Weight Weenies

naambezet wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 06, 2018 3:27 pm

naambezet wrote: ↑

Sun May 27, 2018 9:58 pm

I also had problems with the RD not responding. Happened two times so far, both times fixed by reconnecting the battery. Haven't taken any actions so far.

Ok, it stopped mid ride responding at all. Battery was full, re-pairing doesn't work. What a piece of shit.

it's not "a piece of shit", it's faulty, warranty time

it showed signs of being faulty, you admit you didn't act on them, now it's gone completely, stuff fails

do you think di2 doesn't fail? or mechanical doesn't fail?

in cycling mechanical failure is typically wear related and gradual, most cyclists probably have that expectation, but when electronics fail there can be little if any warning

thankfully eTap has been pretty smooth for me.. occasionally my blips dont respond if they are the first thing I touch...but if I hit the levers first the blips always work.

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Well I’m just about getting to the end of my patience with mine.
After building mine onto a new tt bike it just would not shift/index correctly everything was checked when building it up derailleur angle etc , road tested it but as stated before up thread in the middle of the cassette if you get it to change up correctly it won’t change down so you end up going down 2 gears then have to come back up one to get the gear you wanted , if you get it to change down the opposite happens .
So as it worked ok on the other bike a few weekends ago I’m thinking what’s going on
So I realised it was a different rear wheel , so I put that in and it worked .
That’s that sorted I thought must be the freehub or something .
Wrong , the wheel which worked was a Zipp 202 with a HG11/34 rear cassette(it was a road/gravel event I did hence the cassette and I use a long cage rear mech) when I put the 11/28 cassette on would not index again tried 2 other cassettes none worked.
Then put the gh800 cassette on the original wheel (303zipp) it worked .
Tried in another wheel Hg800 cassette = worked , put on any std Dura ace, sram, ultegra cassette and it does not.
That’s 3 hours of my life
Tooth profile on the hg800 cassette is different disigned for mtb 1by11 as well as road much steeper ramps/tooth profile.
So I can use my Etap but if I use anything other than a 11/34 hg800 cassette (and that’s the only size they do as far as I can tell ) it won’t index .
Remember I’m on my 2nd rear mech , 2 different bikes .
Thought provoking.

An update on my status with the intermitent dropouts on my setup which aggravated since my last post: my RD has been replaced under warranty by SRAM (I suspect faulty electric motor, however I did not get any comment from SRAM). So at least, they have a respectable Service. The biggest period for me with complete blackout from the RD has been of over 1 hour, so not 20-30 sec, over 1 hour. However, as I said, Contacted SRAM, even recorded a video showing the problem, and in 3 days time I had the new one at my door. I hope I'll be more lucky this time!

Been using the full etap groupset (XG1190 11-28 casette; chain, crankset) with no major issues after some early FD adjustment. Sometimes the chain takes a few more pedal revolutions to shift up in the middle of the cassette but it's an occasional thing only, strange. Most shifts you don't even realise it's already shifted - it's that smooth and quiet. Crashed once and bent the RD hanger but the RD itself is still going strong so i'd say it's pretty robust. The brake levers too have gotten hit hard but only cosmetic damage.

Biggest plus for me is the lack of any cables (mechanical or electric) cluttering or clanging around inside the frame.

Overall I'd say I'm very pleased with Etap and would maybe wish for smaller derraileurs.

419km... Wasn't terribly thrilled.

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not much mileage on that and .5 falls through. looks like you wax your chain as well.

kode54 wrote:not much mileage on that and .5 falls through. looks like you wax your chain as well.

That was only 419km and it didnt fall in but wasnt particularly tight to get in. Had been using Bike Mix from new for the first 340km odd then washed and waxed with Soudal wax for the last 80km of use.

Usually get 4k km out of a 6800 chain.

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fwiw with syn lube i get a few thousand km from a red 22 chain before it's time for a change, i suspect that it's not as long with r&r gold but only been using it a few months

Got a RD that packed in today 11miles into a 68mile ride. HAd to do the remaining ride with 52-32 and 36-32 as my only two gears!

Lest few rides it has occasionally stopped responding for a few shifts and then would just start working again. Then today it packed in for good.

-Swapped Batteries round to no avail(freshly charged the night before)
-Tried shifting using button on RD- no joy
-Tried pairing shifters to to RD and FD again.- FD paired okay as did RD but still no movement

Light on RD comes on when I try and shift in either direction but no movement or any form of noise to indicate a servo trying to work etc.

GOing to speak to my LBS who built the bike up for me a few weeks ago and see if they can speak to Winwave/SRAM as the RD is 13montsh old and I believe they have a 2 year warrenty?

ANyone had similar and know any 'tricks' ?

sounds like it's failed, warranty time

I've had intermittent problems with my wifli rd, my shortcage etap rd was solid for quite a while. I'm getting the same issues, just stops responding, and it's usually when I'm in the largest cog. Sometimes it will start responding again after a few minutes, sometimes I have to remove the batteries, sometimes I have to manually shift via on derailleur buttons. Hasn't totally bricket yet though. Suppose I should go talk to the dealer.

Is the cage the only difference between the regular/short and WiFLi/medium rear derailleurs, or is the whole shape of the parallellogram different?

MayhemSWE wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:11 pm

Is the cage the only difference between the regular/short and WiFLi/medium rear derailleurs, or is the whole shape of the parallellogram different?

no, for instance there's a clear difference in the body, look at the mounting bolt position...

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Can anyone tell me if Wifli or non wifli is better? Sounds like non wifli is problematic at times