Road Disc Brakes- Rotor Choice
Moderator: robbosmans
Wanted to get the Galfers...
I like the look, but not sure how they would work with Sram Axs... Anyone wanna chime in???
On the other hand this is my personal experience: IMO
Same bike, ran Shimano dura ace Ultegra ,105 mix, hydraulic disc brakes, organic pads...
Stopping power fine, numerous pinging after braking and here and there brake rub...
I am not heavy 70-72 kg...
Shimano brakes just aren't finished, there are many shortcomings.
Pistons don't retract as they should, squealing when wet, it's very annoying..
And I don't have any big hills, except when go to a local mountain, the longest descent is 4.5 miles...
Tried Dr Swiss green pads, terrible for me constant squeal even after resending pads and rotors, clean with alcohol... Same squealing noise. Took them off after one ride...
I had Dura ace SM-RT900 Rotor.
That sandwich construction is terrible. Rotor is super soft and bendy. Maybe good for heat dissipation, but not for long braking, always warp.
I had to true the rotor many times, rove pads and clean the pistons often/so the retract evenly/ send rotors and pads and then re-bed the brakes...
Constant hassle.
Modulation and power is good, but not worth it, IMO...
Next chapter, see bike Canyon Ultimate SL/ got an incredible deal and upgraded to Sram Force AXS with Red chain and cassette and Seam's Centerline rotors/ with the black carrier, but not the last version...
The calipers were the newest 2 piece iteration. Sram stock organic pads.
Power and modulation great, little to no squealing at all, no brake rub whatsoever, I was pleasantly surprised...
Never had to true the rotors at all. Only ONCE I removed pads to clean pistons.
Spring seems stronger on Sram. The lever adjustment on Sram asto where u want the pads to engage is great and you can adjust how far the pads stay...
Now a few months ago I noticed my leverw we're needed a lot of travel to engage or to pump the brakes, I thought may be they needed bleeding...
Nope, I brought them to the shop, cause I can't bleed them, only to be told that I just needed a new pads front and back...
Now everything is 100% .
P.S. Don't get me wrong, I am not a Sram fanboy, actually was a Shimano fanboy, but after switching to Sram AXS,they are better brake system in my opinion,at least until now don't know about the 9200...
As I said I am looking to swap rotors just for looks not anything else and was eyeing Campa and Galfer...
If anyone has any experience with them on Sram AXS , LMK.
Thanks.
Best Regards
I like the look, but not sure how they would work with Sram Axs... Anyone wanna chime in???
On the other hand this is my personal experience: IMO
Same bike, ran Shimano dura ace Ultegra ,105 mix, hydraulic disc brakes, organic pads...
Stopping power fine, numerous pinging after braking and here and there brake rub...
I am not heavy 70-72 kg...
Shimano brakes just aren't finished, there are many shortcomings.
Pistons don't retract as they should, squealing when wet, it's very annoying..
And I don't have any big hills, except when go to a local mountain, the longest descent is 4.5 miles...
Tried Dr Swiss green pads, terrible for me constant squeal even after resending pads and rotors, clean with alcohol... Same squealing noise. Took them off after one ride...
I had Dura ace SM-RT900 Rotor.
That sandwich construction is terrible. Rotor is super soft and bendy. Maybe good for heat dissipation, but not for long braking, always warp.
I had to true the rotor many times, rove pads and clean the pistons often/so the retract evenly/ send rotors and pads and then re-bed the brakes...
Constant hassle.
Modulation and power is good, but not worth it, IMO...
Next chapter, see bike Canyon Ultimate SL/ got an incredible deal and upgraded to Sram Force AXS with Red chain and cassette and Seam's Centerline rotors/ with the black carrier, but not the last version...
The calipers were the newest 2 piece iteration. Sram stock organic pads.
Power and modulation great, little to no squealing at all, no brake rub whatsoever, I was pleasantly surprised...
Never had to true the rotors at all. Only ONCE I removed pads to clean pistons.
Spring seems stronger on Sram. The lever adjustment on Sram asto where u want the pads to engage is great and you can adjust how far the pads stay...
Now a few months ago I noticed my leverw we're needed a lot of travel to engage or to pump the brakes, I thought may be they needed bleeding...
Nope, I brought them to the shop, cause I can't bleed them, only to be told that I just needed a new pads front and back...
Now everything is 100% .
P.S. Don't get me wrong, I am not a Sram fanboy, actually was a Shimano fanboy, but after switching to Sram AXS,they are better brake system in my opinion,at least until now don't know about the 9200...
As I said I am looking to swap rotors just for looks not anything else and was eyeing Campa and Galfer...
If anyone has any experience with them on Sram AXS , LMK.
Thanks.
Best Regards
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- Posts: 540
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:39 pm
any one know if Galfer's floating rotor is worth the extra money? thanks.
Some say pour 10ml water out of your bottle to save that last bit of the weight. Sorry, i go one step further, i tend to the rider off my bikes.
