Seeking feedback on New Madone 9.9

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
CanadianBiker
Posts: 98
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 2:34 pm

by CanadianBiker

RodeBaron51 - I find it odd as mine has 0 paint chips at all on the bike (I have the RSL) nor does my son (the grey/greenish demo that was sent to all stores). Combine we probably have almost 5000kms and only have had 1 flat. Our bikes both came with the Bont R3, his flat was when he hit a piece of metal on the road and it slice through the tire (see picture below). We've since upgraded to the R4 for him as he's racing in the provincial championships and he loves them.

As for the stickers on the Aeolus 5, I agree and I have to be extremely careful when I wash my bike (which is after every single ride) as I'm always scared I will start peeling the stickers off.

My only regret is I changed my crank to a 52/36 as I was thinking I would do much more flats but the more I ride and especially for my sons training the more we are hitting hills and a 50/34 would of been a better choice but outside of that this is by far the best bike I've ever had.

I was travelling for work last week and went for a ride with clients and I rented an F8, I think the F8 is a great bike but the M9 is a notch above at least in term of fit and comfort for me.

btw son has the paradigm Elite wheels on his and they have performed well, however next year I will most likely be looking at upgrading them and we are going to most likely go with Bora's however right now I am still trying to get my wallet to recover from buying 2 Madones this year.
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Isaac1207
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2016 5:23 am

by Isaac1207

DA123, same frame dilemma here, H1 or H2, like the looks of H1 though, and I was about to pull the trigger on a Madone until I stumbled with your review. This rattling stuff scares the heck out of me, as you said, you're gonna dig 9K on a bike, better be hell of a bike.

Actually I ride a Spesh Tarmac, and I'm looking for an upgrade. My options are Tarmac S-Works, BMC SLR01 and MADONE 9. I'm more inclined with the Madone, good reviews across the board, allrounder, only the rattling issue is keeping me off, also climbing abilities......is it as good for climbing also?

Any experiences and thoughts between my options, will be welcomed....

by Weenie


Isaac1207
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2016 5:23 am

by Isaac1207

rodebaron51 wrote:Just ordered my madone 9.9 ;-)
H1 62cm
Trek segafredo color
120mm 44cm steer
Vector 2 pedals
Ceramic speed BB
Shimano Di2
Aerolus 5 clincher
XXXL saddle

should be here end of June


Can you share your experience? How is H1 frame? Can get used to it for longer rides? I'm just quoting the same specs, except I'm going with eTAP and ENVE 4.5 wheels

Isaac1207
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2016 5:23 am

by Isaac1207

pdlpsher1 wrote:
CanadianBiker wrote:I got my new madone yesterday and I took it out for a ride and I have to say either the bike is incredible or the placebo effect in me is huge. I've never been anywhere near the top 20 in any of the segments on Strava in my area. In my ride today I got a top 4 and a few other top 10 segments. I've gone from a 53/39 chainring to a 52/36 and many of the climbs in the past I've had to drop to the lower chainring at the front, today I never left the big ring at the front on any of my climbs and have recorded my best times ever, leaving many of my mates in the dust.

In comparing to my previous bike, it is much lighter and easier to climb with. The aero of the bike and my positioning of the bike have added about 2-3km/h on the flats at the exact same power and all of this on an extremely comfortable bike.

I know I spent a fortune but I love my new Madone.



Haha. Very nice! I know the feeling! I got my aero bike and set a new PR on a 55min. climb averaging 5% :D I have a bunch of Strava PRs on both flat and climbing segments and a new KOM! I know I'm pushing a bit harder as I needed to justify the new purchase, LOL. So I believe it's a combination of real aero benefits plus some placebo effect. In any case it's the best money I've spent.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your new aero toy. I still smile every time I ride mine.

You need to post some pics of your new steed!



Hi, your aerobike is a Madone??

da123
Posts: 169
Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:42 am

by da123

Isaac1207 wrote:DA123, same frame dilemma here, H1 or H2, like the looks of H1 though, and I was about to pull the trigger on a Madone until I stumbled with your review. This rattling stuff scares the heck out of me, as you said, you're gonna dig 9K on a bike, better be hell of a bike.

Actually I ride a Spesh Tarmac, and I'm looking for an upgrade. My options are Tarmac S-Works, BMC SLR01 and MADONE 9. I'm more inclined with the Madone, good reviews across the board, allrounder, only the rattling issue is keeping me off, also climbing abilities......is it as good for climbing also?

Any experiences and thoughts between my options, will be welcomed....


The rattling is frustrating, to the point that I would say you need to trust and have a good relationship with your bike shop. I basically just took it back continually until they got it sorted. It is now rattle free however. It is not a bike I would want to self maintain though, and I'm pretty competent in general.

