Something definitely seems wrong. I just saw Ronald Kuba's video and on his bike the wedge only moves a little, certainly not to the extent of going above the vector wings. The starting position of the wedge looks correct, but somehow the cable pull from the lever pulls the wedge much higher vertically on mine.
I did check the wedge's rotation by letting it hang naturally, here's a photo. It's almost entirely straight with a very slight tilt to one side, but that wouldn't explain why the wedge is running into the wings on both sides, not just one.
Quick question: when you install the brakes, do you first screw the springs into the frame? That's what I had to do and thought it strange that it wasn't mentioned in the manual.
Seeking feedback on New Madone 9.9
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- wheelbuilder
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Don't try to remove the springs from the locater pin. Remove the brake fixing bolts and let the arms dangle loose. Then remove the cable stop. Keep the whole thing together as one piece. The cable stop/spring assembly is effectively part of the brakes and it all comes off/goes on together
Never cheer before you know who is winning
Thanks, issue is resolved. The cable was about 5mm too short so I got a new cable and set up the calipers closer to the rims. Now the wedge doesn't rise past the wings.wheelbuilder wrote:Don't try to remove the springs from the locater pin. Remove the brake fixing bolts and let the arms dangle loose. Then remove the cable stop. Keep the whole thing together as one piece. The cable stop/spring assembly is effectively part of the brakes and it all comes off/goes on together
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Great news! Nice work.......
Never cheer before you know who is winning
Sweet baby Jesus the rattle. Trek Madone 9, eTap...blah, blah, blah but the rattle. It's maddening. I've taken my bike to so many shops and either they all think I'm crazy or none of them know what the heck they're doing. The problem started immediately upon the building of my bike. I was even told my Madone was the first one the shop mechanic built. So I went from mechanical to eTap. That didn't solve the proble. Then the mechanic shoved some rubber crap in the handlebars. That hasn't stopped it. Even thought it was the access plate rattling against the junction box. It's not the tube stems. It's not the bottle cage. It's driving me bat-sh!t crazy.
WHAT THE DEUCE?
WHAT THE DEUCE?
- wheelbuilder
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There should be a length of hose insulation running the length of the rear brake housing through the top tube. It is an easy oversight to forget this and then not want to take the whole thing apart and re-install it when the mechanic realizes he/she forgot it. The bike will rattle like absolute crazy if this is not installed. Take your bike to Trek Dealer and have them check.pmancusi wrote: ↑Wed Dec 05, 2018 4:09 pmSweet baby Jesus the rattle. Trek Madone 9, eTap...blah, blah, blah but the rattle. It's maddening. I've taken my bike to so many shops and either they all think I'm crazy or none of them know what the heck they're doing. The problem started immediately upon the building of my bike. I was even told my Madone was the first one the shop mechanic built. So I went from mechanical to eTap. That didn't solve the proble. Then the mechanic shoved some rubber crap in the handlebars. That hasn't stopped it. Even thought it was the access plate rattling against the junction box. It's not the tube stems. It's not the bottle cage. It's driving me bat-sh!t crazy.
WHAT THE DEUCE?
Never cheer before you know who is winning
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This.wheelbuilder wrote: ↑Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:19 pm
There should be a length of hose insulation running the length of the rear brake housing through the top tube. It is an easy oversight to forget this and then not want to take the whole thing apart and re-install it when the mechanic realizes he/she forgot it. The bike will rattle like absolute crazy if this is not installed. Take your bike to Trek Dealer and have them check.