Di2 battery drainage / diagnostics tool

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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

I would like to check with you who have Di2 and battery drainage in typical 1-4 days from fully charged.

Has anyone of you guys left your Di2 bike at a Shimano center?
Did they check with Shimano diagnostic tool?

I would like to ask, could the diagnostic tool also check a fully charged battery and how it handles load?
Or does it only tell if battery is charged or not?
(I ask because a battery can show full on charge, but still not handle load.)

I also wonder if the internal wires can be checked for issues?

If a derailleur has a short, can it act like it's under active shifting all the time?

From what i have understood there is some gray areas even with a diagnostic tool?

All info of great interest

/Thanks!
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Delorre
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by Delorre

Last year, I had battery problems. Like going from empty tot full charge in 15 minutes, going back tot empty in 1 or 2 rides etc. Went tot my lbs, did à full diagnostic. They Found nothing wrong. Changed the battery, and everthing was back tot normal. Or almost. I have to charge more Often with that bike than with my (alsof 9070) Canyon
Why, don't know. Where is your question coming from?

djwalker
Posts: 165
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:35 pm

by djwalker

One thing I read was if you use Bluetooth and the phone app then you need to be sure to disconnect Bluetooth in the app before you quit or battery drain will be higher. I don't know if that applies to you but if it does it is something to check.

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Pokerface07
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by Pokerface07

Sounds like a duff battery. Had something similar recently. Just returned it for a new one. Bonus for me - it was an old internal battery and was replaced with the new bluetooth battery (via retailer).

Only drawback is, if you don't have a spare battery, you have to buy one in the meantime. But buy one from a good retailer and you can return the warranty one for a refund later!
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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

djwalker wrote:One thing I read was if you use Bluetooth and the phone app then you need to be sure to disconnect Bluetooth in the app before you quit or battery drain will be higher. I don't know if that applies to you but if it does it is something to check.


You have to disconnect because if you don't you can't shift

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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

Delorre wrote:Last year, I had battery problems. Like going from empty tot full charge in 15 minutes, going back tot empty in 1 or 2 rides etc. Went tot my lbs, did à full diagnostic. They Found nothing wrong. Changed the battery, and everthing was back tot normal. Or almost. I have to charge more Often with that bike than with my (alsof 9070) Canyon
Why, don't know. Where is your question coming from?


Got a new battery from Shimano center here. The old one failed. Now the new battery seems to drain when i haven't even used the bike.
Latest drains is in 2-3 days, as mentioned, without bike being used.
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Pokerface07
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by Pokerface07

wheelsONfire wrote:
Delorre wrote:Last year, I had battery problems. Like going from empty tot full charge in 15 minutes, going back tot empty in 1 or 2 rides etc. Went tot my lbs, did à full diagnostic. They Found nothing wrong. Changed the battery, and everthing was back tot normal. Or almost. I have to charge more Often with that bike than with my (alsof 9070) Canyon
Why, don't know. Where is your question coming from?


Got a new battery from Shimano center here. The old one failed. Now the new battery seems to drain when i haven't even used the bike.
Latest drains is in 2-3 days, as mentioned, without bike being used.


Well, if you've replaced the battery and the new battery is draining in a few days, you've obviously got a problem elsewhere in the system.

Either a problem with a component or a short in the wiring. If you haven't already - first thing to do is try and run diagnostics on everything to see if anything pops.

If not, you may have to check each wire carefully to look for damage. Last resort - borrow spare mechs for someone (if you don't have a spare) and see if it fixes the problem. It's a process of elimination unfortunately.
Twitter: @FormerTTchamp https://twitter.com/FormerTTchamp

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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

Just found this!

Re: Di2 - different lights since firmware upgrade
Postby holsen » Fri Mar 31, 2017 06:01 am

I've the same problem but worse. My internal battery has been through about 8 charge cycles. Gave it a full charge a week ago and 5 minutes into my first ride, I lost all power. Limped home, gave a full charge, and 10 minutes into the next ride, same problem. I updated my firmware 2 weeks ago and theats when all the trouble started. There's something not right here.

Whole thread available here:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=13074332

I have not been riding my bike, but i suspected something like this would happen.
Battery shows charged and then suddenly it dies after a short ride.
My battery junction box also illuminates green and red at same time.
This guy above, in the copied text, his battery dies after a very short while when he's riding.
So mine dies after a few days and in this time, the bike has not been used at all.
I wonder why this happens with the very latest firmwares installed?

I called Shimano center as mentioned previously. When i did so, i also asked about the differences in the batteries BTR-2 and BTN 110. They told me the battery part is virtually same same.
You just need the latter for blue tooth etc.
So with this in mind it should not be a compatibility issue (due to updates) i guess.
If there was something wrong with the internal wires, should that also mean that the guy at Bikeradar have same problem with his wires?
I checked my bike for moist in any connections, but could find none.
Could it be a derailleur has been damaged?

