Help me fix my CREAKING bb30 bottom bracket

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

hambini wrote:A lot of people email me about creaking bottom brackets. My top tips:

1. Buy decent bearings, SKF, Timken, INA, NTN, NSK, FAG, Nachi, Koyo. Forget buying FSA ones, they are rebranded junk. I also recommend people follow the cannondale spec and use snap rings and not circlips.
2. You really need to check to see if the bb shell is round and also what dimension it is (45.97 with an ISO bearing). If you put a cack quality bearing in the hole, it might not meet iso tolerances and be slightly undersized thereby creating your creak.
3. Always use retaining compound. If you are using a carbon frame then use activator as well.
4. There is a difference between "loctite" and retaining compound. Commonly loctite is used to refer to threadlock. that is completely different to retaining compound.

The tool you use will not make much difference but the bearing quality will.

I believe there is a shop in NL called Eriks, you should be able to get everything you need from there - it also won't be fake.

Hambini

thank you for your help hambini, i wil check the dimension of my BB shell tomorrow. i will order retaining compound somewhere (Eriks is for businesses, will be a long searched as 609 isnt sold in the netherlands)

is it possible that i don't have circlips in my frame ? i didn't see them coming out of the shell when i removed the bearings.. and dont see them sitting inside. it kind of looks like it is just a normal cup without circlips. i heard they did that with the carbon version of the cannondale flash

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Calnago
Posts: 6221
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

jobvisser wrote:Thank you calnago, i have a supersix evo from 2015 but mine just uses bearings, so just the bearings and not the silicon cups

Really? Then my bad... I thought that was an all carbon frame with a carbon PF30 BB shell. So it's got the circlips in the BB shell for the bearings to butt up against then. Sorry, I thought they were pretty much all PF30 save for some with an alloy shell perhaps.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

by Weenie


hambini
Posts: 133
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:13 am

by hambini

jobvisser wrote:
hambini wrote:A lot of people email me about creaking bottom brackets. My top tips:

1. Buy decent bearings, SKF, Timken, INA, NTN, NSK, FAG, Nachi, Koyo. Forget buying FSA ones, they are rebranded junk. I also recommend people follow the cannondale spec and use snap rings and not circlips.
2. You really need to check to see if the bb shell is round and also what dimension it is (45.97 with an ISO bearing). If you put a cack quality bearing in the hole, it might not meet iso tolerances and be slightly undersized thereby creating your creak.
3. Always use retaining compound. If you are using a carbon frame then use activator as well.
4. There is a difference between "loctite" and retaining compound. Commonly loctite is used to refer to threadlock. that is completely different to retaining compound.

The tool you use will not make much difference but the bearing quality will.

I believe there is a shop in NL called Eriks, you should be able to get everything you need from there - it also won't be fake.

Hambini

thank you for your help hambini, i wil check the dimension of my BB shell tomorrow. i will order retaining compound somewhere (Eriks is for businesses, will be a long searched as 609 isnt sold in the netherlands)

is it possible that i don't have circlips in my frame ? i didn't see them coming out of the shell when i removed the bearings.. and dont see them sitting inside. it kind of looks like it is just a normal cup without circlips. i heard they did that with the carbon version of the cannondale flash



It might be worthwhile uploading a photograph.

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BRM
Posts: 817
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm

by BRM

jobvisser wrote: . . . . will be a long searched as 609 isnt sold in the Netherlands


609 is difficult to get in NL, when you find it will be mostimes only a big container of 250ml
However 609, 50ml can easily bought on ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... 9&_sacat=0

A good alternative for 609 is 641, which you can find at your local Loctite dealer or on ebay too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... 1&_sacat=0


Image

C-Bear has good bearings too
http://shop.ceramicbiking.com/

TheDarkInstall
Posts: 724
Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:44 am

by TheDarkInstall

Wakos Brake Protector will eliminate the sound, guaranteed.

