Addict Xxs. I saw a Team Issue 2014 at ebay for $1300 in USA


Enviado do meu iPhone usando Tapatalk

sanrensho
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by sanrensho

I'm 165 cm/78 cm inseam and would ride the 48 cm in CAAD12. I would recommend the 44 cm for your rider.

shimmeD
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by shimmeD

The OP asked for low stack but didn't mention reach however based on short legs, reach will not be short.
CAAD12 has not so low stack, more than 51cm.
My 49cm Look381i has 504mm stack and 385mm reach: I've found that new off-the-rack frames are generally higher in stack and shorter reach. So it's no mean feat to find an off-the-rack frame with low stack.
Less is more.

jimmerjohn123
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Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:19 pm

by jimmerjohn123

get a Fuji transonic on closeout. They have size XXS (46cm). In the US, for example: http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/w ... 1___000000

shimmeD
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by shimmeD

Yes, Fuji also have an alloy frame for $649 http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road ... lite-frame
Less is more.

wingguy
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by wingguy

Argon-18 Nitrogen and Gallium are LOW at the front in tiny people sizes. They do have comparatively long reach (to reduce toe overlap without screwing up the headtube angle/handling) but for a good rider who's racing this shouldn't be an issue - especially if you were looking at longer frames anyway.

The XS Nitrogen also looks really slick, which helps :wink:

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LouisN
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Location: Canada

by LouisN

Yeah, funny how you look for something around the globe, when you have it right in your backyard :lol: .

The best thing about Argon18 is they carry a large spectrum of frame sizes, for most of their frames. Unlike Canyon for example, their XXS is only available with the Aeroad or the high end Ultimates :x
The top end Argon18 frames are too pricey for me ( and with Astana and Aru's visibility in the TDF prices are not going to drop...) but I might take a look at the Gallium in XXS (at my LBS), wich is still a super frame and has a great road race geometry with very low front end :thumbup: .

Louis :)

shimmeD
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by shimmeD

The Gallium in XXS has super steep seat-tube at 75.5. In XS its a degree shallower and 5mm higher stack plus half a degree more head tube angle; you won't find another frame with 82mm head-tube (except the XXS of course!). If you can put up with the 5mm higher I think the XS is a better bet. What I also like about Argon18 is the 75mm bb drop, which is what you want esp if teaming with 165mm cranks.
Less is more.

topflightpro
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Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:35 am

by topflightpro

The other notable thing about Argon's is that they use a screw-in system to add length to the headtube. My 56 Gallium Pro has a 12.9cm headtube, but I can lengthen it to 13.9, 14.4, or 15.4 via two screw in extenders. Supposedly the extenders do not add substantial flex.

by Weenie


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