I would go for the H1 if you can, as having owned both in a 52 size, I think the better carbon makes it a better bike. It is 150 grams or so lighter, and just feels like a more lively ride. I think it is a decent climbing bike, but not exceptional. My canyon climbs better, although that is 5.5kg vs 6.2kg for the Madone. In all other respects, the Madone is better. It is stiffer, faster everywhere apart from steep climbs and more comfortable. It makes you want to ride at the limit, but it doesn't kick the crap out of you. The aero bars I find really comfortable on the tops. The proprietary brakes are decent, although possibly a notch below dura ace. They are the equal of the EEs I have on the canyon.

Hope this helps!

asc8ic
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2016 7:41 pm

by asc8ic

Etap will be good choice at Madone 9.x, because cabling is a little tricky.
Surly, not as much as TT bike. but over than normal internal cable bike.

rodebaron51
Posts: 348
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Netherlands

by rodebaron51

Isaac1207 wrote:
rodebaron51 wrote:Just ordered my madone 9.9 ;-)
H1 62cm
Trek segafredo color
120mm 44cm steer
Vector 2 pedals
Ceramic speed BB
Shimano Di2
Aerolus 5 clincher
XXXL saddle

should be here end of June


Can you share your experience? How is H1 frame? Can get used to it for longer rides? I'm just quoting the same specs, except I'm going with eTAP and ENVE 4.5 wheels



Hi Isaac,

Sure, happy to.
I had the Dogma F8 before and still have a C59.
2 weeks ago I had a crash with my Mad-one (slipped in a corner), so had to use the C59 again. I still like the C59 as it feels lighter and more smooth.

However, the Mad-one is definitely faster!
The comfort level is good (iso speed does its job). I did up to 150K this year and no problem. Don't worry about that!
H1 is more aggressive, but it is absolutely not overdone. I am happy I choose H1 as H2 looks are not that nice in bigger sizes.
I have some 4cm spacers, but due to the bulkiness that does not look strange at all. On the other hand, even with the spacers, it is more aggressive forward vs the C59. But not a problem at all...
Di2 is nice and does its job, but really deep inside I am a Campy SR EPS fan...
Wheels are fast.
Overall I am really happy with the bike and can't wait until its ready again.
One of the main points on the bike besides performance is for me the looks... such nice curves... ;-)

Pascal
Pascal

2012 Colnago C59 MTBK Camapgnolo Hyperon Ultra 2 and Campi SR11
2014 Merida Big 99 CF team fully
2015 Pinarello F8 Sky Campagnolo Bora Utra 2 and Campi SR11 EPS (RIP after crash)
2016 Trek Mad-One Limited Team Edition


rodebaron51
Posts: 348
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Netherlands

by rodebaron51

cyclespeed wrote:Wow, 150k? Isn't that maybe 15?!


Sorry.. I ment 150KM single training... ;-)
I am just back from my ride where I cracked 12000KM this year.... app 5K on the Mad-One done...
Pascal

2012 Colnago C59 MTBK Camapgnolo Hyperon Ultra 2 and Campi SR11
2014 Merida Big 99 CF team fully
2015 Pinarello F8 Sky Campagnolo Bora Utra 2 and Campi SR11 EPS (RIP after crash)
2016 Trek Mad-One Limited Team Edition

nelson1j
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:03 pm

by nelson1j

Hi

Am looking for some help with a sticking rear brake on a Madone 9.2. I have installed a new brake, and when you pull the lever for the first time there is no slack in the cable. After the first pull, the wedge doesn't return to its original position. This means that there is slack in the lever and the brake blocks sit closer to the rear wheel, which results in an annoying rattle when riding over rought rode with hands on the hoods.

I am thinking either the springs in the brake assembly are stretched and need replacing, or I have too much housing in the top tube (it an be a challenge to push the housing back into the frame below the seat post). The brake assembly has a number of seized bolts which have been replaced as I use the bike all year and it has needed to be freed off a couple of times where it gets dirt in it.

Ive added DI2 recently and Zipp 404 wheels, really like it.

Any advice, suggestions would be great.




James

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FIJIGabe
Posts: 1563
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

nelson1j wrote:
Wed Aug 15, 2018 7:48 am
Hi

Am looking for some help with a sticking rear brake on a Madone 9.2. I have installed a new brake, and when you pull the lever for the first time there is no slack in the cable. After the first pull, the wedge doesn't return to its original position. This means that there is slack in the lever and the brake blocks sit closer to the rear wheel, which results in an annoying rattle when riding over rought rode with hands on the hoods.

I am thinking either the springs in the brake assembly are stretched and need replacing, or I have too much housing in the top tube (it an be a challenge to push the housing back into the frame below the seat post). The brake assembly has a number of seized bolts which have been replaced as I use the bike all year and it has needed to be freed off a couple of times where it gets dirt in it.

Ive added DI2 recently and Zipp 404 wheels, really like it.

Any advice, suggestions would be great.




