Maybe your drops are too big? What's the relationship between viscosity and surface tension? Maybe SS is thinner (lower viscosity)? Which lube penetrates the chain better? I don't pay attention to what drips on the floor since I lube in the garage, but I don't use the drop per link method. I run a line of lube on the bottom run of the chain at the gap between the roller and the side plate while turning the cranks.TobinHatesYou wrote:joshatsilca wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:13 pm
For Tobin, This is the surface tension we are seeing in Gen3 SuperSecret, I'd be interested to see what you are seeing in your bottle. My one thought is that your lube could have frozen at some point in transit to you which definitely causes it to separate out in a way that the surface tension is dramatically reduced and the lube becomes very thin and runny.IMG_1525.jpg
Maybe surface tension isn't the right term because comparing between the two, Super Secret seems to have more surface tension it itself.
Here's a video of the surface adhesion (fluid slip??) difference between two drops of Super Secret and UFO: https://imgur.com/kh1soGZ
Super Secret is a lot more runny. I can get one drop to "balance" on the roller, but two will cause it to migrate to the bottom and drip off. Two drops of UFO won't budge. They behave differently once cured as well. If I backpedal my chain with UFO, it sheds as a fine powder. Super Secret's sheddings are definitely larger and perhaps a little gummier. I have no idea how this effects performance or durability, but UFO is definitely easier to apply. I can drag the bottle along the chain and not lose a single drop. If I do the same with Super Secret, it seems like 1/3 of it ends up on my floor.
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The cheapest you can get. I have a $10 one. Goes to its temperature and then I turn off, takes longer but i never have to clean it or worry and if it breaks I replace it.MikeD wrote:I'm getting ready to try hot waxing again (after a 20 year hiatus). What slow cooker should I get?
I picked up a 1 1/2 qt. from Target two or three years ago which was like $11 at the time. I'd stick with a smaller model 1 1/2 - 2 qts. Thrift stores are also a good source if they happen to have any smaller ones in stock.
The best per Josh from Silva is an insta pot. That's not cheap though. If you happen to already have an insta pot you can just buy a new liner for it.
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Same here. You can always add a lcd temp display and put the sensor into the wax bath to know exactly how hot it is. Plus a sieve or something to remove the chain from the cooker. That's 30 usd max for a good and perfectly reliable setupdialtone wrote:The cheapest you can get. I have a $10 one. Goes to its temperature and then I turn off, takes longer but i never have to clean it or worry and if it breaks I replace it.MikeD wrote:I'm getting ready to try hot waxing again (after a 20 year hiatus). What slow cooker should I get?
My Silca SS Gen3 is not evenly colored as in your photo. It looks similar to tobin's, a lot of dark pieces in the lube, which I suppose to be WS2, but definitely not 'Nano-Scale'. I tried to shake hard, and even tried to heat it up with a hair dryer and then shake hard. ONLY slightly better.joshatsilca wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:13 pmThanks for the feedback, glad to hear it's working so well for you.DieselCondor wrote: ↑Tue Dec 07, 2021 10:36 pmThis is my first UK winter using silca super secret exclusively. I wish I had converted sooner!
I'd used it in the summertime on one bike and was satisfied but now it's on all our bikes.
So much easier to keep the bikes clean.
The secret is to really deep clean the chain prior to prep.
For Tobin, This is the surface tension we are seeing in Gen3 SuperSecret, I'd be interested to see what you are seeing in your bottle. My one thought is that your lube could have frozen at some point in transit to you which definitely causes it to separate out in a way that the surface tension is dramatically reduced and the lube becomes very thin and runny.IMG_1525.jpg
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Rode Friday in rain 2h on a fresh chain. Still smooth though you heard some cracking from sand.Cubist wrote: ↑Mon Dec 06, 2021 5:20 pmAs a long time MSW user I am in need of some advise for winter riding.
What is a good option with varying conditions? Is it wise to top up the chain after a wet ride with a drip lube like smoove?, or is it best to put boiling water on the chain and then re-wax?
The wax seems to stop working after 1,5 hour of riding in wet weather.
Anybody found the best method for winter riding?
Rain is by all means the worst as it carries grit easily into the rollers so wear goes up. ANY top up of lube just makes stuff worse creating a nice grinding paste. NO lube can clear the grit so the only proper solution is the clean the chain by flushing it (whatever the lube). And that is exactly where proper hot wax is brilliant. All the rest is a waste of time money and lube I ride 3 chains in rotation and after I'm home when riding in rain I heat up an old kettle pop the chain in and cook it while I'm quickly hosing the bike to clear it from sand.
10min job for cleaning the bike and chain. The chain is then put in a towel and I swing it with vigour the clear the water and drop in the waiting cupboard for the next wax.
So easy and no faff. And because I run 3 chains the chances are slim that I need to wax more then once in a week in wintertime.
Btw I'm currently on 12.5k with my 3 chains, chainrings and cassette and All chains are still below .2 wear
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wickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sun Dec 12, 2021 9:11 pm
Btw I'm currently on 12.5k with my 3 chains, chainrings and cassette and All chains are still below .2 wear
How are you measuring .2%? The Park Tool gauge with the movable pin? I wouldn’t trust that gauge over a three-pronged go/no-go type, though yes 12.5K split three ways is not a lot. My chains have 30000km split between them and are all comfortably <.5%.
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Idd. But it is good enough and I measure on several points. I'm getting another gauge And to be honest I have been quite lazy about the waxing. Sometimes running beyond the advised rewax interval. And doing winter rides at lot. But given that if I can get 8k per chain it's cool for me.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 12, 2021 9:20 pmwickedstealthy wrote: ↑Sun Dec 12, 2021 9:11 pm
Btw I'm currently on 12.5k with my 3 chains, chainrings and cassette and All chains are still below .2 wear
How are you measuring .2%? The Park Tool gauge with the movable pin? I wouldn’t trust that gauge over a three-pronged go/no-go type, though yes 12.5K split three ways is not a lot. My chains have 30000km split between them and are all comfortably <.5%.
Previous winter I ruined a cassette, chain ansd chainring in one go with that lubes. Never for me again
That said I will be a lot more carefull with my new bike and dura-ace as the costs are much higher But the new MSW formula is also a lot better so very cool for me.
I use a 3L ultrasonic cleaner to wax my chains.
Heat it up to 60º, put in chain, start ultrasonic cycle for 10 mins. Heats up to around 75º, remove, cool. Chain is rock hard (great penetration/ adhesion).
Heat it up to 60º, put in chain, start ultrasonic cycle for 10 mins. Heats up to around 75º, remove, cool. Chain is rock hard (great penetration/ adhesion).
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Just barely. Melted food grade Gulf-brand wax starts to form a crust at around 58C. Penetration would normally be pretty poor, though I suppose an ultrasonic cleaner would help. Personally I heat the wax up to almost 95C.