201X Allez Sprint

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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silvalis
Posts: 699
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 1:02 am
Location: Aus

by silvalis

quadlt250 wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:35 am


Wine tour on Kinlin 31t training wheels (and added Sram hydraulic brakes)[
Are the hydraulic rimbrakes are worth it?
Chasse patate

quadlt250
Posts: 38
Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2015 10:25 pm

by quadlt250

silvalis wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 1:24 am
Are the hydraulic rimbrakes are worth it?
I love them. They're incredibly smooth, and grab insanely hard when you really want them to.
For descending in the mountains, they're amazing, but for regular riding/racing the advantage is probably neglible (i'm one of those who doesn't feel the need for better braking than a plain mechanical rim brake, and i ride aluminum rims when im not racing)

by Weenie


akdmx
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed May 08, 2019 11:08 pm

by akdmx

I'm having trouble setting up a SRAM red brake caliper in the rear. It seems that the cable housing is "pushing" the caliper out of adjustment when cycling the brakes. This issue isn't apparent with the stock Shimano 105 calipers where the housing doesn't move as much (or at all?)

Has anyone wrestled with this? One suggestion I got was to try the jagwire link cable housing though even that isn't straight forward as the kits I see for sale aren't for full-length housing like the Allez. Has anyone else run in to this issue and solved it successfully? The front caliper shows a little bit of the same issue though to a lesser degree as the bend in the front cable housing naturally provides some slack for the caliper.

Hexsense
Posts: 933
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

Sometime stiff housing do it.
Change to link type housing (like Jagwire Elite Link) should solve that issue. Jagwire did (not sure if they do) have an xl kit for full routing or extra large framesize.
If not then your best bet would be to buy two kits, then save extra inner cable and inner sleeve for recabling next time.

akdmx
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed May 08, 2019 11:08 pm

by akdmx

To elaborate a bit more -- on the 52CM allez (my size) the cable housing is basically a straight shot rearwards from the frame exit to the caliper. For this reason I'm a bit skeptical of the Jagwire fix since there isn't so much flexing of the housing going on as there is pulling.

akdmx
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed May 08, 2019 11:08 pm

by akdmx

OK - another question. My seatpost has developed a tiny amount of fore-aft play. I initially suspected the saddle was rocking but pulled the saddle and mounting hardware off to clean and grease and noticed that the bare post was still demonstrating the slight play I was noticing. I pulled the post and wiped it clean and cleaned and regreated the seat collar. I'm sure I'm over-torqueing the seat collar already.

Anyone have experience with this? There is a ton of post inserted in the seat tube. The movement is extremely slight and doesnt seem to be allowing the post to slip down.

Brynhildr
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:02 pm

by Brynhildr

akdmx wrote:OK - another question. My seatpost has developed a tiny amount of fore-aft play. I initially suspected the saddle was rocking but pulled the saddle and mounting hardware off to clean and grease and noticed that the bare post was still demonstrating the slight play I was noticing. I pulled the post and wiped it clean and cleaned and regreated the seat collar. I'm sure I'm over-torqueing the seat collar already.

Anyone have experience with this? There is a ton of post inserted in the seat tube. The movement is extremely slight and doesnt seem to be allowing the post to slip down.
I had some slippage before, carbon paste on the seatpost fixed the problem.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2 using Tapatalk


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IrrelevantD
Posts: 401
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
Location: Near DFW Airport

by IrrelevantD

akdmx wrote:
Sat Aug 03, 2019 7:49 pm
OK - another question. My seatpost has developed a tiny amount of fore-aft play. I initially suspected the saddle was rocking but pulled the saddle and mounting hardware off to clean and grease and noticed that the bare post was still demonstrating the slight play I was noticing. I pulled the post and wiped it clean and cleaned and regreated the seat collar. I'm sure I'm over-torqueing the seat collar already.

Anyone have experience with this? There is a ton of post inserted in the seat tube. The movement is extremely slight and doesnt seem to be allowing the post to slip down.
If you're getting movement, not slippage, and you think you've over-torqued the clamp, I'd take it to a shop and have it looked at. My concern would be that over-torquing it has damaged the post.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

akdmx
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed May 08, 2019 11:08 pm

by akdmx

I've applied carbon paste and still get some movement. Will see about possibly acquiring a replacement seatpost.

Edit: posts seem to be going for more than I expected. May try a thin shim first. Bit hack-job but its a cheap bike anyway.

dcorn
Posts: 321
Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 4:21 pm
Location: NoVA

by dcorn

akdmx wrote:
Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:10 pm
To elaborate a bit more -- on the 52CM allez (my size) the cable housing is basically a straight shot rearwards from the frame exit to the caliper. For this reason I'm a bit skeptical of the Jagwire fix since there isn't so much flexing of the housing going on as there is pulling.
Your problem is the full length housing slipping back and forth inside the frame and not being held in place. I have the same issue with my 54cm frame, but I don't find it affects braking performance.

The link style brake housing should fix it because the links on the front and the rear don't let the cable move back and forth in the frame. There is a fixed length of links that sticks out behind the top tube leading to the caliper, so the caliper shouldn't move in relation to the frame.

As far as the seatpost, I'm having a similar problem. I'm 205 lbs and we have rough roads, so the seatpost doesn't really like staying in position. I'm using carbon paste and I've got the binder tightened way down, probably higher than the torque spec. I think it finally stopped slipping, but I am worried about the clamp being too tight and possibly digging into the seatpost.

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IrrelevantD
Posts: 401
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
Location: Near DFW Airport

by IrrelevantD

dcorn wrote:
Mon Aug 05, 2019 10:14 pm
akdmx wrote:
Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:10 pm
To elaborate a bit more -- on the 52CM allez (my size) the cable housing is basically a straight shot rearwards from the frame exit to the caliper. For this reason I'm a bit skeptical of the Jagwire fix since there isn't so much flexing of the housing going on as there is pulling.
Your problem is the full length housing slipping back and forth inside the frame and not being held in place. I have the same issue with my 54cm frame, but I don't find it affects braking performance.

The link style brake housing should fix it because the links on the front and the rear don't let the cable move back and forth in the frame. There is a fixed length of links that sticks out behind the top tube leading to the caliper, so the caliper shouldn't move in relation to the frame.

As far as the seatpost, I'm having a similar problem. I'm 205 lbs and we have rough roads, so the seatpost doesn't really like staying in position. I'm using carbon paste and I've got the binder tightened way down, probably higher than the torque spec. I think it finally stopped slipping, but I am worried about the clamp being too tight and possibly digging into the seatpost.
I fluctuate between 200 and 215 and I’m not seeing the seatpost issues you guys are having. The only suggestion I could maybe make would be to make sure you’re evening out the tension between the bolts as you tighten the clamp down. I’d also strongly recommend getting some form of a torque meter. Even one of the pre-set 5nm one would work. Almost every bolt is going to be between 4.5 and 6nm with the exception of the saddle clamp, which is like 10-12.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.


Brynhildr
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:02 pm

by Brynhildr

CrankAddictsRich wrote:I got to photograph a really unique Allez the other day... to see more details, check the gram.

Image

Image
That's amazing, love the pattern and the colors.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2 using Tapatalk


wolfesquire
Posts: 263
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 3:03 am

by wolfesquire

So when do you think Specialized will revamp the allez sprint? Yes, they brought out disc, but what about an overhaul?

by Weenie


Monkeyfudger
Posts: 309
Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:26 pm

by Monkeyfudger

What needs revamping on it? Is it any wonder that we get new standards etc constantly when all some consumers care about is “what’s next”.

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