the rear wheel felt rough when holding by the axle and rotating by hand, so i looked up the dt swiss instructions, and without all the special tools started taking apart the rear hub of my lightweight obermayers, they had c. two years use, a lot of wet rides
turns out most of it just pulls off (the stopping point i reached is the ring nut on the drive side that needs a special tool)
on the nds i popped the bearing seal, all looked ok
pulled off the freehub body, the ratchets were dry/dirty, probably explains the ultra loud freewheel noise, need to remember that for the future - but this wheel was always loud compared to the one it replaced (when lightweight upgraded mine after damaging the front wheel)
ahhh, the bearings inside the fhb are screwed, there's visible rust and when i popped the seals off they're dry/dirty, not good
can't get at the seal on the ds bearing in the wheel itself as that needs the ring nut tool to get access to it, but the axle turns smoothly without the freehub on, the roughness seems to be due to the bearings in the fhb
it's a 190s which seems rarer and waaaaaaaaay more expensive than the 240s, the downside of obermayers i guess
i squished some grease into the fhb bearings and replaced the seals, cleaned and lightly greased the ratchets - probably with grease that's a bit too thick so i will need to revisit that
reassembled and repeated the spin test, feels a long smoother, but i need to fix it properly/replace the fhb
on the plus side, it's demystified the rear hub workings!
On ebay they do sell ceramic bearings for that hub too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-SWISS-190-CE ... 0793882816
Sorry but that's all I can do for you, hopefully someone else will respond with a lot more info.
via google i found an old post on another forum that suggests an internal 'spacer' between the bearings can be pushed aside allowing the outer bearing to be knocked out, then there's a circlip to take out to access the inner one
i may end up getting a new one and then experiment on the old one
https://www.endurobearingsonline.com/co ... ol-bbt-013
on the same site they sell ceramic bearings for the 240, please check if same as 190. I believe it is, but not certain.
If you can't do the job, or don't have a shop that can do it, then you can always get a complete 240 body, which should go straight on in place of the 190 one. It's a few grammes more, but with it's bigger bearings a better long term bet…...
There's no need to replace the hub shell bearings if they're still feeling smooth. As you've found, you also need the DT tool to remove the drive ring before accessing the hub shell bearings.
btw for when it's time to do the hub bearings i've bought a toolkit on ebay for about the same price as the dt swiss ring nut tool alone, should be good enough for home use...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DT-Swiss-Rear ... 2364171344
inside the fhb there is a tube that sits between the inner races of the two bearings, this can be pushed to the side enough to allow the outer bearing to be tapped out
once that is done, the tube can be removed through the hole leaving plenty of room to tap out the inner bearing
bearing races were corroded/pitted, tiny flecks of metal in the grease, no apparent damage to the fhb itself
bearings are 15x21x4 6702-2RS (metal balls, not ceramic)
improvised a press to put the new ones in, seems fine now
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