S-Works SL 2018

[eric01]

About to press in the ceramic speed bearings into the frame. One side of the bearing has a red seal and the other black. Does anyone know if it matters which side should be facing outward?

[g32ecs]

Been looking at a cheaper Tarmac for the Mrs, can get good deals on the Tarmac Comp Sagan Disc and Tarmac Expert Rim. Essentially the same price.

Sagan Comp disc weighs 8.1kg, which seems reasonable for a disc bike with I'm assuming a heavy paint job and the lower grade carbon frameset, does anyone know the weight of the Tarmac Expert? I'd guess maybe 7.5 with the better frame and lighter wheels?

Just weighing up her options really, disc isn't a neccessity as it would be a summer bike. I'm leaning towards the Expert due to the better frameset.

Im too lazy to search but I'm wondering if someone's done a WW build on the lower trims (Expert and Comps).

I got my eyes on the Pros if there are any left by May/June. Otherwise I may just be looking for an Expert and upgrade the wheelset or a Comp with a wheelset upgrade as well.

Im sure I'm a 49 so it wont be too hard to get it below 16lbs (seriously, I'm not too fixated on that number). The Comp sacrifices the external BB and the integrated post, so it might take more to get it down on weight.

Also surprised not everyone's going the Tubeless route. I would think as WWs it'd be the first thing on the to do list. When I went Tubeless on my fatbike I immediately noticed the difference.

[Stendhal]

Was your Praxis ceramic? I'm guessing not. I've got both the regular and ceramic bearing Praxis adapters in my bikes and I can feel a difference too. I haven't ever tried C-Bear. They both screw together, but I like the fact that the Praxis is a collet design that expands as you screw the two sides together.

You are correct sir! The Praxis was non ceramic. I don’t think they had that model in ceramic, but if they did it would be far more expensive than cbear judging by the prices of other Praxis ceramic models.

I just installed an S Works Power Arc saddle and am looking forward to trying it out when it stops raining in Northern California.

[CrankAddictsRich]

I got my eyes on the Pros if there are any left by May/June. Otherwise I may just be looking for an Expert and upgrade the wheelset or a Comp with a wheelset upgrade as well.

Im sure I'm a 49 so it wont be too hard to get it below 16lbs (seriously, I'm not too fixated on that number). The Comp sacrifices the external BB and the integrated post, so it might take more to get it down on weight.

Also surprised not everyone's going the Tubeless route. I would think as WWs it'd be the first thing on the to do list. When I went Tubeless on my fatbike I immediately noticed the difference.

Last year, when the experts first came out, I weighed a complete at my local shop and i want to say that it was like 16.7 pounds or so without pedals.... given the components and build, I thought that weight was already fairly light and I think it would be easy to drop it fairly quickly with even just a wheel change.

I don't think swapping to tubeless on a road bike represents as much weight savings as it does on something like a fatbike or MTB. Maybe there's some weight savings, but its not much and depending on the components you're comparing it could be a break even scenarion when you factor in the weight of sealant, valves, slightly heavier tires etc. I'm tubeless on both of my MTB's and was tubeless on my fatbike when I had one, I wouldn't go any other way.... but on a road bike, I'm not sold. I tried it on my TT bike to get the maximum lowest rolling resistance, but in testing, I actually didn't see much difference in comparison to the super low rolling resistance clinchers I was already using... for specifics I compared Vittoria Corsa Speed (set up tubeless) vs. S-Works Cotton Turbo w/ Vittoria latex tubes... times and speeds between setups were pretty similar, but the tubeless setup was much more difficult to get right. The rear wheel seated perfectly and seemed to be holding, but I spent way too much time chasing and trying to fix a slight leak in the front. It got to the point where I was worrying more about if the front wheel was holding air than I was about prepping and warming up for my TT's. Additionally, I've seen several people get punctures on tubeless road bike set ups and they don't seem to self heal as readily as they on MTB's. They generally seem to just blow all of the selant out all over the bike and then the rider ends up fixing a now messy flat on the side of the road anyway. I'm wondering if the higher punctures that road bikes run cause the sealnt to just blow through the puncture too quickly without setting up and sealing.

[hyvent]

havent weighed mine yet, but here it is

size 52

[K4m1k4z3]

havent weighed mine yet, but here it is

size 52

Are those the Aerofly II handlebars? If so, I've got a question. Do they come with the 2 plastic bits/covers that sit where the cables exit the handlebar? And if they don't does anyone have the part number for those bits?

[hyvent]

havent weighed mine yet, but here it is

size 52

Are those the Aerofly II handlebars? If so, I've got a question. Do they come with the 2 plastic bits/covers that sit where the cables exit the handlebar? And if they don't does anyone have the part number for those bits?

they are aerofly 2 bars, i dont have those plastic covers that close off near the stem

[1llum4]

havent weighed mine yet, but here it is

size 52

Are those the Aerofly II handlebars? If so, I've got a question. Do they come with the 2 plastic bits/covers that sit where the cables exit the handlebar? And if they don't does anyone have the part number for those bits?

Part number for just the plastic clip is S189900105

[K4m1k4z3]

havent weighed mine yet, but here it is

size 52

Are those the Aerofly II handlebars? If so, I've got a question. Do they come with the 2 plastic bits/covers that sit where the cables exit the handlebar? And if they don't does anyone have the part number for those bits?

Part number for just the plastic clip is S189900105

A-ha. Thanks!