You will also be able to get your BB out very easily when the time comes to replace it.

hongsj
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2016 10:47 am

by hongsj

Change a new bb. (ex. wishbone. tripeak. )

jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

Ordered loctite 609 and a proper press in germany yesterday, it should arrive within 10 days and then i will install it... till then i will take my dad's bike

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Calnago
Posts: 6221
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Hope you got the primer as well... required for inactive substrates, such as carbon and titanium for the 609 to work. Also, a pic of your bottom bracket would be good. I hope you just didn't pop the bearings out of the pressfit cups. Because if you can't see the retaining clips, used in BB30 shells, then that's what I'm inclined to think you might have done. I still haven't seen a recent carbon Cannondale with BB30 versus PF30 bottom brackets. PF30 cups don't have to be delrin either by the way, they can be alloy as well, depending on brand. Chris King for example.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

Calnago wrote:Hope you got the primer as well... required for inactive substrates, such as carbon and titanium for the 609 to work. Also, a pic of your bottom bracket would be good. I hope you just didn't pop the bearings out of the pressfit cups. Because if you can't see the retaining clips, used in BB30 shells, then that's what I'm inclined to think you might have done. I still haven't seen a recent carbon Cannondale with BB30 versus PF30 bottom brackets. PF30 cups don't have to be delrin either by the way, they can be alloy as well, depending on brand. Chris King for example.

Hi calnago, im pretty sure i habe bb30, the bearings that came out of my frame look like this
Image
i have kind of cups in the frame which are alloy, the cups go smaller like the shapeof the race in this picture
Image .
and i think the clips are still in or not needed because i have put quite a lot of force on it and it gave back( didnt slip or make a crack when installing) i will try to get pictures soon.
didn't buy the primer as it is steel on alloy

thank you all for the helpful advice already !

jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

*Update*
i have taken some pictures from the inside of the BB. it kind of looks like there are cracks in the shell but the sound doesnt change when tapping it so its (probably) fine.
I let my bike drop about 2 inches above the ground and it made a loud noise . after doing some research i found out that it was my rear wheel ,so i took it out and found out that the body was loose. the body could move about 0,8 mm in and out of the hub so i took my other wheelset with my dura-ace 7900 cassette on it and went for an 8 km testride. No creaks :thumbup:
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uraz
Posts: 86
Joined: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:48 pm

by uraz

Every Supersix Evo has a PF30 bottom bracket. There are NO aluminum inserts inside your frame's bottom bracket. What you see is a "left over" bearing cup.

Image

After removing complete bottom bracket you will end up with someting like this

Image

Stueys
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2014 1:12 pm

by Stueys

Use a decent bb, I've not tried all of them but I've found cbear bearings to be excellent. Then fit with retainer loctite. Sadly much of the branded bearings (rotor, fsa, etc, etc) are a complete waste of time and effort.

jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

uraz wrote:Every Supersix Evo has a PF30 bottom bracket. There are NO aluminum inserts inside your frame's bottom bracket. What you see is a "left over" bearing cup.

Image

After removing complete bottom bracket you will end up with someting like this

Image

oops, i thougt these where cups that were in my frame... really stupid. find it real confusing all the "bb30 and pf30" standards. but the creak was gone on my test ride with my other wheel. will try this setup for a moment

when it tapped out the bearings the cups didn't come out ... do it need to use a headset remove tool like this Image to remove the cups ?

uraz
Posts: 86
Joined: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:48 pm

by uraz

Also I'd recomend you replacing your current bb with threaded PF30. Using retaining compound eliminates creaking but getting out "loctited" cups is major PITA.

by Weenie


jobvisser
Posts: 78
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am

by jobvisser

uraz wrote:Also I'd recomend you replacing your current bb with threaded PF30. Using retaining compound eliminates creaking but getting out "loctited" cups is major PITA.
first i will try my current setup and the i will try one of these

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