Red crank loose pedal insert repair (DIY) step by step

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hadzray89
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2019 4:39 pm

by hadzray89

josemari220 wrote:
Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:45 pm
Hello everybody.
Sadly i am another victim of the carbon crank pedal insert loose. MIne are Sram Red. Not so usual like FSA, but the same consequence. Many post asking for solutions or repairs, but seems that almost nobody do it. Some of them tried to put some glue through holes, but nobody tried to do a real repair, so I have done it. Looking for practice more than do a real repair. This is my first attempt with carbon fiber, so I don´t mind which will be the final results.
So here you have the proccess with some pics to see real step by step.

First is to discover the pedal insert. You can do it easilly with a grinder. I opened a window in the front face.
1 red crank insert view comp.JPG

Then the insert can be taken out to clean the old epoxi and carbon residues.
Because of the unbonded, the insert is a bit loose, so it is necesary to add a thin layer of carbon where it sits to fill the gap. The good thing is that the inside of the arm has a shape where the insert sits perfectly, so is in no possible to vary the position, angle, lenght, etc.
To avoid epoxy goes to the pedal thread, I put thick grease in it, and cover both holes with a rouded piece of adhesive tape, just to cover the hole.
2 red crank insert out comp.JPG

With the insert out, you can see the hollow inside of the arm. Hi-tech.
3 red crank insert hollow arm comp.JPG

I designed some pieces with paper, with the shapes of carbon to do the layers. It is necesry to
wrap in differents directions, and it is complicated because the rouded shape of the arm end.
I also cut an small piece of poliuretane foam to fill an smal gap between the insert and the arm. The carbon must to be pressed, and, if is nothing under it, the carbon will fall into the hole and it will be not well compacted.
4 red crank planning carbon pieces comp.JPG

I have done the work with carbon cloth and epoxi resin bought in ebay.
Epoxy comes in two parts, so it is necessary to mix them in the right percentage.
5 epoxi mix comp.JPG

Apply the carbon pieces and soak with epoxi. It is not easy because they tend to loose the
position when you try to add the next piece in other direction.
6 apply carbon layer and epoxi mix comp.JPG

When you have put enough layers, it is necessary to give pressure to the carbon-epoxi to force
the excess of epoxy to go out and achieve the carbon ends up very tight and with no air inside. There are some ways. This is a DIY, so i have used a tyre inner tube, opened along the middle. I gives you a wide, flat and elastic, rubber, that wrapping it, gives homogeeous pressure, and works very well.

First you need to wrap with carbon with some porous plastic. I have done with food film, holed with
an small nail.
7 holed film wrap comp.JPG

Then you need to put a layer that absorve the excess of epoxy. A piece of an old trouser do the work fine too.
8 cloth wrap comp.JPG

Stretch and wrap the inner tube trying not to move the added carbon layers. Before give pressure, all is very loose.
9 stretched rubber wrap comp.JPG

This is the final look after wrapping.
10 stretched rubber fully wrapped comp.JPG
hi jose, amazing work. was thinking whether you can carry out repairs for me. im facing the exact same problem on my FSA crankset.
thanks.
ray

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maxpowers
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:10 pm

by maxpowers

The crank was a write off so kinda fun to attempt to increase my carbon fiber skills.

I did the above procedure but probably used much more CF. An old latex tube felt like more tension than a butyl.

I will slowly stress test it and check for issues before full torque.
Attachments
IMG_2443.JPG

mr2scott
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:39 pm

by mr2scott

Next time you repair a crank like that I would cut out the back of the crank. That way if your repair fails your pedal will hopefully still be connected to the arm. Right now if your repair failed you would pull the insert out of the arm.

maxpowers
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:10 pm

by maxpowers

mr2scott wrote:
Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:47 am
Next time you repair a crank like that I would cut out the back of the crank. That way if your repair fails your pedal will hopefully still be connected to the arm. Right now if your repair failed you would pull the insert out of the arm.
After one opens up the crank arm to remove to insert, its apparent you need the whole length to preserve alignment. also we see how minimal the sram construction is and likely why it failed under heavy load, it should much stronger. The repair has wraps that extend around the back and should not pull away.

hadzray89
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2019 4:39 pm

by hadzray89

maxpowers wrote:
Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:44 pm
mr2scott wrote:
Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:47 am
Next time you repair a crank like that I would cut out the back of the crank. That way if your repair fails your pedal will hopefully still be connected to the arm. Right now if your repair failed you would pull the insert out of the arm.
After one opens up the crank arm to remove to insert, its apparent you need the whole length to preserve alignment. also we see how minimal the sram construction is and likely why it failed under heavy load, it should much stronger. The repair has wraps that extend around the back and should not pull away.
nice work max, keep us updated. im attempting the same repairs as well on my FSA carbon crank

maxpowers
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:10 pm

by maxpowers

hadzray89 wrote:
Fri Feb 22, 2019 3:07 pm
maxpowers wrote:
Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:44 pm
mr2scott wrote:
Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:47 am
Next time you repair a crank like that I would cut out the back of the crank. That way if your repair fails your pedal will hopefully still be connected to the arm. Right now if your repair failed you would pull the insert out of the arm.
After one opens up the crank arm to remove to insert, its apparent you need the whole length to preserve alignment. also we see how minimal the sram construction is and likely why it failed under heavy load, it should much stronger. The repair has wraps that extend around the back and should not pull away.
nice work max, keep us updated. im attempting the same repairs as well on my FSA carbon crank
I'm an amatuer, and my first purchase of the CF cloth was much stiffer to the touch and directional as opposed to the recent '3k weave' item from ebay. I used the stiff stuff and tried to oppose the directions of the layers and I'm satified with the testing so far, performance is solid. time will tell.

