WCB-R-081 build

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Hexsense
Posts: 374
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

PureSek wrote:Looking for some sizes advice for my first ever roadbike, any owner of the r-081can help me here?
my inseam and height is 82cm and 173cm, should i go for the size 52 or 54?

Look at the picture above your comment.
That is the set up for rider with height= 169cm inseam=79cm. on frame size 49 using 100mm stem at -10 degree.
the headset cap are 7mm tall and then 10mm aero spacer under the stem. Crank length used is 165mm. (it affact how high the saddle should be, if i use 170mm crank i'd set the saddle 0.5cm lower.) The saddle height is not very accurate as i actually raise the seatpost up further for 0.5cm after i take the photo. (so the picture show the saddle to be 0.5cm too low. negligible but just make sure i say it)

The rider(myself) is 4cm shorter than you but with 3cm shorter inseam means my torso is only 1cm shorter (don't know about arms length).

52 is 0.6cm longer and 1.7cm taller than 49. -> i can fit this size too with no spacer and thin-ish (~2mm) headset cap and 90mm stem*
54 is 1.0cm longer and 3.5cm taller than 49. -> the headtube is just too high for me.

*: Length is something to consider more than just bike's reach difference because the head tube are 71,72,73 degree(for size 49,52,54) so any spacer under stem also effectively shorten the reach down. for example if i use size 54 i would need 80mm stem rather than 90 (100-10,different in reach between 2 sizes).

the first comment of this thread show size 52 with 80mm stem but lower spacer than mine. (for the look comparison)

if you use size 54 and your arm are similar proportion as me and OP, you'll end up with stem length 90mm (at most) or less (more likely).
So i'd strongly suggest 52 rather than 54 except if you plan to ride with very high handle bar and short stem then 54 can reduce spacer needed under stem.
But choose it yourself. :beerchug:

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

Hexsense wrote:
PureSek wrote:Looking for some sizes advice for my first ever roadbike, any owner of the r-081can help me here?
my inseam and height is 82cm and 173cm, should i go for the size 52 or 54?

Look at the picture above your comment.
That is the set up for rider with height= 169cm inseam=79cm. on frame size 49 using 100mm stem at -10 degree.
the headset cap are 7mm tall and then 10mm aero spacer under the stem. Crank length used is 165mm. (it affact how high the saddle should be, if i use 170mm crank i'd set the saddle 0.5cm lower.) The saddle height is not very accurate as i actually raise the seatpost up further for 0.5cm after i take the photo. (so the picture show the saddle to be 0.5cm too low. negligible but just make sure i say it)

The rider(myself) is 4cm shorter than you but with 3cm shorter inseam means my torso is only 1cm shorter (don't know about arms length).

52 is 0.6cm longer and 1.7cm taller than 49. -> i can fit this size too with no spacer and thin-ish (~2mm) headset cap and 90mm stem*
54 is 1.0cm longer and 3.5cm taller than 49. -> the headtube is just too high for me.

*: Length is something to consider more than just bike's reach difference because the head tube are 71,72,73 degree(for size 49,52,54) so any spacer under stem also effectively shorten the reach down. for example if i use size 54 i would need 80mm stem rather than 90 (100-10,different in reach between 2 sizes).

the first comment of this thread show size 52 with 80mm stem but lower spacer than mine. (for the look comparison)

if you use size 54 and your arm are similar proportion as me and OP, you'll end up with stem length 90mm (at most) or less (more likely).
So i'd strongly suggest 52 rather than 54 except if you plan to ride with very high handle bar and short stem then 54 can reduce spacer needed under stem.
But choose it yourself. :beerchug:


Thankss mate, that was some very detailed advice.
in that way I think I going for the size 52 just because 9mm or even shorter stem looks awful to me.

Anyways, if I'm going for the 52, about what length of stem should i get given the angle is -6 degree? and is there a chance I can remove all the spacers under the stem?
look forward to sharing my first bike here to all of you :beerchug:
cheerss

Hexsense
Posts: 374
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

PureSek wrote:Thankss mate, that was some very detailed advice.
in that way I think I going for the size 52 just because 9mm or even shorter stem looks awful to me.

Anyways, if I'm going for the 52, about what length of stem should i get given the angle is -6 degree? and is there a chance I can remove all the spacers under the stem?
look forward to sharing my first bike here to all of you :beerchug:
cheerss

I don't know your flexibility and arm length. Stem length could be anywhere from 90-120mm but around 100-110 is good as the starting point. I know some friends who like to stretch out. some who like to keep the bar relatively close but low etc. you'll know after you ride the bike so just buy some cheap stem first (like Kalloy Uno stem on Ebay). You can definitely slam the stem if you are very flexible and have good core muscle or simply give up some comfort in drop position. I'm riding 1cm spacer on top of the dust cap comfortably in drop. Your size is 1.7cm higher than mine and using stem with -6 degree rather than -10 (but you are taller of course). My position are earned by riding and work out for a year though. You may not be able to use it comfortably when you first start (as it is your first road bike) but you'll get there. It's better to have room to go down. Better than using a bike too big and can't go lower when you want to.