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
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Is it available in floating 160mm version? Can't find it on their web page.
Otherwise, I've had great experiences with the Hope Floating Disc Road rotors, much reduced rubbing compared to Shimano and a wide range of colours. Downside is availability is low, I waited 1 year for my CL order.
Otherwise, I've had great experiences with the Hope Floating Disc Road rotors, much reduced rubbing compared to Shimano and a wide range of colours. Downside is availability is low, I waited 1 year for my CL order.
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- Posts: 540
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:39 pm
oh, sorry, i just assumed the CL version is rubbish after seeing many reported the integrated CL adaptor is no good, i just assume 6-bolts is the one to get. i will be using DT swiss 6-bolt to CL adaptor.
Some say pour 10ml water out of your bottle to save that last bit of the weight. Sorry, i go one step further, i tend to the rider off my bikes.
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
i probably missed the thread/posts where people talk about the integrated CL adapter as not being good, can you bring me up to date please, what were the complaints about btw?WorkonSunday wrote: ↑Mon Nov 01, 2021 12:34 pmoh, sorry, i just assumed the CL version is rubbish after seeing many reported the integrated CL adaptor is no good, i just assume 6-bolts is the one to get. i will be using DT swiss 6-bolt to CL adaptor.
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Hello. I was thinking to buy a deeper fast wheelset for my Addict RC while keeping the original wheels to use with wider tyres and tubeless for comfort on longer rides. Just wondering which rotors fit om Sram Force Axs? Is it only the Sram XR? What about Sram centerline X, they are cheaper. Are there any cheaper options to run on my second wheelset?
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022
Not a problem - go ahead. I use 2 different ones for years now (DT Swiss front, Shimano rear). Haven't checked but I remember the Galfer is (like DT Swiss) a BB cup tool type interface. Dit come with a separate ring IIRC.
Somebody with experience in Campagnolo rotors - there are so many versions around? I wonder what, if any, the differences are.
- robbosmans
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Yeah I do the same, I don’t like the external lockringsBLUTACK wrote:Is it okay to use a locking nut from a duraace rota on the galfer disc - I do not have the tool to tighten to galfer disc locking nut... interested to know what this anyway...
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Might have been answered already, but coudln't find it then. I have a new set of galfer road cl disc 160mm rotors. I have however not galfer specific pads. All I have is a set of slightly used, but good condition shimano pads that have been used on a set of ultegra rotors. Could I use them, or would it ruin the galfers?
Eating trash'n riding fast
- robbosmans
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No problem, I also use galfer rotors with shimano resin pads.
The only thing I wouldn’t recommend is using sintered pads on a rotor that has been used with resin pads and vice versa
The only thing I wouldn’t recommend is using sintered pads on a rotor that has been used with resin pads and vice versa
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I agree that the "best" pad is highly situation-dependent. But there's no substantial difference in the heat generated by resin and sintered pads.baldheadbiomed wrote: ↑Mon May 10, 2021 3:49 pmDepends on your use case, there's no universal best pad
In the dry resin is quieter, heat up the rotor less and wear less on the rotors, but wear down faster.
All bicycle brakes function by turning kinetic energy (motion) into heat. If you decelerate from 40-0 km/h, you're generating the same amount of heat whether you're running rim brakes and rubber pads, discs with sintered pads or discs with resin pads.
If anything, the sintered pads' temperature will be infinitesimally cooler than that of the resin pads because the former conducts heat out of the disk slightly faster than resin pads do.
But the heat generated is is identical between the to materials even if the temperatures differ by a few tenths of a degree.
But you're totally right that resin pads wear faster (and wear the disc slower) than sintered ones, of course.
And when pad wear into dust it takes some heat with it. No?
First, it takes energy to shear off the pad compound. And if any part of the pad compound vaporize (gas out), that's even more energy not turning into heat. Pad gassing out is a real thing, the main reason rotors have cut out channel to let the air out rather than pushing apart against brake pads and reduce the braking force, isn't it? I knew it takes more heat to boil 1 mol of water than to make it warmer by 40 degrees. But I don't know how much energy it takes for part of the pad compound to gas out.
Then, the dusty part of the pad drop off, it takes some heat with it too. That part may also very minimally effect the temperature.
That's how I understand. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
First, it takes energy to shear off the pad compound. And if any part of the pad compound vaporize (gas out), that's even more energy not turning into heat. Pad gassing out is a real thing, the main reason rotors have cut out channel to let the air out rather than pushing apart against brake pads and reduce the braking force, isn't it? I knew it takes more heat to boil 1 mol of water than to make it warmer by 40 degrees. But I don't know how much energy it takes for part of the pad compound to gas out.
Then, the dusty part of the pad drop off, it takes some heat with it too. That part may also very minimally effect the temperature.
That's how I understand. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
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I think the dust would bring heat away but is it faster than heat conduction of sintered pads to the brake caliper system?
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