[g32ecs]

I got my eyes on the Pros if there are any left by May/June. Otherwise I may just be looking for an Expert and upgrade the wheelset or a Comp with a wheelset upgrade as well.

Im sure I'm a 49 so it wont be too hard to get it below 16lbs (seriously, I'm not too fixated on that number). The Comp sacrifices the external BB and the integrated post, so it might take more to get it down on weight.

Also surprised not everyone's going the Tubeless route. I would think as WWs it'd be the first thing on the to do list. When I went Tubeless on my fatbike I immediately noticed the difference.

Last year, when the experts first came out, I weighed a complete at my local shop and i want to say that it was like 16.7 pounds or so without pedals.... given the components and build, I thought that weight was already fairly light and I think it would be easy to drop it fairly quickly with even just a wheel change.

I don't think swapping to tubeless on a road bike represents as much weight savings as it does on something like a fatbike or MTB. Maybe there's some weight savings, but its not much and depending on the components you're comparing it could be a break even scenarion when you factor in the weight of sealant, valves, slightly heavier tires etc. I'm tubeless on both of my MTB's and was tubeless on my fatbike when I had one, I wouldn't go any other way.... but on a road bike, I'm not sold. I tried it on my TT bike to get the maximum lowest rolling resistance, but in testing, I actually didn't see much difference in comparison to the super low rolling resistance clinchers I was already using... for specifics I compared Vittoria Corsa Speed (set up tubeless) vs. S-Works Cotton Turbo w/ Vittoria latex tubes... times and speeds between setups were pretty similar, but the tubeless setup was much more difficult to get right. The rear wheel seated perfectly and seemed to be holding, but I spent way too much time chasing and trying to fix a slight leak in the front. It got to the point where I was worrying more about if the front wheel was holding air than I was about prepping and warming up for my TT's. Additionally, I've seen several people get punctures on tubeless road bike set ups and they don't seem to self heal as readily as they on MTB's. They generally seem to just blow all of the selant out all over the bike and then the rider ends up fixing a now messy flat on the side of the road anyway. I'm wondering if the higher punctures that road bikes run cause the sealnt to just blow through the puncture too quickly without setting up and sealing.

Thanks for the feedback

I'm personally lucky with punctures. Maybe 2x tops in a year if at all. I love running Vittorias who are notorious for very thin rubbers (ran Corsas early 2018 and ended up in random gravel roads which were sure-fire punctures, but got away fine!). Anyway, I'll consider what you've said here

[g32ecs]

Anyone got any size 49 SL6 pics of their setup?

I test rode the one below and that’s been adjusted to my fit (694mm saddle height, 100mm stem,). My height is 165 but I’m more leg than torso. Front end on this was high though, so will drop a spacer and not do the hoverbar. Also the saddle is weird and I always do a SLR fully level.

Aesthetic wise must admit the slope is severe, but when you run a decent saddle bar drop, I find it balances out. Tried a 52 too but no way I could get a comfortable fore-aft. Zero offset might help, but not sure. The 49 fit me well on my 1hr test ride. Also ride a 45s C60 and a 465 Dogma. Both are a great fit, albeit the C60 feels a tad long.

I’m keen on the pink camo SL6 but can’t find good pics of it in 49. Anyone got pics of this, or other 49 setups?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wondering what you ended up with. That's a good saddle to bar drop visually. I'm the opposite as you and a bit taller, I'm more torso than legs.

[cyclespeed]

In case anyone's interested, I'm getting a special carbon piece made up for my SL6.

It's the port on the downtube. Standard is a metal (aluminium I guess) cover that's quite thick and heavy. Seems way overengineered and not pretty.

I don't have a price yet, but hopefully this week.

Will be raw weave carbon, lacquered.

Weight saving? 2 grams?!

[ome rodriguez]

Hopp carbon parts makes one for electronic.

[liam7020]

Maybe it's just the harshness of the flash but that surface looks a tad rough?!

[morganb]

Been looking at a cheaper Tarmac for the Mrs, can get good deals on the Tarmac Comp Sagan Disc and Tarmac Expert Rim. Essentially the same price.

Sagan Comp disc weighs 8.1kg, which seems reasonable for a disc bike with I'm assuming a heavy paint job and the lower grade carbon frameset, does anyone know the weight of the Tarmac Expert? I'd guess maybe 7.5 with the better frame and lighter wheels?

Just weighing up her options really, disc isn't a neccessity as it would be a summer bike. I'm leaning towards the Expert due to the better frameset.

Im too lazy to search but I'm wondering if someone's done a WW build on the lower trims (Expert and Comps).

I got my eyes on the Pros if there are any left by May/June. Otherwise I may just be looking for an Expert and upgrade the wheelset or a Comp with a wheelset upgrade as well.

Im sure I'm a 49 so it wont be too hard to get it below 16lbs (seriously, I'm not too fixated on that number). The Comp sacrifices the external BB and the integrated post, so it might take more to get it down on weight.

Also surprised not everyone's going the Tubeless route. I would think as WWs it'd be the first thing on the to do list. When I went Tubeless on my fatbike I immediately noticed the difference.

My Expert frame in size 52 cm is 6.9kg/15.2lbs with eTap/Rotor 3D+ with Power2Max, Zipp SL70 aero bars, Sprint stem, stock saddle, and Pacenti SL23/Bitex hub wheels. Nothing really weight weenie about it except eeBrakes but still reasonably light.