User avatar
Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

Hi, does anyone know, if there are some series of cranks that are more affected than others?

I saw a lot of BB30 FSA K-Force cranks with loose pedal inserts, but that was ten (?) years ago.

Is this really a problem with newer GXP SRAM Red cranks?

Or has anyone had issues with older 5-arm BB386 FSA SL-K or K-Force cranks, those I am also running...

Mikola
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:43 pm

by Mikola

Beaver wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:33 pm
Is this really a problem with newer GXP SRAM Red cranks?
FWIW, I've just noticed play in my left GXP SRAM Red 11-speed crank. Initially I suspected the left bottom bracket bearing is about to die, but after inspection it turned out the aluminum inset in the left crank is loose.

Unlike the cases discussed in this thread, the problem is *not* with the pedal inset, but with the one which is used to connect to the BB spindle.

mike
Resident Pro
Posts: 3024
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 9:42 pm

by mike

This is great work. Thanks so much for sharing!

User avatar
Asphalt70
Posts: 36
Joined: Sun May 22, 2016 9:53 am

by Asphalt70

Mikola wrote:
Beaver wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:33 pm
Is this really a problem with newer GXP SRAM Red cranks?
FWIW, I've just noticed play in my left GXP SRAM Red 11-speed crank. Initially I suspected the left bottom bracket bearing is about to die, but after inspection it turned out the aluminum inset in the left crank is loose.

Unlike the cases discussed in this thread, the problem is *not* with the pedal inset, but with the one which is used to connect to the BB spindle.
Hey, did you try to fix it?
I have same problem. Considering gluing in vacuum chamber.

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Mikola
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:43 pm

by Mikola

Asphalt70 wrote:
Sun Jul 25, 2021 11:18 pm
Mikola wrote:
Beaver wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:33 pm
Is this really a problem with newer GXP SRAM Red cranks?
FWIW, I've just noticed play in my left GXP SRAM Red 11-speed crank. Initially I suspected the left bottom bracket bearing is about to die, but after inspection it turned out the aluminum inset in the left crank is loose.

Unlike the cases discussed in this thread, the problem is *not* with the pedal inset, but with the one which is used to connect to the BB spindle.
Hey, did you try to fix it?
I have same problem. Considering gluing in vacuum chamber.
Hey,

No, I didn't try to fix mine myself - it was sitting at a local SRAM dealer waiting for a replacement by SRAM. Which I finally received recently. It took a few months though, so I had to buy a new crankset to keep riding - now I have 1.5 too many SRAM Red cranksets sitting on the shelf.

If you manage to fix yours - let me know how it goes. I might try to fix mine on one of those long winter nights. Just need to figure out how to get access to a vacuum chamber :)

User avatar
josemari220
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:52 pm

by josemari220

With no experience, I thought that carbon parts were no fixeables, but after more practice, now I think it is a quite easy to work with material. No matter if is a debonded part, a crack, etc, with some basic squills and tools you can repair carbon parts, even build new parts.
I have repaired a cracked frame, I transformed a bsa debonded bottom bracket to PF30 system, some loose pedal crank inserts, some defective brake track rim, a carbon rail broken saddle, a cracked tune saddle, some new desing saddle, etc
I understand some of you don´t trust in reliabilty of theese repairs. Nobody is forced to ride with fixed parts. I will never ride a fixed handlebar, indeed.
Good thing is that carbon can be repaired many times in the same place. Also, materias are cheap, epoxy, carbon cloth, etc. The method to repair parts is variable, depending the shape, etc. You can research how to do.
Regards.
Attachments
DIY cracked seat stays.jpg
DIY Cracked Tune.jpg
DIY SLR clonic saddle.jpg
DIY BSA to PF30.jpg
DIY Tune Kom vx DIY clonic saddle.jpg

User avatar
Asphalt70
Posts: 36
Joined: Sun May 22, 2016 9:53 am

by Asphalt70

Mikola wrote:
Asphalt70 wrote:
Sun Jul 25, 2021 11:18 pm
Mikola wrote:
Beaver wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:33 pm
Is this really a problem with newer GXP SRAM Red cranks?
FWIW, I've just noticed play in my left GXP SRAM Red 11-speed crank. Initially I suspected the left bottom bracket bearing is about to die, but after inspection it turned out the aluminum inset in the left crank is loose.

Unlike the cases discussed in this thread, the problem is *not* with the pedal inset, but with the one which is used to connect to the BB spindle.
Hey, did you try to fix it?
I have same problem. Considering gluing in vacuum chamber.
Hey,

No, I didn't try to fix mine myself - it was sitting at a local SRAM dealer waiting for a replacement by SRAM. Which I finally received recently. It took a few months though, so I had to buy a new crankset to keep riding - now I have 1.5 too many SRAM Red cranksets sitting on the shelf.

If you manage to fix yours - let me know how it goes. I might try to fix mine on one of those long winter nights. Just need to figure out how to get access to a vacuum chamber :)
Sure, I'll let you know Image
I hope I will get to it very soon Image

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