-6 rather than -10 degree stem (100mm) with 72degree steerer tube result in bar being 2mm closer and 7mm higher.
stem.png


stem calculator
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

okay a quick update here

Just made my payment on the WCB-R-081 X-brakes QR version (X=direct mount brakes to them) in Size 52. Told them not to do any paint job, not even matte or gloss, as im probably going to finish it off with PlastiDip myself. hopefully its going to give it some weight reduction as well.

delivery date said to be within 14days, that if its true its gna be few days before my birthday this year (What a present).
and thanks @Hexsense for being so patient with the advice again

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

ImageImageImageImageImageImage
finally received my frameset after a 2/3 weeks delay.
Asked them not to apply any paint job, however still there is like a gloss paint finish but it is apparently and totally not even , with some blemishes or marks of (sanding? maybe). i have no idea. if theres someone who can explain this would be so great.
Had to say the finish quality is quite very bad, wish this is a trade off for its ride quality.
Will upload an update after i paint it with plastidip


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Hexsense
Posts: 374
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

hmm, that does looks indeed like clear coated.

when i order, i ask them to take a photo for me before ship the item out just to see if they did the color right.
Then later they apologized and said the factory ignored the notes and already shipped the item out...
Luckily the color came out exactly how i want it to be.

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wheelbuilder
Posts: 421
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am

by wheelbuilder

Hope it's not the case, but in your photo the area just above the drive side BB shell looks like it may be de-laminated. Could be a reflection though. I would inspect that area further.

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

wheelbuilder wrote:Hope it's not the case, but in your photo the area just above the drive side BB shell looks like it may be de-laminated. Could be a reflection though. I would inspect that area further.

it's just reflection, luckily. no worries thanks for reminding though


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PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

wheelbuilder wrote:Hope it's not the case, but in your photo the area just above the drive side BB shell looks like it may be de-laminated. Could be a reflection though. I would inspect that area further.

however, finally got some time to do some more thorough inspection, and i did spot some more problems from the frame.
Look like some cracking mark to me. is this "de-laminated" or is it just some normal marks from layering the carbon during production?
cos im totally new to this as this is my first new bike but those marks rly got to my nerve. hope to hear some opinions from you ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage



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ms6073
Posts: 2393
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

Seems to me that what we are seeing is really just poor workmanship in the application of the cosmetic/surface layers applied over the carbon.
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

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wheelbuilder
Posts: 421
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am

by wheelbuilder

Wow. That is a really badly done frame. While nothing appears from the outside to be obviously structural except maybe that area near the bottle cage bosses, I'm assuming you are probably going to have tolerance issues that seem to vex most poorly done carbon frames......headset/BB/seatpost/cable stops.... If possible, I would send that thing back.

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

wheelbuilder wrote:Wow. That is a really badly done frame. While nothing appears from the outside to be obviously structural except maybe that area near the bottle cage bosses, I'm assuming you are probably going to have tolerance issues that seem to vex most poorly done carbon frames......headset/BB/seatpost/cable stops.... If possible, I would send that thing back.

safety issue is my first concern after all
going to get in touch w the salesperson from workswell tmr on sending this shit back to them and get a new one
hopefully can hear some good news from
them
wish me luck


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grumpus
Posts: 37
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 3:31 am

by grumpus

I would guess this was a result of some mistranslation of your asking for no finish on the frame. It should be something that they are able to accommodate, but I think with a place like workswell, you're better off sticking to what their familiar with. I have a 066 and an 078 in matte clear coat that are finished very well re:headset, bb, seatpost, cable stops, and layup appearance. Looks like they picked this one out of the rejects pile.

PureSek
Posts: 23
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:17 am

by PureSek

grumpus wrote:I would guess this was a result of some mistranslation of your asking for no finish on the frame. It should be something that they are able to accommodate, but I think with a place like workswell, you're better off sticking to what their familiar with. I have a 066 and an 078 in matte clear coat that are finished very well re:headset, bb, seatpost, cable stops, and layup appearance. Looks like they picked this one out of the rejects pile.

"Looks like they picked this one out of the rejects pile." this is what i exactly think too.

but on the other side, even if i asked for a matte coat finish just like you did, we never knew whats underneath the matte coat right? so if i asked for no finish, normally they should get one with a better finish, better quality in this sense. sadly this is not my case.

anyway im going to ask for a new one tmr.

should i just asked for a matte finish, or stick with no finish? given that the seat post and fork with no finish on my hand now is totally fine.


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grumpus
Posts: 37
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 3:31 am

by grumpus

The matte clear coat is transparent, so I can tell that the top layer on my bikes is much neater. Still can't tell what's under the first layer, but that's true for any bike. Without cutting it up, it's always going to be some element of faith. But I'm more confident with nice looking layup. In some places on mine, I can see the seams, but they look straighter and more even than your pictures.

I like the look of the matte clear coat better than plastidip, so that's what I would do. But another trend I've seen with workswell is that they usually get it right eventually. If you want a raw frame, you will probably get a good looking one in the end, but you may have to go back and forth more than once.

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