201x Specialized Allez Sprint DSW and Gen2
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100mm in that pic, went to 130mm and now settled at 120mm (new pics a few pages back)
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Hi guys,
does anyone use S-Works Powercranks on an Allez Sprint?
Is there enough room for the left crank arm on the chainstay?
Thanks for the information
does anyone use S-Works Powercranks on an Allez Sprint?
Is there enough room for the left crank arm on the chainstay?
Thanks for the information
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- Posts: 246
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2016 2:09 am
I am looking at replacing my BB in my allez sprint and looking for recommendations at which one I should get. I have s-works cranks and stock praxis chainrings at the moment. Am I stuck with press fit bearings as my only option?
- IrrelevantD
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I haven't put my hands on the S-Works cranks, but IIRC, those are BB30 spindled cranks, right? If that's the case, I don't *think* there are many other options than PF cartarage bearings, at least I don't know of any. Personally, I'd go with angular contact. You have to preload them a little bit more, Enduro recomends something like 5-7nm, but they should last longer and personally I haven't seen any noticiable difference in drag or friction.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 3:40 pmI am looking at replacing my BB in my allez sprint and looking for recommendations at which one I should get. I have s-works cranks and stock praxis chainrings at the moment. Am I stuck with press fit bearings as my only option?
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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I have these ones here. Now I have press fit bearingsIrrelevantD wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 4:17 pmI haven't put my hands on the S-Works cranks, but IIRC, those are BB30 spindled cranks, right? If that's the case, I don't *think* there are many other options than PF cartarage bearings, at least I don't know of any. Personally, I'd go with angular contact. You have to preload them a little bit more, Enduro recomends something like 5-7nm, but they should last longer and personally I haven't seen any noticiable difference in drag or friction.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 3:40 pmI am looking at replacing my BB in my allez sprint and looking for recommendations at which one I should get. I have s-works cranks and stock praxis chainrings at the moment. Am I stuck with press fit bearings as my only option?
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I replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
- IrrelevantD
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How long have you had the frame? I've developed some minor griding in my bottom headset bearing. So far I've been able to pull the fork, remove the dust seal, clean it out really good and re-pack some grease in there to get it to smooth out a bit for a few months. I've done that probably 3-4 times now. My personal thoughts are that the bottom bearing is a a bit susceptable to water ingress. As for your top cap torque, that's about what I torque my to as well. I ocasionally get a little play, or a *thunk* under heavy breaking, so I usuallay go to about 5nm and then give it an extra 1/8th turn before I tighten down my stem.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 4:36 pmI replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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I’ve had the bike for a couple years, but it was fine before I swapped the stem. I haven’t really put many miles on the bike under 1kIrrelevantD wrote:How long have you had the frame? I've developed some minor griding in my bottom headset bearing. So far I've been able to pull the fork, remove the dust seal, clean it out really good and re-pack some grease in there to get it to smooth out a bit for a few months. I've done that probably 3-4 times now. My personal thoughts are that the bottom bearing is a a bit susceptable to water ingress. As for your top cap torque, that's about what I torque my to as well. I ocasionally get a little play, or a *thunk* under heavy breaking, so I usuallay go to about 5nm and then give it an extra 1/8th turn before I tighten down my stem.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 4:36 pmI replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
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- IrrelevantD
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Yea, that seems pretty low milage for a bearing issue, especially headset. Does it feel like it's binding, or is it that notchy/gravelly, "dirt in the bearings" feel? If it feels like it's binding, maybe too much preload on the top cap? Might be worth it to just pull the fork and spin the bearings with your finger to see how they feel. If you can feel something sticking just moving the bearing with your fingers, there's definately a bigger issue. That's the point that I clean them out and try to get some fresh grease in them.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 5:47 pm
I’ve had the bike for a couple years, but it was fine before I swapped the stem. I haven’t really put many miles on the bike under 1k
Unfortunately, the Sprint headset bearings are pressed in, so for most of us it means a trip to the shop if they actually need to be replaced.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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Hello, I went with a pressed in module from bbinfinite worked out nice. Swork cranks and a cane creek preload adjuster.07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 3:40 pmI am looking at replacing my BB in my allez sprint and looking for recommendations at which one I should get. I have s-works cranks and stock praxis chainrings at the moment. Am I stuck with press fit bearings as my only option?
Last edited by tarmacslider on Fri May 17, 2019 3:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Looking at my sworks cranks on my allez and the sworks power crank on the wifes amira, Looks like the electronics would have plenty of room. The electronic is placed right after the bottom bracket and stay not out by the pedal on the arm.Kesselflicker wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 8:56 amHi guys,
does anyone use S-Works Powercranks on an Allez Sprint?
Is there enough room for the left crank arm on the chainstay?
Thanks for the information
Did you over tighten your stem cap screw?07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 4:36 pmI replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
I think he did. If he's only put 1000 miles on it in a couple years, then I'd hedge to say he's not too experienced. Especially if he's torquing the headset bolt - I've always done it by feel.Helmetbox wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2019 5:41 amDid you over tighten your stem cap screw?07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 4:36 pmI replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
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Really....I Tq everything on my bike to what it’s suppose to be at.Sock3t wrote:I think he did. If he's only put 1000 miles on it in a couple years, then I'd hedge to say he's not too experienced. Especially if he's torquing the headset bolt - I've always done it by feel.Helmetbox wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2019 5:41 amDid you over tighten your stem cap screw?07stuntin6r wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 4:36 pmI replaced my stem and just noticed that when I rotate my handlebars it is not as smooth as it was before. I believe it is the headset and I tq's the expander to spec and only did the top cap to 4-5nm. There is no play in between the frame, step or fork so I know it isn't loose. ideas?
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here's a quick link to check for top cap adjustment. You want just enough to preload the bearings and eliminate play, then make sure the stem is straight and tighten the stem clamp bolts (these will have a torque setting, usually 5-6N.m)
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... et-service
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... et-service
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