201x Specialized Allez Sprint DSW and Gen2
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Yes.. this was my impression as well when I looked closely at one.
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Does anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
I had the same issue on my Boardman - I changed from regular cable to Jagwire links and added 1 link in length. That solved my problem.estrin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:08 amDoes anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
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I hate to say this, but ditch the SRAM brakes and go w/ the Ultegra or Dura-Ace ones. I noticed a better brake response especially with wide rims (CLX 64). The force brakes I had and the Red brakes I've tried were not as good, and my shop has struggled to get the red ones to stay aligned as well. They have also been equiping bikes w/ the jagwire links to help it though. I love SRAM stuff, one Allez is 1x Force and the RHC is etap, but both have Ultegra brakes for these reasons.estrin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:08 amDoes anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
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My 56 full 6870 Di2, Without wheels, is at 6.6kg. That was with Fly12 & Fly6 cameras and a Garmin Edge 810 mounted, as well as a relatively heavy Brooks C15 saddle.
There are people on these forums that have done sub-7kg builds with wheels, I want to say in a 54 or 56.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'm guilty of comparing two different scales right now. I know I have several areas that aren't expensive to shed weight, so I'll look to those for now.IrrelevantD wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 2:36 am
My 56 full 6870 Di2, Without wheels, is at 6.6kg. That was with Fly12 & Fly6 cameras and a Garmin Edge 810 mounted, as well as a relatively heavy Brooks C15 saddle.
There are people on these forums that have done sub-7kg builds with wheels, I want to say in a 54 or 56.
I spent years training and racing on Ultegra brakes. Recently, I upgraded to Dura Ace 9000, which perform quite well. It put a smile on my face for short term, until I built another bike with Campagnolo skeleton brakes. $50 Potenza brakes put my Dura Ace to shame. Same wheels were used on 3 builds and same pads. Modulation is fantastic and they stop on a dime. Dry or wet, always Kool-Stop salmon pads. I tossed Dura Ace brake pads in garbage. Based on direct experience, I will never do another build with Shimano rim brakes.pyrahna wrote:I hate to say this, but ditch the SRAM brakes and go w/ the Ultegra or Dura-Ace ones. I noticed a better brake response especially with wide rims (CLX 64). The force brakes I had and the Red brakes I've tried were not as good, and my shop has struggled to get the red ones to stay aligned as well. They have also been equiping bikes w/ the jagwire links to help it though. I love SRAM stuff, one Allez is 1x Force and the RHC is etap, but both have Ultegra brakes for these reasons.estrin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:08 amDoes anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
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mpulsiv wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 8:07 amI spent years training and racing on Ultegra brakes. Recently, I upgraded to Dura Ace 9000, which perform quite well. It put a smile on my face for short term, until I built another bike with Campagnolo skeleton brakes. $50 Potenza brakes put my Dura Ace to shame. Same wheels were used on 3 builds and same pads. Modulation is fantastic and they stop on a dime. Dry or wet, always Kool-Stop salmon pads. I tossed Dura Ace brake pads in garbage. Based on direct experience, I will never do another build with Shimano rim brakes.pyrahna wrote:I hate to say this, but ditch the SRAM brakes and go w/ the Ultegra or Dura-Ace ones. I noticed a better brake response especially with wide rims (CLX 64). The force brakes I had and the Red brakes I've tried were not as good, and my shop has struggled to get the red ones to stay aligned as well. They have also been equiping bikes w/ the jagwire links to help it though. I love SRAM stuff, one Allez is 1x Force and the RHC is etap, but both have Ultegra brakes for these reasons.estrin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:08 amDoes anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
Can 58/6800 series Shimano brakes be used with the Sram 1x levers I have on an Allez Sprint?
I have 8000 series brakes on a Force 1x build and an Etap build. The pull ratio on the 6800 I think is the same, so I don't see why not.bikesrdangerousmmk wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:51 pmmpulsiv wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 8:07 amI spent years training and racing on Ultegra brakes. Recently, I upgraded to Dura Ace 9000, which perform quite well. It put a smile on my face for short term, until I built another bike with Campagnolo skeleton brakes. $50 Potenza brakes put my Dura Ace to shame. Same wheels were used on 3 builds and same pads. Modulation is fantastic and they stop on a dime. Dry or wet, always Kool-Stop salmon pads. I tossed Dura Ace brake pads in garbage. Based on direct experience, I will never do another build with Shimano rim brakes.pyrahna wrote:I hate to say this, but ditch the SRAM brakes and go w/ the Ultegra or Dura-Ace ones. I noticed a better brake response especially with wide rims (CLX 64). The force brakes I had and the Red brakes I've tried were not as good, and my shop has struggled to get the red ones to stay aligned as well. They have also been equiping bikes w/ the jagwire links to help it though. I love SRAM stuff, one Allez is 1x Force and the RHC is etap, but both have Ultegra brakes for these reasons.estrin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:08 amDoes anyone have any tips for centering SRAM Red Aerolink brake on the rear? My front one sets up just fine but the rear is having issues centering and retracting on the NDS. I've played with cable housing and cable tension but nothing seems to work. Any tips?
Can 58/6800 series Shimano brakes be used with the Sram 1x levers I have on an Allez Sprint?
campy uses much better brake pads. the ultimate rim brake caliper is the 9100. a little heavy. massive power/stiffness/modulation.
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2023 Tarmac SL7 Di2 9270
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ex 2018 Trek Madone SLR Disc
ex 2016 Giant TCRAdvanced Sl
ex 2012 Trek Madone7
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pyrahna wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 12:29 amThanks. The sram brake modulation and pads have been terrible on the same Hed wheels that used to stop reliably with 6800 brakes. I think I will have to try swapping to dual pivot brakes. Any pad preference?pyrahna wrote:
I have 8000 series brakes on a Force 1x build and an Etap build. The pull ratio on the 6800 I think is the same, so I don't see why not.
bikesrdangerousmmk wrote:Yes, dual pivot brakes will perform better. OEM pads are terrible across the board and modulation is the key from best to worse: Campagnolo -> Shimano -> SRAM.pyrahna wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 12:29 amThanks. The sram brake modulation and pads have been terrible on the same Hed wheels that used to stop reliably with 6800 brakes. I think I will have to try swapping to dual pivot brakes. Any pad preference?pyrahna wrote:
I have 8000 series brakes on a Force 1x build and an Etap build. The pull ratio on the 6800 I think is the same, so I don't see why not.
Toss OEM pads in garbage, they are harsh and made for longevity. Pick up Kool-Stop salmon pads, they perform very well in dry/wet. I have been using them for many years, rain or shine for training and racing.
www.jensonusa.com/Kool-Stop-Salmon-Road ... ad-Inserts
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com