Anything sucking juice from a battery ough to have a kind of relay signaling when it needs power and when not?
What if such a relay got damaged and signal is constantly on?

I can imagine this happening in any electrical device.
I currently await our local Shimano center dealer to call me for a scheduled time.
Last time i was there, they complained of the fact that Shimano does not pay them anything for the labour hours so they did not help much at all.
Actually, that time i dealt directly with Shimano over here.
That was more easy, since it was no question what was faulty (battery).
This time however, it's more a can of worms.

Came to think about it, Di2/ EPS or Etap won't make you win any races.
But when it works most like it better than mechanical.
Too a point where i am actually been pondering if Rotor with it's UNO groupset is really in such a bad boat after all.
Everyone who's using electronic shifting and has to cancel their rides time after time, i think these might just be the right persons to jump at UNO.
A pity that it cost so much and reports says the FD is shifting rather heavy.
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alfalund
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:42 am
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

by alfalund

How did this story end?

Had a battery die on me last week; wanted to go for a ride and the system was dead. Charged to full, went for a 2-hour ride and checked the battery level to be 23% on my return. Fully charged again and put the bike in the shed. Two days later the battery was dead .. no response when I plugged in the charged.

Located an old PC at the bottom of a cupboard and installed Shimano e-tube diagnostics, which - through the charge cable for SM-BCR2 - found shifters, derailleurs, junction and wireless - but not the master unit aka. the battery. So based on this - and the behaviour of battery - I concluded that the battery was dead.

Shimano wanted to troubleshoot for themselves, with different versions of the the e-tube software - but no luck. They did manage to locate the battery chip through a different charger - the SM-PCE1 diagnostics one - but the cell itself did not respond - just said: please charge battery.

Now the only battery immediately available was a BTR-2, however, that turned out not to be compatible with my set-up. But a new BTN110 did the trick, thank you very much.

So while I am thankful for the assistance by Shimano, I am puzzled by the seemingly unnecessary complexity of their set-up. Why two different chargers, why a chip in the battery - rather than keeping all control and wifi in the junction, why not diagnostics from the mobile app and why no automatic alerts for failing components - whether battery performance or hanging units etc. Not exactly plug & play the way it works today ..

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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

My bike was delivered with BTR-2, which just as yours died. I got a new one from Shimano directly even though they don't generally work with end customers.
This battery also failed, so i went to my Shimano cycle shop here in town. I thought that the BTR-2 was to blame, so in the meanwhile i wait for a new battery (which i assumed again would be BTR-2) i purchased a BTN110. After a few days i got my new battery from the bike shop and this was also the later, BTN110.
So, i decided to use that battery which i got from the bike shop.
During the first quarter of 2018, my bike started to shift very weird and very bad.
The FD needed 5-10 pokes on the pads to "wake up", once i was shifting it worked.
The RD always required 2-3 pokes on pads to shift.
I rode like this but it was really shitty, so i called Shimano directly.
They thought that my new FD, 8050 didn't work with the 6870 system and 785 shifters.
I started to wonder myself, since the charger, BCR2, when connected could not find either battery, junction box under stem or close to BB.
So again i didn't know what to do except buying the diagnostic tool PCE1.
With this i checked FD. RD both shifters and finally the battery!
Again, PCE1 illuminted red and "unit fails to be recognized".
So i leave my battery at the Shimano dealer in town, which seems pretty unhappy with this.
So i phone Shimano for our country.
They start to suggest that the battery is overheated in the seatpost, the Di2 cables are bad or one of the junction boxes.
I ask them who would change all of these when PCE1 clearly says that the FD, RD and shifters works perfectly but the battery is a fail.
They ask me to leave the bike at the Shimano shop, which don't like the idea because they don't get any money from Shimano for the labour.
I ask myself if the batteries actually goes bad due to moist, or they don't work well with vibrations.
My 6870 Di2 is for my gravel bike so, perhaps this is too much!?
Long ranting, but this is my story.....
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sychen
Posts: 239
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:06 pm

by sychen

Had a similar issue to op.
Di2 on on my tarmac kept lasting 3/4 days and. It is fully drained.

Kept going back to the shop to investigate.. Replaced the battery which gave it about 1 more day of life.

Eventually I found the culprit.. It was the ew-wu111 etube wireless unit causing the problem. Took it out of the system and battery seems to be normal after 2 weeks and still full charge.

Do you all have the wireless unit installed?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


alfalund
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:42 am
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

by alfalund

Yes, I have the WU111 as well and use Di2 on my cross bike, so it has been exposed to all the mud in the world - or rather, is has been pretty well protected in the seat post. Do not suspect humidity or vibrations to be the issue, my battery degraded the same way other Li-Ion batteries do when they die ..

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TonyM
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Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

Make sure you have the latest firmware 4.3.6 for the WU101/WU111.

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