Look 795 E-post 2?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:45 am

by CDNcrono

I worked in the LOOk After Sales department for a year until recently.

The fore/aft movement of the Epost2 found on the 795 until 2017 is completely normal. At 2Nm, you should not be able to pull the post out, but still have the movement. Without the movement, it was deemed too stiff and unforgiving. This information is actually in the notices provided in the wallet you receive with your frame/bike. Just read through it. The 795 RS for 2018 has a new Evo post which has no movement whatsoever. Don't be surprised to have a noticeable harsher ride.

As for the C-stem, should it have slipped, then it is possible the stem has micro cracked at the back in the rounded section. This occurs when it is overtightened. That is why it is extremely important to use a torque wrench when assembling a Look frame/bike. Also, note that your torque wrenches should be recalibrated regularly to ensure an accurate tension. They do lose tension with time and use. Look has all their calibrated tools checked yearly to ensure the most accurate tension and measurements.

This all information the distributors have, but you all deal with retailers who just may not remember this info.

by Weenie

in the industry
Posts: 3714
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K

by bm0p700f

I think there is too much look hate. I have fallen in love not literraly of course I am not marrying it, with mine again. It is just so damm comfy. did a 24hr TT and a couple of 12hr TT's on it this year and no pain at all, no numbness nothing broke even the BB collar stayed in place.

I do wonder if some of the issue people are having are due to fitting errors of some description. I would echo the above. the parts are torque sensitive but as I do not see any of these bike bar my own my sample size is small. All I know is the Look 795 haters have very biased opinions.

I use 25mm IRC roadlites on 19mm internal width rims the real width is 27.5mm and there is clearance at the rear not alot at the front under the fork crown but enough for the tyre to spin without catching. I do not have paint rub. What I am annoyed with is a chip in the down down tube, well more like a dent when what must have been a stone/rock from a passing car hit the pointy bit of the tube profile. It has not cracked and I dont think it will but the resale value has gone. I suppose I will have to ride it till its dead now what a shame.

Posts: 3974
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:43 pm

by wingguy

CDNcrono wrote:This all information the distributors have, but you all deal with retailers who just may not remember this info.

Lol, trust me, as a retailer who had to have the argument (yes, argument) with pretty much every 795 customer that 'yes, your seatpost is supposed to rock back and forward that much and no, there's nothing you can do about it' we definitely remember that info :wink: And when all the Aerostems were recalled because the design and construction wasn't good enough the response wasn't 'oh what a surprise' but more 'We told you so'. Heck, we had a video of one of the earliest aerostems flexing so much that our Look rep was actually scared that people might be out there riding on one that behaved like that.

Anyway, there's a reason that not just retailers but national distributors are immensely relieved that Look are now making a 'normal' top end road bike again with the Huez. Frankly, they see it as an opportunity to rehabilitate the brand.

Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2017 12:10 pm

by catani

I wonder why mine doesn't rock back and forth. I don't think I tighten the bolt too hard, just to the one "click" before I would have to start applying considerate torque to get to the next "click" sound.
The stem is a bit flexy, so that when I try rocking the handlebar the ends of the drops move up and down about 1/3 of an inch.

However, I have recently seen a 2016 795 Aerolight with the stem installed so that the top surface, instead of being flush with the top of the top tube, was approx. an inch above it!!! Whoever installed it didn't push it all the way down. I wonder if the thing had fallen off because the foul way it had been fitted would the owner be blaming the design for it too?

What I do hate about this bike is the chainring bolts though. When getting tightened with just a little bit too much force they snap. And Look spare parts, even the smallest bits, are royally priced. I don't believe the manual actually says what the correct torque for tightening these should be.
Also the bolt that draws the saddle clamp wedges together is too tiny and too fragile. I have already rounded one while applying less than the required 8Nm. A new one costs 27 Euros (in some internet shops even as much as 50 Euros).

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