Race Specific Wheels

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
peterdingles
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Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 4:55 am
Location: San Luis Obispo

by peterdingles

I'm looking for a light set of wheels for racing. I weigh 175 lbs and these will be used for racing only, road races and crits. Looking for light, stiff, good for climbing, and good sprinting wheels (If there is sucha a thing!!!). What do you guys suggest? I had in mind Topolino, Rolf Prima, American Classic, and Ksyrium, any other suggestions? Have you guys ridden any of these wheels? What do you think? I'm looking for a clincher. Thanks

by Weenie


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Bruiser
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by Bruiser

Try http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=550&start=90

Forget the Ksyriums they weigh heaps.

Brian

peterdingles
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Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 4:55 am
Location: San Luis Obispo

by peterdingles

Thanks for the link, I've read the whole thread. Has anyone ridden any of the top 10 wheels on the list? How stiff are they? How durable are they? I don't want a superlight wheelset that is going to give me speed wobbles at 30 mph! Those American Classics sound great, any experience on them? I think right now Im leaning towards the Rold Prima Elan Aero.

Rogue_M3
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 2:55 pm
Location: St. Louis

by Rogue_M3

If you want race only wheels you should really consider going with tubulars. They are much lighter than most clinchers and they are typically less prone to flat.

I would recommend the Reynolds Stratus DV wheels. They are light and aero and extremely strong. You won't have to worry about speed wobbles and you won't feel any flex with these wheels.

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Bruiser
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by Bruiser

Tubular wheels are much lighter than clinchers but changing tyres is a problem.
Does anyone have experience with a sealant for punctures?

Brian

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Ye Olde Balde One
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Location: Santa Monica, CA

by Ye Olde Balde One

Bruiser wrote:Tubular wheels are much lighter than clinchers but changing tyres is a problem.
Does anyone have experience with a sealant for punctures?

Brian


This is only now true if you buy carbon rims according to research I have done.

The lightest tubular aluminum rim in production I can find is the Ambrosio F-20 Crono, which weighs around 360gm. There are older rims around like the Wolber Profil A, which I weighed at 275gm, but sadly no longer a production item. The CR-350 and other Nb rims available from Taiwan weigh around 360gm as well. I'd love to be corrected about this.

There are still lighter tubulars available, from Veloflex and Tufo.

Now I got off my sad soapbox, I only have one experience with the Tufo sealant, I had multiple thorns in a Veloflex Criterium, so I thought I had nothing to lose by using the sealant. It plugged the small holes, and a year later I still have the tire in use.
Ride lightly!

520 Dan
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by 520 Dan

Actually, changing tires on tubs isn't a problem. It isn't very hard, it can just be a time intensive process IF you want to do the ABOSOLUTE best job, which means amassing several layers of tub glue on the tire and rim. ONce you've changed a tub about 3 times, its just second nature and if they're of good quality, its easy to get the lumps out and get it straight. Plus, its should just be a requirement for all people who consider themselves true road cyclists, to change a tub at least once and see the fruit of your efforts.

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spaniardclimber
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by spaniardclimber

Or you could use TUFO rim tape and avoid glue.

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Ye Olde Balde One
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by Ye Olde Balde One

spaniardclimber wrote:Or you could use TUFO rim tape and avoid glue.


I've used this stuff okay, but one thing sticks in my mind, what if you have a puncture? At least with glue you can lay on a new tubular and ride it, but with tape?
Ride lightly!

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spaniardclimber
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by spaniardclimber

You can re-use the tape for that ride and change it once you are home.

JTC
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:05 pm

by JTC

I second Ye Old Bald One. I find changing tubies easy. Last flat I had to change took about 5 min. Last clincher I changed took longer than that. I began cycling on clinchers and just recently got ride of all my clinchers and went with all tubies because clinchers are a hassle for me.

Joel
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by Joel

Personally, I like tubulars most for racing and when I glue them I put 3 layers of glue on the rim, so it takes some days.
I train on clinchers, because it's quite expensive when you have to buy a new tubular and an inner tires is much smaller and easier to put in your shirt.

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Bruiser
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by Bruiser

Interesting responses keep them coming please.

Where I race has lots of thorns so I've been steering away from tubies.

Tubie wheelsets tend to have a deeper scetion and would weigh more than a shallow rim, however the aero advantage is important to me.

Does anyone have a list for

Lightest Tubular Wheelset Currently Available?

Brian

Racing Aardvark
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Location: Boulder, CO

by Racing Aardvark

Bruiser,
I race out in Colorado (and did the Tour of the Gila in New Mexico last year) on lightweight Tufo tubies. I've had ONE puncture, and it was a nasty piece of glass.

I had zero issues at the Gila, which is known for having goatheads everywhere, even with shooting up the shoulder of the road to move up in the pack.

I put the sealant in all my tufos, and couldn't be happier with it in my cross tires (which I have never flatted).

by Weenie


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Bruiser
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by Bruiser

How much does the sealant weigh? As we all get flats we should include the weight as part of the tyre.

We have catheads where I race but I imagine the probability of flats would be the same with clichers and tubies.

I've heard of riders using it with Tufo tyres, is it an option with other brands?

Brian

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