S-Works SL 2018

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CrankAddictsRich
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by CrankAddictsRich

r3m wrote:
Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:34 pm
I dont understand because with the size 56 I do not normally need the adapter. Any ideas?

Thanks
This is not correct. For size 56, you absolutely need the adapter. I beleive that Specialized recommends the adapter for all sizes, but some people have made it work without for sizes 49 and 52, but definitely not 56... you need the adapter.

edit :: Actually... now that I think about it, I got it totally reversed... the small sizes deifnitely need it and the larger ones can work without it. total brain fart.
Last edited by CrankAddictsRich on Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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r3m
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by r3m


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taodemon
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by taodemon

You shouldn't need an adapter. I don't have an adapter on mine. Looking at your picture it looks like that threaded insert that connects the cable to the brake is longer than the one on mine, maybe you just need a shorter version of that? That or it needs to be threaded through more so not as much sticks out on the side closest to the seat post (shop set mine up so no idea on all the details involved).

Also just noticed I don't seem to be seeing the carbon bridge on yours, that you should still have on there regardless of size. References to an adapter would be the adapter used on the smaller sizes that changes the brake mounting angle.

One more thing, yours might not be the latest version of the EE brakes and the arm might be sticking out further, hard to tell from the photos as mine is from a slightly different angle. I also don't see the little piece of metal that I assume is a spring on the outside.
Attachments
ee brake install.jpg

eric01
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by eric01

R3m has the eebrake built specifically for the tarmac sl6. Yours is the “normal” eebrake

As far as I can tell the only difference is the spring. On the specialized model, it’s a coil spring behind the logo. You can sort of see it in the side profile picture in the link below. The normal one uses a u shaped external spring.

https://blue.canecreek.com/direct-mount ... tarmac-sl6

R3m, with the cable completely disengaged is it hard to squeeze the pads together? If not then check your cabling — maybe getting caught somewhere. And you should use the carbon bridge that came with your bike.

Specialized Tarmac Sworks SL6, Moots Compact, Carl Strong Titanium

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taodemon
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by taodemon

When I went to order the SL6 specific one I was told that they had updated the normal one so that it would work and they weren't offering the "SL6" specific one anymore but that explains the spring I guess.

r3m
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by r3m

Thanks guys pb solved with the small carbone part.

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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

I'm currently passing Di2 cables on an Sworks SL6 Tarmac that I bought.

a) it's proving VERY difficult, much harder than the SL5, especially the rear mech one.

b) the BB port is SMALL, so even getting the 4 way junction in is hard. But the Dfly sender? Forget it! No way! Where did you guys put your Dflys??!!

liam7020
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by liam7020

Can I ask if this a new frame or pre-loved?! Unlike the previous Tarmac models (SL5 etc) my SL6 came without the BB installed and fitting the electronic cables was relatively handy. Now I was installing EPS but without the bb I would imagine Di2 would be equally as straightforward.
Tarmac SL6 & Campag Record EPS https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 0&t=153968

"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen

CrankAddictsRich
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by CrankAddictsRich

When I was installing Di2 on my Shiv TT, I used this and it made it simple...

Park Tool 1.2 Internal Wiring Kit

keep in mind, the Shiv TT was not made for Di2 at all, so everything had to be retro-fitted.

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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

liam7020 wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:30 am
Can I ask if this a new frame or pre-loved?! Unlike the previous Tarmac models (SL5 etc) my SL6 came without the BB installed and fitting the electronic cables was relatively handy. Now I was installing EPS but without the bb I would imagine Di2 would be equally as straightforward.
I bought the frame 2nd hand, but it's only 6 months old.

Is the BB different from the SL5 then? The SL5 just has bearings pressed into the shell, I thought the SL6 was the same. In any case there is a sleeve that fills most of the BB area......

Interested to hear from anyone using the Dfly, as to my mind, it won't fit in the BB like it did on the SL5. Doesn't leave many places to put it.....

liam7020
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by liam7020

No, the bb exactly is the same but, as you've found out, the slot under the bb is much smaller on the SL6 hence, I'm assuming, why they supply the new frame without the bb pressed in. BTW the rubber boot supplied to cover that slot on the SL6 is pretty much useless!
Tarmac SL6 & Campag Record EPS https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 0&t=153968

"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen

CrankAddictsRich
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by CrankAddictsRich

cyclespeed wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:49 am
Interested to hear from anyone using the Dfly, as to my mind, it won't fit in the BB like it did on the SL5. Doesn't leave many places to put it.....
You can literally install the d-fly anywhere in the system. In my Shiv I connected it in the headtube/toptube area where the plugs from the TT shifters and brakes plugged into the junction. I'd imagine that you can do somehing similar but it would likely mean some new wire lengths are necessary and you'd have to pull the fork out to drop the d-fly in via the head tube.

hyvent
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by hyvent

just purchased the SL6 frame, does anyone know which C-bear BB would fit for a Sram Red ETAP crankset?

my previous frame is the Felt AR1

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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

liam7020 wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:36 am
No, the bb exactly is the same but, as you've found out, the slot under the bb is much smaller on the SL6 hence, I'm assuming, why they supply the new frame without the bb pressed in. BTW the rubber boot supplied to cover that slot on the SL6 is pretty much useless!
But I thought the BB was just the bearings and all the rest was pre moulded in at the factory.

In any case, the Dfly unit would always be installed after purchase, so you have to fit it in somewhere. The SL5 BB hole design was quite good, no idea why they´ve changed it, and as you say the rubber bung cover thing is really cheap and crap.

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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

OK so I worked it out. You HAVE to remove the crank.

This then gives you easy access to the down and seat tubes as there is no sleeve inside.

As I thought, the bearings are just press fitted to the frame, there is no BB as such.

With no crank it's easy to tuck the 4 way and the Dlfy up inside the downtube,

I thought it was odd, as the 4 way does not even go through the little opening the the BB shell.

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