Cannondale Slice RS question

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
bllx
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:54 pm

by bllx

I think I have seen that bike before ;)

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thencameyou
Posts: 303
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 11:27 am
Location: Nu Zild

by thencameyou

bllx wrote:I also have the battery in one of the extension. In the same extension I have a 4-port junction, connecting the shifter and battery. This junction is connected to a ew90 junction located between the extensions, right behind where I hold my hands. Another 4-port junction connects the ew90 to the other shifter and the single cable going into the frame.

Of course this limits what kind of extensions you can use, as they need to have a long enough straight section for the battery. Also, extensions have thicker walls, making it a tight fit. I have had success with Zipp carbon race and Zipp aluminum evo 70 and 110.

Going through the headset might work, but I'm not comfortable in the idea of needing to remove and reinstalling the bearings if/when something goes bad.

I would like to try the new bar-end junction in one of the extensions, but of what I have heard the outer diameter of that junction is larger than the inner diameter of typical extensions.


Hi Blix,
I'd be interested to know exactly what parts you required to build yours up this way. I am also running Evo 110 extensions.
Thanks a lot

bllx
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:54 pm

by bllx

I don't remember the lengths for the wires, but my current setup is roughly like this:
Right side:
1. Route the right shifter trough the extension, connect it to a sm-jc41.
2. Route a second wire through the same hole in the extension and connect it to the same sm-jc41. The wire should be about the same length as the extension.
3. Connect a short wire to the battery, and to the sm-jc41.
4. Insert the wires, the sm-jc41, and last the battery (connection part first), into the extension.

Left side:
5. Do 1. and 2. for the left shifter, an additional wire, and a second am-jc41.
6. Connect the wire from the frame to the second sm-jc41.
7. Insert everything into the extension.

Junction box:
8. Strap the junction box (sm-ew90) to the right extension somewhere forward of the cable hole.
9. Connect the wires from the extensions to the junction box.
10. Tape everything down.

So you need (in addition to shifters and a complete di2 setup "downstream")
- 1 sm-ew90
- 2 sm-jc41
- 2 medium length wires
- 1 short wire
- 1 internal battery

An alternative is to have the sm-ew90 near the end of an extension, route one shifter+battery to a sm-jc41, and from the sm-jc41 run a wire next to the battery (will be a very tight fit, doesn't work with all extensions) to the sm-ew90. From the other extension you just then need to route the shifter wire to the sm-ew90. You can do this under the cable-routing cap together with the wire from the frame.

NiFTY
Posts: 1093
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

Another question about steerer lock limits. When I turn my bars the lock is limited by the brake cable coming into the headset. This twists the plastic T and puts a lot of force on the top cap and hence the tiny bolts holding it in place. Anyone got any solutions to this problem? I would prefer the bump to be frame onto fork maybe with a rubber stop like a tm01.
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bllx
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:54 pm

by bllx

p3eriksson wrote:
bllx wrote:
p3eriksson wrote:On the second try I stuck it beneath the saddle which was a great solution. Drilled a hole for the cable to go through the seat post.


Can you give more details about the drilling and the routing down the seat tube?


I drilled from the top down through the seat post head, only a small hole big enough for the cable, then cut and spliced the cable. I think the best way to show is with pictures.



How did you route the cable from the seat post to the bottom bracket? I tried to use a mechanical shifter cable as guide, and first managed to get it from the seat post hole and to downtube bottom bracket opening (were the junction box goes), but did not manage to pull the di2 cable through the last bend. I then tried going from the bottom bracket, through the hole for the front shifter di2 cable, and it was much easier to get the di2 cable to the seat post opening.

For the seat post, I found that I could route the cable through the opening for the angle-adjust bolt. Thus I did not need to drill the post. It is a bit thight, but the cable can be moved back/forth, so it is not squeezed. Might not work with all sadle clamp angles though.

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