the more aero cover was used for '16 models, they use the round type since '17
but you can order the older version from Canyon. I just did a few days ago, just because I like how it looks
Canyon Ultimate SLX 8.0 steerer plug adjustment
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No. It's stuck. I'm afraid I might even have ripped some threads of the small bolt by pulling... The first few threads won't bite anymore. Now I REALLY have to be able to move up the plug, or I won't be able to put my bike together and tighten the headset without cutting the steerer... Which I don't want to do.slake21 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 08, 2018 7:36 amcan't you use the bolt to pull it up? like in this video https://youtu.be/l2PMfPiy90E?t=2m15s
On my daughters 2016 Aeroroad, the steerer bung was locked solid (its got an o ring which seemed to fuse itself to the steerer tube) and is a bit like an oldie quil stem - it does need to be lossened off quite a bit, i tapped the bung down very slightly, sprayed in wd40 and then using a much longer bolt pulled the bung up as per posts above.
Got it unstuck by tapping it down. Was a pain to adjust afterwards, since raising it resulted in the small top cap bolt bottoming on the top non-threaded section. So I had to push the plug a bit further down that I would have liked.
The plug is quite thin. Not sure it provides much support. I've also noticed that even tightened to less than the prescribed 4 NM, it seems to bulge out the steerer enough to make it difficult to take the stem on and off!
Hope this is still safe...
The plug is quite thin. Not sure it provides much support. I've also noticed that even tightened to less than the prescribed 4 NM, it seems to bulge out the steerer enough to make it difficult to take the stem on and off!
Hope this is still safe...
If your bike has the Acros headset (like my '18 Aeroad), the compression plug is basically only there to hold down the top cap, not to preload the headset bearings. I didn't notice this at first because the Canyon assembly instructions suck, so I stripped out the threads in my compression plug when I first assembled the bike. Not only is the top cap bolt tiny with fine threads, the plug threads are aluminum and immediately stripped with barely any force.
I've been having problems getting the headset to stay tight with the Acros preload system, so I figured I'd try a new compression plug to 'assist' with the preload. This past week, I bought a new FSA plug to replace it, but I also couldn't get the stock canyon plug out after loosening. I'll try to knock it downward to see if that helps to loosen it up.
I'm not 100% sure how the Canyon fork stem is built because it seems to be thicker down lower near the bearings, but gets much thinner up where the stem is bolted on. The compression plug sits down low where it's thicker and won't fit up at the top, which means it's not doing anything to counteract the compression force of the stem.
I've been having problems getting the headset to stay tight with the Acros preload system, so I figured I'd try a new compression plug to 'assist' with the preload. This past week, I bought a new FSA plug to replace it, but I also couldn't get the stock canyon plug out after loosening. I'll try to knock it downward to see if that helps to loosen it up.
I'm not 100% sure how the Canyon fork stem is built because it seems to be thicker down lower near the bearings, but gets much thinner up where the stem is bolted on. The compression plug sits down low where it's thicker and won't fit up at the top, which means it's not doing anything to counteract the compression force of the stem.
My personal experience (sample size of 1...) suggests otherwise. Unlike the videos I could find of previous years Aeroad and Ultimate headset adjustment, the but on the headset cap had no effect whatsoever on bearing play elimination on my bike, even when torqued uncomfortably above the stated torque value.dcorn wrote: ↑Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:11 pmIf your bike has the Acros headset (like my '18 Aeroad), the compression plug is basically only there to hold down the top cap, not to preload the headset bearings. I didn't notice this at first because the Canyon assembly instructions suck, so I stripped out the threads in my compression plug when I first assembled the bike. Not only is the top cap bolt tiny with fine threads, the plug threads are aluminum and immediately stripped with barely any force.
I've been having problems getting the headset to stay tight with the Acros preload system, so I figured I'd try a new compression plug to 'assist' with the preload. This past week, I bought a new FSA plug to replace it, but I also couldn't get the stock canyon plug out after loosening. I'll try to knock it downward to see if that helps to loosen it up.
I'm not 100% sure how the Canyon fork stem is built because it seems to be thicker down lower near the bearings, but gets much thinner up where the stem is bolted on. The compression plug sits down low where it's thicker and won't fit up at the top, which means it's not doing anything to counteract the compression force of the stem.
The only adjustment that had any effect on eliminating headset play and knocking was tightening the small #3 allen bolt on the top cap before tightening the stem/handlebar, as on any other bike with a thread less headset.
I seem to remember coming across another thread indicating that Canyon has switched from the previous adjustment system to this one recently.
I'm not sure I understand the purpose of the nut on the headset cap under these circumstances... But that's clearly how my bike operates (i.e., tightening the plug takes out the play in the headset).
What canyon doesn't show in its instructions on the website is that (at least for the ultimate 2018) before tightening up the top cap screw you need to untighten not only the two bolts on the cockpit but also the bolt on the rear of headset cap. After preloading with the top screw fix the cockpit bolts and finally the headset cap screw.Bordcla wrote: ↑Tue Apr 10, 2018 4:12 pmMy personal experience (sample size of 1...) suggests otherwise. Unlike the videos I could find of previous years Aeroad and Ultimate headset adjustment, the but on the headset cap had no effect whatsoever on bearing play elimination on my bike, even when torqued uncomfortably above the stated torque value.dcorn wrote: ↑Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:11 pmIf your bike has the Acros headset (like my '18 Aeroad), the compression plug is basically only there to hold down the top cap, not to preload the headset bearings. I didn't notice this at first because the Canyon assembly instructions suck, so I stripped out the threads in my compression plug when I first assembled the bike. Not only is the top cap bolt tiny with fine threads, the plug threads are aluminum and immediately stripped with barely any force.
I've been having problems getting the headset to stay tight with the Acros preload system, so I figured I'd try a new compression plug to 'assist' with the preload. This past week, I bought a new FSA plug to replace it, but I also couldn't get the stock canyon plug out after loosening. I'll try to knock it downward to see if that helps to loosen it up.
I'm not 100% sure how the Canyon fork stem is built because it seems to be thicker down lower near the bearings, but gets much thinner up where the stem is bolted on. The compression plug sits down low where it's thicker and won't fit up at the top, which means it's not doing anything to counteract the compression force of the stem.
The only adjustment that had any effect on eliminating headset play and knocking was tightening the small #3 allen bolt on the top cap before tightening the stem/handlebar, as on any other bike with a thread less headset.
I seem to remember coming across another thread indicating that Canyon has switched from the previous adjustment system to this one recently.
I'm not sure I understand the purpose of the nut on the headset cap under these circumstances... But that's clearly how my bike operates (i.e., tightening the plug takes out the play in the headset).
I would guess the point of the newer headset cover clamp is that preload can be properly set at the factory. When the customer takes delivery of the bike and is to assemble the handlebar (or adjust the height by amount of spacers), the customer does not need to know how to set preload.
That's probably the idea. But once some play comes into play it still has to be adjusted. In my experience after about 1500km.MayhemSWE wrote: ↑Sat May 19, 2018 4:21 pmI would guess the point of the newer headset cover clamp is that preload can be properly set at the factory. When the customer takes delivery of the bike and is to assemble the handlebar (or adjust the height by amount of spacers), the customer does not need to know how to set preload.
