Help please... powermeter vs G3 and keeping weight down...

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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xntrickly
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 7:13 pm
Location: North Texas USA

by xntrickly

I've always used a powertap and have grown accustomed to lower numbers than crank-based. Most recent wheels are 6.7 with G3 but they are headed back for a rim issue. Complete bike weighs 6800 grams (finally) with everything and these clincher wheels are 1705 grams. I ride a 3d+ (165mm) with the 4130 adapter for the 30 spindle (pf86 frame). I now realize I am just fine moving to a 24mm spindle and have considered an elsa r with SRAM red or I can keep the existing drive train and move to Power2max. Power2max and abandoning the powertap altogether might be a wash weight-wise even if I pick up a replacement 6.7 wheelset [i]sans[/i] powertap???

Really open to suggestions so feel free to leave them here or PM me.

Thanks.
My really fast midget Giant Propel Advanced SL viewtopic.php?f=10&t=132773&hilit=advanced+sl+propel

xntrickly
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 7:13 pm
Location: North Texas USA

by xntrickly

3 weeks later and I am still no further along in this process... anyone other there able to comment on the weight gains/losses of going to crank-based powermeter and using a lighter rear hub?

At this time, if I went hub-based I have a choice between the enve 4.5s and the 7.8s so would likely opt for the 4.5s as they will be about 100 grams lighter than the 6.7s were???

Any help is appreciated.
My really fast midget Giant Propel Advanced SL viewtopic.php?f=10&t=132773&hilit=advanced+sl+propel

morrisond
Posts: 771
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:34 pm

by morrisond

You have to find a Crank based power that is light.

Power2max is a great Meter but it adds about 180 grams I think - which means you won't get much weight savings.

You don't say what you are running right now now for Gruppo - but your 3D+ cranks look like they are about the same weight as Stock Dura Ace or RED cranks.

This link has some good weights (But no Rotor Weights) http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews- ... k-testing/

If you are running RED - you could do something like a Stages which only adds 20 grams and then run some light rings (Lots of Examples on this site of shaving 50-80 grams on this sight). This would get you below your original crank weight and shave a ton off your rear hub weight.

You could save 200-250 grams in total and still have power.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Add a P2M to your existing crank and ditch the G3. A 240 hub saves you 120ish grams, then - the weight of the rotor spider also. Addind a stages to a red crank will add more than 20g if its not a carbon arm version that in AUD is comparable to the price of a P2M anyway and known to be less reliable.... (Yes I know gen2 etc etc, they're still not as reliable as a p2m/quarq/SRM yet)
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xntrickly
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2005 7:13 pm
Location: North Texas USA

by xntrickly

[quote="Nefarious86"]Add a P2M to your existing crank and ditch the G3. A 240 hub saves you 120ish grams, then - the weight of the rotor spider also. Addind a stages to a red crank will add more than 20g if its not a carbon arm version that in AUD is comparable to the price of a P2M anyway and known to be less reliable.... (Yes I know gen2 etc etc, they're still not as reliable as a p2m/quarq/SRM yet)[/quote]

Thanks everyone. I've contacted P2M and they have said that the spider is an additional 125 grams after removing the Rotor spider. Also, the 3G hub is 330 grams so I would have to have the wheels built up with a rear hub that is at no more than 205 grams to NOT add weight (assuming I went with the same rims/spokes/nipples)... My 3d+ is 735 grams complete with the PF 4130 bearings and qrings. The quarq elsa r is 576 grams without rings and bearings so probably 800 grams - ish complete. Any thing I am missing?


Thanks !!
My really fast midget Giant Propel Advanced SL viewtopic.php?f=10&t=132773&hilit=advanced+sl+propel

Marin
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

Keep the Powertap and go to a RED crank with Extralite rings?

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Marin wrote:Keep the Powertap and go to a RED crank with Extralite rings?

And till be tied to one set of wheels...
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gavin
Posts: 57
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 9:33 pm

by gavin

I had a g3 powertap and it was a great PM but when the spokes on the wheel snapped i looked at other options and found stages to be lighter as well as an upgrade in wheel was possible. The powertap was built into a mavic open pro but i went and bought some fulcrum racing zero wheels which were noticably better.

The other main difference was the stages has software upgrades done via bluetooth so no need to plug in the powertap any more.

Pleased i changed and stages has been very reliable for me

morrisond
Posts: 771
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:34 pm

by morrisond

Marin wrote:Keep the Powertap and go to a RED crank with Extralite rings?


Exactly! Like I said above and then run a Stages Carbon Arm. You would probably lose about 250 grams off your Cranks and then run something like a Tune Mag 170 in the back to lose another 160 and presto you lose almost a a full pound!

This is Weightweenies.

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