Quarq With Cannondale BB30A

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 5:34 am

by allenpg

I recently got a Quarq Elsa RS to go with my 2016 Cannondale Evo Hi-Mod that has BB30A spacing. Crank fits fine and I installed the spacers as mentioned by Quarq on DC Rainmaker's site. I'm using the standard DS spacer and the NDS preload adjuster. Everything is OK, but I can't tell if the chainline is slightly different than my Hollowgram was on it. It seems like there is extra chain tension with big front, big rear with the chain sometimes dropping to the small front ring. I know this is cross chaining, but never had a problem with this gear combo on the Hollowgram. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks!


by Weenie

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by alcatraz

Are all cranks created equal when it comes to chainline? Maybe not...

Why not change the spacer configuration? You should be able to obtain your old chainline.


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by cyclenutnz

I end up spending a fair bit of time with vernier calipers and Quarqs on BBright (depending on the BB used) to get the stance width evenly spaced. BB30A will have the same foibles.
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by grover

BB30A has the same driveside bearing position as standard BB30. By using the standard 13mm driveside spacer your chainline should be as SRAM intended it.

The extra 5mm of bb shell width is all on the non-drive side so I take it you removed the 5mm spacer from the non-drive side and are just using the threded preload adjuster on that side?

As for the chainline. I think that SRAM chainline is wider than Hollowgram chainline. That is subjective. I don't have numbers or a measurement. I wonder if this has been done to split the difference with 130 and 135 hub spacing now that disc brakes are being introduced? The new Dura-Ace also has a slightly wider chainline to accommodate the cassette being further out with disc brake wheels.

As for your problem. SRAM also make a 9mm spacer and 2.5mm spacers. You could install a 9+2.5=11.5mm on the drive side instead of 13mm bringing your chainline 1.5mm narrower and see if that helps. You'll then need to add that 1.5mm to the non-drive side using microshims in order to preload your crankset correctly. If the threaded preload adjuster has been threaded more than 1mm you would have room for a 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side and then just less play taken up with the threaded preload adjuster.

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