Mysterious Di2 battery drain

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

Hardware:

- Ultegra 6870 Di2.
- BT-DN110 battery
- EW-WU101 D-Fly
- newest firmware for all components

Problem / timeline

- Sunday 14/5 dead battery (pretty sure I had at least 60% left the day before)
- Recharged when I got home
- Dead a few days later
- Ordered a new battery, gave it a full charge
- Looked OK at first
- Dead after 3 days of idling
- Gave it a full charge and unplugged FD
- Still 100% after 48 hrs
- Plugged in the FD again, still 100% after 48 hrs
- Did a 190 km/6 hr ride last Sunday. Started with 100%, came home with 100%
- Now (Tuesday) battery is 60%
- Couple of hours later 40%
- Plugged out RD
- Today still 40%

Any suggestions.... Did not read fault codes since I don't have the right interface. Will visit the LBS tomorrow to do so.
Last edited by havana on Wed May 24, 2017 6:48 am, edited 2 times in total.
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

jeffy
Posts: 1255
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 11:51 pm

by jeffy

are you recharging from a power socket / usb, or the usb outlet from a computer?

I have heard issues that can arise from not recharging from computer.

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

Using a usb outlet that came with my iPhone.

I forgot to mention I sometimes hear a couple of clicks coming from the RD when I wake up the system.

Just came home, lost another 20%. Unplugged the RD. Will check in the morning.
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

goodboyr
Posts: 1390
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Location: Canada

by goodboyr

My suspicion is that your RD is not adjusted correctly and its "between gears". In other words, if the setup is not done correctly, and the shift ends up part way towards the next cog, the RD is constantly trying to make the shift and keep the motor active. Make sure you follow the manual for the rear setup.

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

I think you might be right !
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

SL1
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Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 3:43 pm

by SL1

I've read also it needs to be charged with computer usb port. Not a wall usb adaptor.

Ritxis
Posts: 237
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 3:00 pm
Location: San Sebastian

by Ritxis

goodboyr wrote:My suspicion is that your RD is not adjusted correctly and its "between gears". In other words, if the setup is not done correctly, and the shift ends up part way towards the next cog, the RD is constantly trying to make the shift and keep the motor active. Make sure you follow the manual for the rear setup.


That cannot be the cause, after a few attempts to change, the engine returns the derailleur to the previous position by security

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

Didn't lose power overnight (with RD plugged out) so I do think that's the problem.

Will re-adjust the RD closely following the manual.
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

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sugarkane
in the industry
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Location: SYD
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by sugarkane

Sounds more like a faulty battery
I've replaced more than a few lately

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

I've already replaced the battery.

Question about the manual. What is meant by "until it touches the link" ?

Image
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

SL1
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 3:43 pm

by SL1

The tip of the H screw touches the derailleur stop. Then back it out 1 full turn.

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

Thanks for the confirmation.

Well, this might have been the problem. The L-screw was overtightened.
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

SL1
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 3:43 pm

by SL1

I was speaking about the H screw. That's what i thought you were referring to.

The L should be as close to the derailler stop as possible but not touching. If you backed the L screw out 1 full turn it would probably cause the RD to go into the spokes, so don't do that.

Yes the L screw being overtightened would cause the battery to drain.

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havana
Posts: 352
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:04 pm

by havana

Thanks, I already understood you were talking about the H-screw there.

The funny thing is that the RD stopped making the "click click click" noise after re-adjusting. :thumbup:
Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.

maxxevv
Posts: 1958
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am

by maxxevv

Its a similar thing if you leave the RD on either the two extreme ends and the limit screws are a little too tight.

Batteries drain out within a few days even though it was just charged and used for less than 200km.

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