nycebo wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2019 1:48 pm
In a word: SUCCESS!!! Dead Silent!
So what did I do? I followed ALL of the recommendations in the most very recent posts. Thanks mightily to Ryanw. Alas, since I swapped out each item at the same time, you'll have to pick and choose what might work best for you depending on your setup.
Here's exactly what I did, step by step:
First, I removed the old components from the drivetrain (which as a reminder were noisy from new and just got noiser):
-threw out old Shimano XTR/Dura-Ace 11-speed chain (CN-HG901)
-threw out old Shimano Ultegra 11-speed cassette 11-30t (CS-R8000)
Second, I removed the rear mech and verified that the rear mech hanger was dead straight. I was off by no more than 1-2 mm in each direction (seemingly acceptable to me) but I straightened it to dead perfect for posterity.
Third, I cleaned the rear mech thoroughly and:
-threw out the OEM jockey wheels (well, I actually saved them in my toolkit)
Fourth, I installed a new rear cassette, paying a premium for the Dura Ace over Ultegra:
-Shimano Dura-Ace 11-speed cassette 12-28t (CS-R9100)
Fifth, I installed new oversized jockey wheels. I realize that there is some debate as to their efficacy and value. However, there is no denying that the upper jockey wheel that I purchased did NOT have the longer teeth inherent to the OEM Shimano jockey wheel. Despite Ryanw's caution, I went with:
-Kogel Gen 2 12/14T oversized derailleur pulleys for Shimano Dura Ace R9100 (PUL-1214-9100-R) and they look every bit the kit
Sixth, and this will likely receive the most pushback, but on Beaver's and Steffen's recommendations, I decided to try a narrower 12-speed chain instead of the stock Dura-Ace one:
-Shimano XTR M9100 12-speed chain
Some comments on installation:
-Everything cranked down to torque spec
-Chain length determined using the big-big method plus 2 links as per Kogel's recommendation for oversized jockey wheels. For my part, I think I could have used 3 but 4 seemed way too long, so 2 it is. I do not ride cross-chained on big-big anyway so no big deal.
-Upon completion of installation, I re-optimized my Di2 using the E-tube software
The result after my first ride yesterday was miraculous. The bike is dead silent. It is quieter than any of the bikes in my quiver and was definitely quieter than any of the bikes of the guys with whom I ride. Just splendid. Very pleased with the end result.
Now, some further comments on ride and parting thoughts:
-Shifting is very good. I have not noticed a difference in performance. However, as a preliminary precaution, I am not shifting under full load. I'm taking it easy with the new chain since I'm still unsure of using the full mountain bike chain with Dura Ace. I posted a new thread on WW to see what other's think about the chain (does it have a different tooth/gap/pattern?). Consequently, I am entertaining the notion of swapping to the KMC DLC12 just to be safe.
-However, I think that the narrower chain is really the solution. As per Beaver's photo, my chain is absolutely not touching the adjoining cogs when in gear. There is NO grinding.
-Lastly, some people commented about the use of metal jockey wheels instead of the "plastic" OEMs and their impact on noise. There is no difference, other than the teeth. The Kogels are dead silent and look cool. Pricey as hell for what they are, though.
And that's that. Hopefully, this helps sort fellow sufferers out. The noise really detracted from the good experience. If I were short on cash and had to do it over again, I'd just do the following:
1. Make sure rear mech hanger dead straight.
2. Swap OEM pulley wheels for Kogel or J&L 12/14t ($20 on eBay)
3. Use a narrow 12-speed chain. Might not last as long but worth it for piece of mind.
Good luck fellas.