James
I've had that problem. It takes a little bit of fiddling, but it isn't a major problem. Take the wheels and brake pads off, take the cover off (2mm allen screws, if memory serves), and clean it THOROUGHLY. I mean really clean it: spray your cleaner of choice into the various nooks and crannies of that thing, and give it a good scrubbing. Once that's done, try to hit it with some compressed air, to dry it out. Finally, hit all of the moving parts with some good lube. Personally, I use dry chain lube, as it leaves less of a mess, and tends to not get galled up in the long-term.

Once you've cleaned it out, then reassemble. Personally, I take the brake and return it to a known "neutral", where everything is even, left and right. I have the same bike (9.2 w/ 404 Firecrests). Don't ignore the spring setting, though. I doubt it's "stretched" as you fear, it just may be set too lose, so it won't return the spring as you want it.

If you have any questions, just shoot me a PM, and I can explain things further.
Madone 9 https://goo.gl/7UwZpV
Crockett https://goo.gl/f5PdCN
Madone 5 https://goo.gl/cMdyFo

Madone 4, Cobia. I own a lot of Treks.

Mep
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 4:11 pm

by Mep

I'm running into a different braking situation, or should I say observation. Does the front brake interfere with the vector wings when the handlebar is at an angle?

I'm trying to figure out if mine is just not properly set up or if this is expected. Attached is a picture. You can see the wedge driving into the vector wings when the handlebar is at an angle and I pull the front brakes. Image

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wheelbuilder
Posts: 530
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am

by wheelbuilder

Check in with others, cause it has been a while since I have worked on one of these, but I have built a lot of them. Is the wedge being twisted by the rotational force of the cable one way or another? Simple terms being......... if you pull the wedge out of the roller/brake arm assembly and just let it hang, does it stay perfectly flat or is it wanting to rotate? If it is rotating, loosen the two T-8 pinch bolts and arrange the wedge so it runs flat for its pull. Make sure you have the wedge positioned so that at close to full lever pull the top of the wedge hits the bottom of the cable stop and won't pull through the rollers. The wedge looks too far forward to me in these photos and this can be cause by having it slightly rotated on the cable. Also ensure you are using the right wedge. They are F R specific. I have seen the wedge graze the inside of the vector wings and make a lot of noise, but never the edge of the wedge overlapping and catching on the vector wing edge like your photo is showing. that can be remedied by applying tough plastic tape to the nose of the cable stop so it contacts the vector wings a little sooner and opens the wing slightly farther. If you are not a home mech, take it to a Trek dealer.

Mep
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 4:11 pm

by Mep

wheelbuilder wrote:Check in with others, cause it has been a while since I have worked on one of these, but I have built a lot of them. Is the wedge being twisted by the rotational force of the cable one way or another? Simple terms being......... if you pull the wedge out of the roller/brake arm assembly and just let it hang, does it stay perfectly flat or is it wanting to rotate? If it is rotating, loosen the two T-8 pinch bolts and arrange the wedge so it runs flat for its pull. Make sure you have the wedge positioned so that at close to full lever pull the top of the wedge hits the bottom of the cable stop and won't pull through the rollers. The wedge looks too far forward to me in these photos and this can be cause by having it slightly rotated on the cable. Also ensure you are using the right wedge. They are F R specific. I have seen the wedge graze the inside of the vector wings and make a lot of noise, but never the edge of the wedge overlapping and catching on the vector wing edge like your photo is showing. that can be remedied by applying tough plastic tape to the nose of the cable stop so it contacts the vector wings a little sooner and opens the wing slightly farther. If you are not a home mech, take it to a Trek dealer.
It's the right wedge and doesn't appear to rotate. Here's a picture of the wedge without brakes engaged, and another with brakes engaged. You can see the wedge hides behind the vector wing when the handlebar is pointing straight. At an angle, the wedge runs into the vector wing that is extended.

Is the wedge supposed to rise so far as to hide behind the vector wing in the normal position?ImageImage

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wheelbuilder
Posts: 530
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am

by wheelbuilder

No. Yours is at the correct height. What I meant by "grazing the inside of the vector wing" was when the bars were turned like you describe, the top front surface of the wedge would rub the inside of one of the doors. It wouldn't catch the bottom edge of the door as it appears to do in your photo. Something is wrong. I still think the wedge maybe rotating slightly when you engage the brakes and this can push it forward so it makes contact with the door. Did you let it just hang naturally? Remove the vector wings so you can see the cable, release the wedge from the brake arms and let it just hang by the cable in front of the brakes, or if need be remove the front brake entirely so you can observe the wedge hanging free by the cable. If it even slightly tries to turn one way or the other, re-position it on the cable until it is perfectly flat. Or you can find a way to build up the nose of the cable stop (which is the first thing to contact the doors) Or slide the clear plastic tubing that is on the housing further down onto the cable stop so it hits the door and opens it further so your wedge will clear. Do you have that piece of thick clear tubing over the housing? In any event, judging by your photo, don't pull the brakes hard when the bars are turned for now as it looks like the wedge is catching and can damage the doors. Keep in mind I'm basing all of this advise off of memory.

by Weenie


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