Campagnolo Post Mount Disc Work Around

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
morrisond
Posts: 772
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:34 pm

by morrisond

My Campy Levers and RX4's are now installed - they went together with the parts Campy and Hope supplied. It was a little different to bleed them (Campy Syringe in the Front, SRAM rear) and hold them Vertical off the bike.

We used the Shimano Calipers and Campy Fluid.

I have not had a chance to ride them yet due to 2' of Snow on the ground here in Oakville(Toronto) - but they are very firm when you squeeze them - better than Campy Calipers.

I'm Hope(ing) for great power.

DJT21
Posts: 174
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:35 pm

by DJT21

It'll be interesting to see how Hope do with their road disc calipers. I have no idea whether the Campagnolo system is reliable, but I've had issues with Shimano calipers in the past (leaking). I'd much rather have a Hope caliper instead as they're usually fit and forget and replacement seals are available.

bm0p700f
in the industry
Posts: 3650
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
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by bm0p700f

If the lever feels hard the piston in the shimano caliper must be too small meaning lever force required to stop will be higher.

morrisond
Posts: 772
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:34 pm

by morrisond

Sorry I described that wrong - The lever is not hard it's just the Bite point is slightly shorter.

It was a purely unscientific test - there was a Campy Bike with Campy callipers beside mine and I was squeezing both callipers.

rlporter5
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 1:37 pm

by rlporter5

DJT21 wrote:
Sat Dec 30, 2017 9:22 pm
It'll be interesting to see how Hope do with their road disc calipers. I have no idea whether the Campagnolo system is reliable, but I've had issues with Shimano calipers in the past (leaking). I'd much rather have a Hope caliper instead as they're usually fit and forget and replacement seals are available.
So far the Magura rear is working well with my Campy H11 setup - no leaks. And the pads are similar to the Campy ones - magnetically held in place too. Keeps that part simple. You can get the MT8 caliper directly from Magura here in the US for a very reasonable price.

geodandrew
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 1:59 am

by geodandrew

rlporter5 wrote:
Wed Dec 27, 2017 11:46 pm
geodandrew wrote:
Mon Dec 04, 2017 11:38 pm
:roll: So I can tell you this is no small task. Making the Campy H11 levers and Magura M2, or M4/M6 calipers work will cost you time and $$$. I've spent a least $300 wholesale buying stuff to make it work and I'm still not done. I work PT at a high end bike shop. I have the ability to order parts, and get expert help from my friends who work at the shop. They work on hydraulic brakes a lot, and I don't do repairs anymore so the guys at the shop are helping me. Banjo fitting are on the levers and you need banjo fittings at the caliper to use the M4/M6 calipers. Well this is not so simple as the you know because this is not how these things work. Banjo on one end means NO banjo on the other. Adding a barb fitting does not work either as the hydro cable doesn't expand. The Campy hydro cables are thin. I'll add more when I finally get it working properly. :roll:
I actually found this to be pretty easy. I had a frame that I bought, a Titanium Seven, with post mount in the rear triangle, so not easy to change. The Enve fork was under recall, so I swapped it for a flat mount fork. I did a lot of research and came up with the same solution many here have suggested - use a Magura MT8 caliper with the Campy H11 system. Long story short, that's what I did. I'm running the H11 EPS system, Campy front caliper, Magura rear caliper - all is good. Lever feel is the same, modulation is the same, stock pads front and rear.

The key is to get a Magura compatible banjo fitting with a barb on it that uses an olive for compression, and a compression nut. Use the stock Magura mounting bolt. I cut the Campy brake line to the right length, slid the nut and olive over the tubing, pushed the barb ended banjo bolt in, tightened the nut on the banjo, fitted the two o-rings into the banjo, and then fitted the banjo to the caliper. Bled the system with a magura bleeder syringe on the Magura end, and the Campy bleeder on the lever end. Straightforward. No leads. No fade. I'm not an expert on Magura products - I don't use them on my mountain bikes - but I am told that the Magura calipers are similar or identical from the 2 to 8 series. I've only run this for a few weeks, so I don't have any long term results.

I bought my MT8 used on eBay for $40. I have $10 in fittings. I'm keeping my Campy H11 rear caliper for a future build. So, it's a cheap and easy solution in the end.

I don't warranty any of this information, I'm not a bike shop, just an engineer who has been tinkering with bikes and Ducatis for 40 years...
So after about 5 hours of work all is good. I was able to get it working using a bleed kit / syringe on both ends. working back and forth to get the air bubbles out it worked. The bike is sinister looking.

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